I finally got around to building another big smoker for a friend of mine. This one started life as a commercial fridge. It has 2.5 inch thick insulated walls and a 4 inch thick insulated top. We decided we would leave the glass in the door and see how it fairs. It's a thermal pane with tempered glass and so far so good. The element is a 3000 watt 220 volt oven element. We wired this one up the same as my other big smoker with a separate controller & contactor which operates as a high limit safety because this smoker is also going into a heated garage. Anyway, here's some pictures....
The first couple of pictures are when it first came to life.... It's like having a new baby! :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v158/mmike/Fishing%20Photos/GregsSmoker1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v158/mmike/Fishing%20Photos/GregsSmoker2.jpg)
I used a little different style of vent on this one. It's a 4 inch pipe with a butterfly plate in it. Once the smoker is in it's new home it will be under a 250 cfm range hood spaced about 1 inch above the vent.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v158/mmike/Fishing%20Photos/GregsSmoker3.jpg)
This shows the deflector shields I installed to deflect any grease drips into the pans that are foiled lined. Makes for easy quick clean up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v158/mmike/Fishing%20Photos/GregsSmoker4.jpg)
This shows the control panel. Temps aren't the same because this was taken just after we fired it up for the first time. We've got it dialled in now.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v158/mmike/Fishing%20Photos/GregsSmoker5.jpg)
This is the wiring diagram I did up for my other smoker. This one is exactly the same except there isn't a blower in it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v158/mmike/Fishing%20Photos/220diagramcopy.jpg)
Mike
Geez I need to get mine going.
That is just Top Notch!
Great job Mike.
Bet you have a happy friend.
Wow! Great job!
Fantastic. Nice job. That has everything except a convection fan.
Thanks guys, It just left for it's permanent home this morning. He's going to get it all set up this weekend and run a batch of sausage through it next weekend for it's first smoke.
Mike
As usual Mike, very nice work! That looks great. I really like the idea of the glass in the door, I hope it holds up. I wonder if it will get a thick film of smoke on the inside to where you can't see in it.
SIA
SIA
My money is it will get a pretty good film of smoke on it. I didn't have it vented in my garage so I only ran an hour of smoke through it before I sent it home but it already had a light coat on it. I'm sure a guy could clean it though. Should be interesting being able to watch the smoke though. I'm thinkin' that's going to be an arm chair, beer drinkin' sport! ::) :D
Mike
What temps do you feel like this smoker will obtain with the 3000 watt element?
Quote from: Mr Walleye on May 22, 2010, 03:07:39 PM
SIA
My money is it will get a pretty god film of smoke on it. I didn't have it vented in my garage so I only ran an hour of smoke through it before I sent it home but it already had a light coat on it. I'm sure a guy could clean it though. Should be interesting being able to watch the smoke though. I'm thinkin' that's going to be an arm chair, beer drinkin' sport! ::) :D
Mike
Yeah I think I would have to get a couch out there if I had a window in mine. That would be interesting to watch the smoke. I would think if he wiped it after every smoke it will be fine. Either way its still an awesome smoker. ;D
SIA
CRG
It was about 12 to 15 minutes to go from room temp to 200 degrees. I also had it as high as 300 degrees. The PID that controls the element is a programmable and I have programmed all 30 steps to try to take in all smoking applications. I'll try to remember to post my programing sheet that I made up. Each muti step sequence has a final shut down command as well. It's hard to describe with out looking at the program sheet. I'll send myself an email to work so I remember to post it. ::)
Mike
That thing is sweet!
That's one kicking smoker.
Nice job Mike!
Well done Mike!!
WOWSERS
Mike thats a nice smoker you built. Your friend is a happy camper i bet ;D
Mike, I think you have driven me to get off my lazy A$$ and get things going.
I know it is a pain to post pics, but if you have anymore of the building process
I would appreciate seeing them.
CRG
I don't have any more pictures of this one but the heating element and drip pan setup are more or less the same as mine are.
I have no problem helping you out anyway I can.
Are you still planing on using "Future Smoker #3" ?
How did you make out with the existing element?
Are you going to go 220v?
Mike
CRG
I see the foot print of the interior of yours is 21 x 26 which will work very well using 2 half sheet pans in the bottom. This is the same setup as mine and this one that I just built. This one that I just built is a little wider and is why I built the drip shields. A half sheet pan is 18 x 13, so by using 2 of them they are 18 x 26. Your interior measurements would work well with just a small drip shield on each side.
Anyway, I can explain the complete element setup if you would like.
Mike
Thanks Mike.
Yes F S #3 is the one.
I just took two 1/2 sheet and you are correct.
