Hi everyone, i recently bought a 2ND in-line fuse (orange cable for OBS) to install with my 2ND element but could someone please tell me where or how to wire it? My plan is to bypass the slider bar. I already know for the 2ND element directly on the plug but I'M not sure where to plug the in-line fuse on the plug. I know there are 3 spots on the plug 2 for the elements on both ends but i don't know for the 2ND fuse. THX.
P.S. i did not added any switch only 2ND element and bypassing the slider bar.
Here is a link to Test Rocket's installation, but he also installed a second high temperature switch. The in-line fuse is connected to the neutral wire that is between the element and the power source.
TestRocket's Second H/L Switch & In-Line Fuse (http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=16299.msg197771#msg197771)
I forgot to mention the white wire is the neutral wire.
So both in-line fuses at the same place with a female spade connector? I think i understood thx habs always a plasure to be answered by you ;)
Yes! But I'm not sure how well the in-line fuse will work without it being connected to the high temperature sensor. I'm sure that one of our electrical members will be able to provide more information.
I forgot to mention i also bought the 2nd black sensor did not know how to call it sorry. When i said no switch, i meant the on/off switch for the 2ND element like you added sorry for the confusion.
Hello toker,
Sorry for the late reply. I'm 400 miles from home and our internet connection hasn't been as good as described. Habanero Smoker has given you the link to my upgrade and if you have any other questions please ask here or PM me and I'll help you anyway I can! Forgive any slowness in my replies!
You should be all set. You have the proper parts, and TestRocket is on standby.
Please if i can ask, you know the 2ND element, inside the insulator (NOT on the side), do you pass the high temp wire through the same hole (the big one on the middle) than the 1ST? Reason I'M asking, it's because with the ring connector for the 1ST element, the remaining space seems a little bit limited and someone told me that the wire for the 2ND element can not touch anything metal and the ring connector take most of the space.
p.s. the high temp wire that i bought for the 2ND element is 14 gauge 10 ft long hope its long enough.
Hi Toker
You are correct. The 2nd element wire does pass through the centre hole of the rear portion of the ceramic insulator along with the original wire. From there the wire passed through the notch in the ceramic cap (you have to grind the notch in the ceramic cap). It is a little tight but there is room for both wires.
In this photo you can see how I ground a notch in the ceramic cap for the existing heater element. For the notch in the ceramic element cap I used a bench grinder (on an angle using the corner of the stone), I'm sure a rat tail file would work as well, just be careful not to break the cap.
(http://www.susanminor.org/users/Hab/Misc_Files/Additional_Element/1_Knotched.jpg)
Mike
So, even if the 2ND high temp wire touch the ring connector of the 1ST element it does not matter? It is not dangerous? THX for the reply.
Right, even if he high temp wire touches the ring lug of the other element you are OK. It is a tight fit getting the new wires to the second element but the high temp wire can handle it. Good Luck!
Alright! now I'M sure of myself THX TestRocket! ;D OUF! i feel better this way, I've been looking a way to handle the situation for hours without success. I should have post long before. THX anyway. Once again your pictures are wonderfull and helpfull.
Ten feet of wire should be plenty. I started with ten feel, left a lot a play in the wiring I installed (which I didn't need to do) and still had about two feet left over. So that should be enough for the switch and the high temperature switch.
As others have mentioned, as long as the wire is insulated, it can come in contact with metal or other wires.
OK, one last question, i know that for the OBS to hook up the 2ND element i need to disconnect the 2 neutrals that goes into the faceplate. I understand witch ones and how, but once they are off the faceplate and tied together, where do i have to plug them on the plug if i want to keep my indicator light to work? On witch slot? I know where to plug the in-line fuse and the 2ND element, that is all i need to know before asking my friend to make the job for me. THX for your indulgence for my stupids questions I'M ULTRA SLOW TO UNDERSTAND I KNOW! :( (so shy to ask something like that really sorry)
I don't considered that being slow, I consider it being cautious and getting things right the first time.
To by past the slider control, and make sure the pilot light works, leave the neutral wire connected to the light; also leave the red wire connected. Disconnect the double wire, and the single wire from the circuit board. You will need to connect those three neutral wires together. The easiest way would be to cut off the spade connectors and use a wire nut to reconnect all three together.
OK lets make sure i understood... take this topic its an (old discussion that we had a while ago) on your 1ST reply, you provided a nice picture. Lets take this one by example
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=14896.0
If i understand, you want me to disconnect these 3 left white wires from the faceplate (those that make a kind of T shape) and with a wire nut joining them together (so that mean the 2 wires at the right, the red and the white will stay connected to the same connector? But once I've disconnected the 3 that you want me to, where on the plug do i plug them?
You could use the 2ND picture of this post to answer me please I'm very visual.
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=16299.msg197771#msg197771 Again THX for your time.
When I hooked up mine, I decided not to by pass the temperature controller, and installed an on/off switch for the second element. That way I could turn off the second element, not hook up my DigiQ II and still control the original element from the faceplate.
You will not have to plug them into anything, just connect them together. You will by pass the temperature controller. The two longer neutral wires already connects the neutral post of the original element to the heating source. One long wire runs from the element to the temperature controller, the other long wire already runs from the temperature controller to the neutral post of the power source (plug). So if you disconnect those two wires from the face plate and connect them together with a wire nut that will complete the circuit. If you want the pilot light to work to indicate when their is power going through the circuit, you must connect all three wires together.
In order to connect the wires together you may have to cut off the connectors, strip about 1/4" of insulation off the wires and connect them together with a wire nut.
This is not a picture of the wiring of what you want to do, but it shows what a wire nut is and how it is used to connect wires together:
Wiring Nut (http://www.susanminor.org/users/Hab/Misc_Files/Dry_Curing_Cabinet/Ranco_4.jpg)
ALLRIGHT I FINALLY UNDERSTOOD!! hurray for Habs and his GREAT PATIENCE for explaining an almost idiot guy! ;D THX REALLY MUCH! REALLY APPRECIATED!!
I'll tell you a secret, but keep it between you and me. :)
When I was first hooking mine up, I must have sent Mike (Mr. Walleye) at least a few dozen PM's before I finally understood how what I was doing.
Now it will be fixed really soon ;D Tuesday, i fixed my indoor setting. I'M back smoking in my kitchen. Now i only need to buy a wire nut, i will shop for it today and probably cooking my 1st rack of ribs of 2010 tomorrow or so. thx again!
That sounds goods.
Good luck there toker!
THX man but it should not be difficult to do now that i understood :D