Roughly 2" on each side and 1" on each end with the trays centered.
I started testing the element and something more important came up and haven't gotten back to that.
I WILL do that this week.
I also have a 1250 watt 110 element I could add to the back If 110 is the way to go.
I not only want to do Sausage in it but more important I want to do large loads of Brisket and Butts and ribs.
I know I won't be able to built a PID for it so If that happens I will hire an electrician.
CRG
What wattage is the existing element in the cabinet?
I'm kinda partial to using a 220 oven element for a couple of reasons. They are readily available, inexpensive, and at 3000 watts they have the power for large loads. You can still run 110 providing you have 2 separate circuits, similar to my original setup.
You really wouldn't have any problem putting a PID together. They're really not that difficult once you get into them and we can certainly help you out here on the forum.
Mike
Quote from: Mr Walleye on May 23, 2010, 03:11:46 PM
CRG
What wattage is the existing element in the cabinet?
I'm kinda partial to using a 220 oven element for a couple of reasons. They are readily available, inexpensive, and at 3000 watts they have the power for large loads. You can still run 110 providing you have 2 separate circuits, similar to my original setup.
You really wouldn't have any problem putting a PID together. They're really not that difficult once you get into them and we can certainly help you out here on the forum.
Mike
Mike I am not sure the Wattage of element there now. Is they some way of finding that out bu testing it?
I am almost 60 and I want to do what is the "Best" this time cause it will probably be my last time.
If 220 is the "Best" way to go, that is what I want to do.
Problems putting a PID together! ;D ;D I'm the guy that trys to put a square peg in a round hole.
Can I use my generator from my OBS or Digital or should I get it's own gen?
There's no reason one of your SGs can't pull double duty. You will need to get the adapter plate though. I forgot you have a 6 rack DBS as well as an OBS.
Mike
ManXman sent me his adaptor plate and I have a cold smoke adaptor.
Hello, I just received a (true) brand commercial freezer. It has a ss outside and what appears to be a aluminum inside that is painted white. In this build it appears your freezer has the same inside. Did you leave it alone, and if so did it work/hold up good. Thanks, Dan
Hi Dan and welcome to the forum
This unit has a stainless steel interior that was painted white. It was tougher than nails to cut holes for the generator and the vent.
The original one I built was all aluminium inside and out. It was much easier to work with. I didn't do anything with the interior and to date it has functioned perfectly.
Incidentally, the interior of the Bradley OBS is aluminium as well. The DBS is stainless.
Mike
Thank You very much. I need to get a thread started and introduce myself/post a few pics of my project.
That is one great looking smoker. I like the tempered Glass door, you can see whats going on without opening the door.
Quote from: Mr Walleye on May 22, 2010, 03:18:13 PM
CRG
It was about 12 to 15 minutes to go from room temp to 200 degrees. I also had it as high as 300 degrees. The PID that controls the element is a programmable and I have programmed all 30 steps to try to take in all smoking applications. I'll try to remember to post my programing sheet that I made up. Each muti step sequence has a final shut down command as well. It's hard to describe with out looking at the program sheet. I'll send myself an email to work so I remember to post it. ::)
Mike
I'd be interested to see just how you can program that PID, I'd like to build a different one you can program in steps ;) ramp up ramp down etc, is this similar to that? Also can it be wired for 120 VAC input?
Hi Carnie
You can use the programable pid (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=4&zenid=818ecaf8a7b8fb98fe75db04f00fcfba) to control either a 110v or 220 v circuit.
I must have totally forgot to post my the programing sheet I made up for this. I just bought a new laptop here at home and for some reason I can't find the file. I know I have it at my office and when I get there on Monday I'll post it here or even send you an email with it. There's 30 steps you can program including pause or stop commands. I could explain how it works but it would be a lot easier if you were looking at the programing sheet I made up.
Mike
Looks good, thanks for the info , will definitely be a future project for me as my Digi Q went a little wacky the other day and had to revert to my PID which is just Basic
Carnie
I had to run down to the office today so I emailed the files to myself at home while I was there. Shoot me your email address and I will email you the MS Word document I made.
I trying to figure out a way to convert it to a jpeg file so I can post it.
Mike
Quote from: Mr Walleye on March 27, 2011, 12:25:53 PM
Carnie
I had to run down to the office today so I emailed the files to myself at home while I was there. Shoot me your email address and I will email you the MS Word document I made.
I trying to figure out a way to convert it to a jpeg file so I can post it.
Mike
Try this firsthttp://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080801054403AAWxdnm (http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080801054403AAWxdnm) I sent PM with email too
Thanks Tony, I'll give that a shot. I also sent it to you via email.
Mike
Tony (Carnie1) converted my word document into an image file so I could post it here.
I don't know why it didn't seem to want to work for me but Tony had it cased anyway.
Thanks again Tony.
So here are the 30 program steps that I use on my pid that I have built into my big smoker. The times and temps could be changed to anything. This just happens to be the numbers that I used.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v158/mmike/Fishing%20Photos/Capture1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v158/mmike/Fishing%20Photos/Capture2.jpg)
Mike
Thanks for sharing that mike!!! ;D
No problem Paul. It really can be programmed a lot of different ways for sure.
Mike
Quote from: carnie1 on March 30, 2011, 12:23:29 PM
Quote from: Mr Walleye on March 27, 2011, 12:25:53 PM
Carnie
I had to run down to the office today so I emailed the files to myself at home while I was there. Shoot me your email address and I will email you the MS Word document I made.
I trying to figure out a way to convert it to a jpeg file so I can post it.
Mike
Try this firsthttp://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080801054403AAWxdnm (http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080801054403AAWxdnm) I sent PM with email too
Thanks Tony
I had been trying to find a way to post a document and you answered my problem.
KC
Just wanted to say thanks to various posters and share my efforts. Although I've been lurking all the threads for several years Mr Walleye's is the closest to the subject which is a Bradley smoke generator in a homemade smoker with PID control. Pretty much the same idea as he layed out, Auber SYL-2352 and SYL-1512 PID's. I've played around with this concept for years and couldn't come up with a better design. About the only new thing I added is run the Bradley through the SYL-2352's auxiliary alarm contacts so you can start and stop the smoke generator as part of the program.
Only advice I have to others is go ahead and do the extra effort to set it up for 240 volt, gives you lots more options. The PID's are just fine with that and it lets you use standard stove parts for your heating elements. I just have a single 8" cooktop element which heats up 36"x36"x72" smoker real easy at about 11 amps.
I'll post some pictures as soon as I figure this out since it appears I need a hosting site for images this board?
Thanks and good smoking,
Robert..............
Hi Robert and welcome to the forum.
You do have to have a host for your pictures. I use photobucket but there are several others that work fine. I look forward to having a look at your setup.
Here's a write up on posting pictures.
http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?488-Answers-To-Bradley-Smoker-FAQ-s&p=768#post768
Mike
Thanks for the info Mike, here are some photos:
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h438/weedenb/P1010011.jpg)
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h438/weedenb/P1010010.jpg)
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h438/weedenb/P1010009.jpg)
And of course the Kummok Salmon test:
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h438/weedenb/P1010007.jpg)
Robert................
Nice project Weed, sweet smoker.
Great looking smoker Robert!
Oh... and the Kummok Salmon doesn't look to shabby either! Nice job! ;)
Mike
Thats a super looking smoker and looks well planned out :o
Thanks everyone for the complements, too busy lately to reply, the spring kings are running!
Just looking for some more opinions if anyone has any.
Smoker is working great for its primary purpose as a salmon smoker, with the PID's I can load it up in the morning push a button and everything turns out great. I was experimenting today with some other stuff and was wondering if anyone has any comments. Did some loin bacon and cranked it up to 200F which worked just fine, curious if anyone has done a wood chambered smoker much above this? I have the whole thing insulated with +2in and a tight fitting door so it came right up to temp and held it with no problems (~ 1 degree/minute on the ramp). Alot of the recipes I've read for various cured meats have 225F listed as the smoking temp, is this something I should shoot for or is my 200F with very good time and temp control okay? I'm not looking for smoke cooking as I have several grills on the front deck which will do this just fine but some recipes are in the middle? Basic question is who has done a wood chambered smoker above 200F and what was the result? I have a 2 - PID setup rigged in fail safe mode so everything will shutoff at the set high temp.
Some photo's :
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h438/weedenb/P1010006800x600.jpg)
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h438/weedenb/P1010004800x600.jpg)
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h438/weedenb/P1010008800x600.jpg)
Thanks,
Robert............
I was looking at the way this fellow did it, and it looks like he is having no trouble.
http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/forum/thread/86302/my-insulated-plywood-propane-smoker (http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/forum/thread/86302/my-insulated-plywood-propane-smoker)
I can't help you with the maximum temperature your cabinet can safely reach. But as to your question on what temperature you should smoke at, actually the temperature ranged for hot smoking cured meat is 100°F - 180°F. Some sources will state the upper range is 200°F. Once you get over 200°F that is considered barbecuing temperatures; which we us use to smoke/cook most of our foods in the Bradley. I will use 225°F when I am smoking/cooking lean cured meats and poultry, but for bellies, fish, sausage etc I will keep the cabinet temperature below 180°F.
Thanks for the response guys, as far as the smoking temps go I'm doing 140F as my target during the smoke period. After that I'm just trying to get the finish temp as the various recipe's recommend. For the salmon I'm doing 175F until the IT hits ~150F which only takes about an hour past the smoke time. Most of the cured pork and beef recipes seem to be good with this but I'm wondering about the poultry as it seems they usually want a faster/higher finish temp? My loin bacon turned out very good at an IT of 145F running 200F in the smoker to finish it. I think I have a handle on the smoke temps just wondering about how long I should take to get to the finish IT for various meats?
Thanks,
Robert............
Just getting started with my project but hope for some direction. Have a 4 door stainless steel commercial frig used propane heat and put pan of wood on top of burner (lots of guesswork).Want to change to electric with the pid controllers. Some of these projects look AWESOME. I want to do it right the first time.My smoker is on a trailer I had built. Smoker size 48 in 24in 48 in tall. Planning on using a 220 volt 3000 watt element. Just got my smoke generator today. Have not ordered any controls yet. Is there any changes I should know about or is the schematic on the one you built for your freind the way to go? Cant wait to get SMOKN! Thanks for any input. Ramrod
Hi RamRod and welcome to the forum.
This setup has been working flawlessly since it was built. It did take me a little bit of time to get it dialed in but once I did it runs very well. I'm assuming that your measurements are the interior. If so it is slightly larger cubic inches than mine. I would think the 3000 watt element would be good. You didn't mention if the cabinet is insulated and if so with what.
If I was doing it again I wouldn't change much on the wiring schematic. The main reason I used the second controller as a high limit safety switch is because I have mine built into a heated garage. This way if there is a fire or electronic failure the system will shut it down when it hits the high temp limit that I have set. You may, or may not want the extra expense on a trailer mounted unit. Just make sure you have one common ground for everything. This was a problem (ground loop) I ran into on one of mine and it took a lot of trouble shooting to figure it out.
I would try to locate the element centrally on the floor in the cabinet, making sure you have some form of drip pans for the grease.
When I built this one for my friend I didn't use a circulation fan and it functions just fine with out it. I would build it without initially and try it, but in your planning stage have a backup plan in case you find you need to add one.
One other thought I had for an outdoor trailer mounted rig using the Bradley smoke generator you may want to give some consideration to protecting you smoker generator and the controls from the inevitable rain.
If I can think of anything else I'll let you know. Make sure you keep us posted on how you progress with it.
Mike
Thanks Mike for the quick response. Yes those are inside dimisions and yes it is insulated. I had to take insulation out of 4 doors tho since they swelled from heat. But i am working on getting a guy to put stainless plate on doors and reinsulate with a different material. I am going to use the second controller even tho it is outside (it is still a good idea) I noticed the common grnd so thks for informing me on that. Am going to leave provisons for a fan. I had one on before, it was necessary when I used Propane. I am planning on using plugs on cords, so I can take off easily take off when not in use so weather should not be a problem. I talked to Auber and asked if they thought I could use a generator to run it when away from home, they thought it would be ok on the PID. What do you think? The input voltage seemed to have a big variance on the PID. Thanks for any input.
Ramrod
If it was me I would try running it on a generator. I don't see a problem with that. I would make sure you fuse your PIDs to help protect them.
I look for wanrd to seeing things as they progress.
Good luck
Mike
Mr. Walleye thanks for help so far. What size fuses do you suggest for the controllers? The 1512 and 2352. Tks ramrod
Hi Ramrod
1 amp slow blow fuse is what they recommend and what I've been using.
How are things coming along?
Mike
thanks Mike for info on fuse. Found a weaterproof box to use and am starting on it. Need to order fuseholder/fuses and I have everything I need. Will get some pix together when I get further. Tried smoke generator and smoked well but a lot of smoke came back out through the generator. Gotta figure that out, but goin GOOD. Ramrod
Ramrod make sure you have enough vent in the top. If not it will back the smoke threw the SG and that will cause trouble with it gumming up.
Ramrod
Like Quarlow said you do need enough vent to create the draft. I've found a 4" vent in the top with a butterfly in it works good. On the big smoker, while it's running, if you open the door then close it the compression will briefly push smoke back out the generator but it quickly corrects itself. It might last 2 or 3 seconds or something like that.
Mike
I'm sorry i'm getting in late on this, but I want to replace my smoker with a something new. What is the difference between the "PID" & the "Controller"?
Quote from: Sheriff Smitty on November 04, 2011, 01:22:51 PM
I'm sorry i'm getting in late on this, but I want to replace my smoker with a something new. What is the difference between the "PID" & the "Controller"?
Smitty
I'm not sure if you are referring to this particular smoker that I built or not. Certainly if you are, if you look at page one of this thread, the 5th photo down shows the 2 separate PID controllers that I used in this project. The larger of the two, the one on the top, controls the heating element in the smoker.
The smaller one, the one on the bottom, acts as a high limit shut off in case there is a fire or if there is a failure in one of the componets that control the heating. It controls a contactor, if the temp in the cabinet exceeds the set temp on this controller, the contactor will shut off power to the cabinet.
In this writeup, I used the word "PID" and "controller" interchangeably.
Mike
Looks good. ;D
Where did you come up with the cabinet for your controllers? I have been looking for something like that to mount to the side of the smoker that I've been building.
300saum
I used an electrical enclosure like this one...
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WIEGMANN-Enclosure-With-Screw-Cover-4KP28?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1
Although the one I used was 12 x 12 and 4 inches deep. They come in many different sizes. I simply cut out the end where the face plate is mounted, leaving tabs in the corners large enough to screw on the aluminum face plate that I made.
Mike
Thanks Mike for the info. Do you think there is a need for a cabinet heater when you are in the winter? I would like to have a place to smoke out of the cold in the future, but for now I will have to do the smoking in the cold.
Quote from: 300saum on November 23, 2011, 08:25:41 AM
Thanks Mike for the info. Do you think there is a need for a cabinet heater when you are in the winter? I would like to have a place to smoke out of the cold in the future, but for now I will have to do the smoking in the cold.
Sam
That's a very good question. To my knowledge I don't think it's an issue, sort of....
I do know if it's real cold I have heard of people having to hold the Thermocouple in the finger tips to warm it up before the PID will cut the heater in. As I recall it has something to do with the PID thinking there is something wrong because the PV is below the lowest display reading of the PID.
Here is some info which originated from Auber Instruments....
Operating the controller when ambient temperature is below 32 °F (0 °C). The controller reading is only accurate for temperature ≥ 32 °F (0 °C ). In addition, if the ambient temperature is below 14 °F (-10 °C), the controller will not function because it can't read the temperature correctly. In that case, user can warm the sensor by holding it with their hands. Once the sensor is above 14 °F (-10 °C), it will turn on the heater. Once the inside of the smoker is heated to above 32 F, the controller will run by itself.
Mike
Thanks for the info Mike. I will hold off on the heater, I will keep it in the garage and wheel it out when I'm going to use it.
I was also wondering about my Auber operating do's and don'ts? My SYL-2352 died on me when starting some of my winter salmon projects.
Fish thread http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=25948.0
Fortunately my SYL-1512 is taking over just fine. I know I've abused my controllers over the last few years by just leaving them outside all the time but no problem until now? It was a little cool (34F) but nothing extreme, I've worked them below zero and they do see as much as -20F over the winter.
My Bradley SG doesn't seem to care but I'm thinking I should probably remove the controllers and Bradley and put them in the shop when not in use. The Bradley is easy to unplug and pull, guess I'll have to order some thermocouple sockets also when I replace my 2352. Those and a plug/socket for the heating element will make it easy to pull the controller box.
Cheers!
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h438/weedenb/PID2.jpg)
Weedenb
Sorry to hear you lost a controller. On the positive side that's part of the reason to run the extra controller as a high limit safety, depending on how it fails.
On my setup it's in my heated garage so it's not exposed to the elements really. I do have another controller on a Treager that sits outside (Canada = Brrrrr) and to date I haven't had any problems at all.
Do you keep your smoker or controllers covered outside? I wonder if it's possible that it got some moisture in it.
Mike
Thanks for the info Mike,
I do have a little shed roof over my control box and there is no direct water entry but but we're always at 100% humidity and +/- freezing temps so that could have been part of the problem. Good little PID's and I'll definitely get another one coming as I'm really spoiled with hitting the button and forgetting about things :)
Hi Mr walleye
I am a newbie to the forum trying to figure this stuff out. I see the smoker you built for your friend, and i build one similar to it, less the electronics. i do like the idea though. I'm going from 110v 2000w to 220v 38OOw, and trying to build the controll panel. I am confused on why you have two temp control in it? The temp controller I'm using is a west 8100 it has 3 outputs in it. Another words it can control 3 things as i was told. I do understand the rest of your wiring diagram. Can you give me any direction, i would appreciate it. Thanks
Chris
Quote from: Mr Grillmaster on January 16, 2012, 07:46:22 AM
Hi Mr walleye
I am a newbie to the forum trying to figure this stuff out. I see the smoker you built for your friend, and i build one similar to it, less the electronics. i do like the idea though. I'm going from 110v 2000w to 220v 38OOw, and trying to build the controll panel. I am confused on why you have two temp control in it? The temp controller I'm using is a west 8100 it has 3 outputs in it. Another words it can control 3 things as i was told. I do understand the rest of your wiring diagram. Can you give me any direction, i would appreciate it. Thanks
Chris
Hi Chris
The main reason for the secondary controller is to act as a high limit safety should something go wrong. Basically, the 1512 controller simply monitors the cabinet temperature and if the temp rises beyond your setting it will kill the power to the rest of the system. As an example, you can have a SSR fair in the closed position, a thermocouple failure, or the main PID fail which could cause the element to run full throttle. If something like this happened the secondary controller would sense the high temp and shut down the power to the elements. I have my smoker installed in a heated detached garage and safety was the major consideration for this.
I hope that made sense. :D
Mike
Mike
That does make sense to me, I wouldn't of thought of that that's is a great idea. So i believe the controller I'm going to use has 3 outputs and i can set a high limit on that as well as controlling temp. Like a said before if there is anything you would share on your projects ( do's and don,ts ) that would be great. Thanks for quick response
Chris
Quote from: Mr Grillmaster on January 16, 2012, 05:40:46 PM
Mike
That does make sense to me, I wouldn't of thought of that that's is a great idea. So i believe the controller I'm going to use has 3 outputs and i can set a high limit on that as well as controlling temp. Like a said before if there is anything you would share on your projects ( do's and don,ts ) that would be great. Thanks for quick response
Chris
Chris
I'm not familiar with the controller you are using. If you use the same controller for controlling the element and to act as a high limit safety, you could have a problem if the main controller failed with the element engaged. When I setup the 1512 as a high limit I worked with Suyi from Auber Instruments. He indicated that all the commercial equipment ran a separate equipment for a high limit safety to cover all the bases. I think the 1512, thermcoupler and contactor were worth about $60 so they are not that expensive.
Mike
Hi mike
i under stand i see your pointfail safe. What size and part number did you use for the contactor. Chris
Quote from: Mr Grillmaster on January 16, 2012, 07:02:56 PM
Hi mike
i under stand i see your pointfail safe. What size and part number did you use for the contactor. Chris
Chris
I used the 40 amp contactor with the 120 volt coil but you could use the 40 amp one with the 240 volt coil as well.
Here's a link to the one I used...
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=130
Mike
Mike
Thanks i,I've ordered the stuff i need to build this electronic cabinet. I'm getting ready to put the thermocouples in the smoker, where would it be best to install the two thermocouples top, middle, or bottom? I got the smoker oven k type tc-k3mm thermocouples. Chris
Hi Mike
Things are starting to look good. I just ordered the eletrical encloser. Istill need to get those two fuse holders the ones on the face of the encloser do you have the fuse amp size? Also would you have the size of the one one the 220v holder? I'm trying to get some pictures up soon. Thanks Chris
Sorry for the late response Chris, been up to my you know what so I haven't been around the forum for a few days.
I have played with the thermocoupler placement some. What I have settled on in the larger smoker is a placement on the back wall, about midway up in the load area, and spaced away from the wall at least an inch so the radiant heat from the wall does not influence the temps.
The cabinet mount fuse holders are to protect the PIDs. What they recommend is a 1 amp slow blow fuse for them.
For the 220v fuse you will just need to calculate what your load will be. For an example I think you said you were using a 3800 watt 220v element. 3800/220=13.63 amps. You would have to allow for anything else you are using on the circuit such as a smoke generator, etc. I would think you would be fine using a 20 amp fuse in it though.
Mike
Hi Mike
just wanted to say thanks again for your help on my project. Im trying to put some pictures up. I did get the panel box built. Ill get pics up soon. Chris
Looking forward to having a look Chris.
Mike
Mike here are some pictures let me know if you can view them i don't know how to post them like you did.
Chris
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/513/20120129132644.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/62/201201291341591.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/692/20120207194517.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/252/20120211174505.jpg/
Looking really good Chris! 8)
Your doing a fantastic Job! Your Control box is awesome!
Here;s a link to get ya hooked up on putting links of pictures in your posts.
http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?488-Answers-To-Bradley-Smoker-FAQ-s&p=768#post768
(http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/3126/201201291341591.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/62/201201291341591.jpg/)
(http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/1667/20120129132644.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/513/20120129132644.jpg/)
(http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/2571/20120207194517.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/692/20120207194517.jpg/)
(http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/9250/20120211174505.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/252/20120211174505.jpg/)
Your smoker is looking good Chris! I really like the control box also.
Thank mike for putting my pictures on forum it make a different when you see pictures. I added a few things to the electrical cabinet like a 110v outlet and the other cut out is going to be a syl1512 meat thermomit er. I also added the flange inlets so i can remove the panel when not in use. I cant wait to fire this bad boy up. Chris
Chris
You will have to give us a full report when you get that baby firing on all cylinders. ;)
Real nice job! 8)
Mike
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o585/elipoppin/Smoker1.jpg)
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o585/elipoppin/Smoker2.jpg)
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o585/elipoppin/smoker3.jpg)
Working on my first big smoker. Straight off the mill 2" thick cedar slabs. Waiting on electrical parts, pid, relays, etc to finish things up in the burner department. I am planning on gutting an old stove for the burners, sockets, etc. Need some advice on a few things. The biggest argument right now is adding a chimney or just adding some slotted vents on the roof of the smoker. I am thinking a short stack with damper is the way to go to get the best draft. We want to be able to rock some high temps so the argument is the damper will not close up enough to seal the heat in??
After looking at peoples pid setups I have decided to go with a TET612 controller and two relays so I will be switch both hot legs to the burners for safety. It looks like lots of people are only switching one leg of power. Any advice on welding up the burner stand?
Quote from: VashonSmoke on March 14, 2012, 02:55:33 PM
(https://www.me.com/ro/lairdgonter/Galleries/100165/IMG_0448/web.jpg?ver=13317609550001)
(https://www.me.com/ro/lairdgonter/Galleries/100165/IMG_0428/web.jpg?ver=13315897170001)
(https://www.me.com/ro/lairdgonter/Galleries/100165/IMG_0421/web.jpg?ver=13315896890001)
Working on my first big smoker. Straight off the mill 2" thick cedar slabs. Waiting on electrical parts, pid, relays, etc to finish things up in the burner department. I am planning on gutting an old stove for the burners, sockets, etc. Need some advice on a few things. The biggest argument right now is adding a chimney or just adding some slotted vents on the roof of the smoker. I am thinking a short stack with damper is the way to go to get the best draft. We want to be able to rock some high temps so the argument is the damper will not close up enough to seal the heat in??
After looking at peoples pid setups I have decided to go with a TET612 controller and two relays so I will be switch both hot legs to the burners for safety. It looks like lots of people are only switching one leg of power. Any advice on welding up the burner stand?
Hi VashonSmoke and welcome to the forum.
I can't see your pictures for some reason and when I tried to go to their URL I get a "not authorized".
To comment on your questions I would use a short stack with a damper in it. Your right in the fact the damper will never totally close off the stack but I don't think you ever want to close it off anyway. Even when not running smoke in the cabinet you need a certain amount of air flow or you will end up trapping moisture in the cabinet which can cause temperature problems as well.
Your also correct in that most people are only switching one leg of the 220 with the SSR. If you look at my wiring schematic for mine you will see I have both legs running through a contactor which is controlled by an Auber 1512 PID that operates as a high limit safety. After the contactor, one of the legs is switched by the SSR.
Here's the wiring diagram.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v158/mmike/Fishing%20Photos/220diagramcopy.jpg)
Would love to see your pictures of your project if you can get them posted.
Also, keep us up to date on your build.
Mike
I think my pictures should be working now. I like the idea of the "main" contactor especially if it was hooked up so internal meat temp would trip it. It just seems if one leg was still hot to the coil it could cause a safety issue. I just picture firing the thing up, remembering the chip bowl was on the burner, putting a foot in a bucket of water before grabbing it and them pazowo.
For some reason I still don't see your pictures. Not sure why.
In my setup there is no power (either leg) going past the contactor until you manually fire up the 1512 with the toggle switch, then you hold down the set button on the 1512 to fire the contactor. This turns on everything else. There's no power on either leg until you turn it on.
You definitely can control a contactor with a controller using a meat temp probe to dictate when to shut down the system.
Mike
Mike...Your schematic looks great! I picked up an outdoor breaker panel today I am going to use both for breakers and to stuff all the extra goodies into. I plan on a nice chunk of SO cord with a 50amp welder plug attached to I can plug it into one of the existing recepts in the shop.
I am thinking of scrapping an old stove top for burners, knobs, and sockets. I plan on welding something up to hold them but have not quite nailed that down yet. I saw a nice diamond plated one on here that looks like what I need but I am wondering about making sure the burners are isolated from the metal base holding them?? I also plan on doing a little sheet metal wrap for the bottom of the smoker so I don't set it on fire.
Lookin' good!
For some reason the pictures show up now. go figure.
I would definitely put some protection for the wood in from the element for safety.
Mike
vashonsmoke
Well come to the forum. Your wood smoker looks great.
chris
Hi Mike
My smoker is just about done I,m setting up the profile in the syl2352p. But, when I,m running the system to test it the controler 2352p and the 1512a temps are different from each other. i mean there are close. I,ve set the offsets with ice water. How close should they be within each other?
Chris
Quote from: Mr Grillmaster on March 18, 2012, 06:38:50 AM
Hi Mike
My smoker is just about done I,m setting up the profile in the syl2352p. But, when I,m running the system to test it the controller 2352p and the 1512a temps are different from each other. i mean there are close. I've set the offsets with ice water. How close should they be within each other?
Chris
To me the most important thing is that the temp in the cabinet is the temp shown on the 2352. Certainly doing the ice water calibration is a good way but probably the boil water method is more accurate. The other thing is, like me, you may have mounted your probes, say, in the back of the cabinet mid way up. When you run the smoker and measure the temps more in the centre of the cabinet with another temp probe you may some difference. You can use the offset to make the 2352 read the actual temp.
Because the 1512 is being used only as a high limit the displayed temp being off a couple of degrees in relationship to the 2352 really doesn't matter. However I have adjusted my 1512 over time to read the same. I just keep an eye on it and if it's out by a couple degrees I will adjust it.
Again, I think the most important thing is you adjust the 2352 to display what the meat is seeing for temps. Then over time you can adjust the 1512 to display the same temp as the 2352, although there will always seem to be 1 or 2 degrees difference at times.
Mike
Mike
I did what you are saying I've adjusted the 1512 to the 2352 I was doing a temp over time check yesterday. i wanted to see how long it took for the smoker to get to 300 deg. and adjusted the 1512 offset several times. So i guess the thing to do is lets get smokin need to do a test run. I also added another 1512 as a meat thermometer. Ill give you an update. Thanks for the help. Chris
Mike
I have started up my smoker last weekend, I smoked two 8lb pork putts. they came out very good, but i have had some problems with the temperature controller 1512 (meat thermometer) was about 20deg less than a manual thermometer. I think i just need to fine tune it. The controller that controls cabinet worked great, also the 4" vent worked well no smoke through the smoke generator. putting the 3800 watt heater gets my smoker up to temp and mantains good temp.If you have any advice on the 1512 controller setting the offset, I'm about -20 offset i should be about -5 :)
Chris
The cedar smoker is mostly complete now. We did our first run of bacon last night and it turned out tasty but salty. When they say rinse, rinse, and rinse some more they aren't kidding. Got a 6/4 SO cord running to the sub panel, 30amp 2pole breaker for burners, 2 20amp breakers for Bradley generator and extra power. Not only built a smoker but works as a nice power distro as well. Now the talk is if we should build another this size or go a little smaller. Still have some cedar to cut up!
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o585/elipoppin/IMG_0496.jpg)
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o585/elipoppin/IMG_0497.jpg)
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o585/elipoppin/IMG_0492.jpg)
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o585/elipoppin/IMG_0494.jpg)
(http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o585/elipoppin/IMG_0495.jpg)
Quote from: Mr Grillmaster on April 01, 2012, 10:29:21 AM
Mike
I have started up my smoker last weekend, I smoked two 8lb pork putts. they came out very good, but i have had some problems with the temperature controller 1512 (meat thermometer) was about 20deg less than a manual thermometer. I think i just need to fine tune it. The controller that controls cabinet worked great, also the 4" vent worked well no smoke through the smoke generator. putting the 3800 watt heater gets my smoker up to temp and mantains good temp.If you have any advice on the 1512 controller setting the offset, I'm about -20 offset i should be about -5 :)
Chris
Chris
I have never used the 1512 as a meat thermometer but no reason why you can't. Seems odd that it's off that much. I would check to make sure you have the correct TC programmed into the controller. As well I would do a boil water test with the probe to see what it reads. Are you using a K type TC?
Mike
Lookin' good VashonSmoke! 8)
Mike
Thanks Mike...If it wasn't for this forum I wouldn't have known where to start with the electronics. Got a bunch of meat marinating for jerky and hoping for good results!!
Vashonsmoke your cedar smoke house looks great, and your right about the forum lots of talent. Chris :)
Hey Mike
I am useing the k type tc, also I did do a boil water test, i need to do it again to see if it went out of cal. I'll let you know what I come up with maybe my 1512 is ok and my manual thermometer is out of spec. Need to check that too.
Chris :)