Just wondering if my pucks are burning completely or enough . The top portion dosen't seem to burning ,is this normal or do I have problem. TIA for any responses
(http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/af68/Docspratley/Smoker/P1040237.jpg)
(http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/af68/Docspratley/Smoker/P1040239.jpg)
What kinda wood was it?
If it is the apple wood that you use for the cheese smoke then it should have
burnt a little more than that. Some of the harder woods don't always burn all the way.
May need to clean your puck burner. Or it could be a busy electrical circuit. (is it being
shared by another appliance) or if you are using an extension cord that is too small
or too long. Sometimes when you don't have your element running like when you smoke
cheese and it is 45* outside then you might not get a complete burn on the pucks.
Just watch it on you next full smoke.
Maybe your hotplate is not
Getting hot enough. Never Had that problem.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
i have ran into the same problem and what i have found is two issues
1) puck burner not hot enough. let the burner warm up for at least 40 minutes before useage
2) puck burner has build up on it ( not dis colored ) from the sap left in the wood its self, clean the burner so it is flat and smooth
That's been my experience too beefman. Let her heat up and get out the wire brush.
Same situation here even with a brand new smoke generator. I'M thinking about adding extra heat inside my cold smoke adaptor box to fix it.
What type of puck is that? And are you storing your pucks in a dry safe place away from moisture?
Thanks for all the responses.Some things I will try for next cold smoke.
Going to give puck burner a good cleaning,I have been cleaning it after every smoke.
Will do a 40 min pre heat on next cold smoke.
Going to try a couple different pucks on the same smoke, see if they burn the same?
Things that were right, no extension cord used. BDS has its own dedicated 120 volt outlet.
Pucks are stored properly in dry cool location in smaller plastic air tight rubbermaid container.
Will reload this weekend and see what happens.Thanks again for the responses, gota like this forum.
Rebuild the electronic surcuit. I am from sweden so hope you understand! se my blog http://korvoteknik.blogspot.com
Now my bricettes have 40 minutes instead of 20 minutes burn!
Quote from: stborgke on April 24, 2012, 01:02:03 PM
Rebuild the electronic surcuit. I am from sweden so hope you understand! se my blog http://korvoteknik.blogspot.com
Now my bricettes have 40 minutes instead of 20 minutes burn!
Looks like a very interesting blog. I will have to visit it more, as soon as I can get my translator on the browser to work. Do those spring loaded hooks indicate how much weight is lost when dry curing sausage?
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on April 24, 2012, 01:24:57 PM
Quote from: stborgke on April 24, 2012, 01:02:03 PM
Rebuild the electronic surcuit. I am from sweden so hope you understand! se my blog http://korvoteknik.blogspot.com
Now my bricettes have 40 minutes instead of 20 minutes burn!
Looks like a very interesting blog. I will have to visit it more, as soon as I can get my translator on the browser to work. Do those spring loaded hooks indicate how much weight is lost when dry curing sausage?
Looks like these Spring balances habs click here (http://www.amazon.com/Tubular-Spring-Scales-grams-Newtons/dp/B004MIF9DE/ref=pd_sbs_indust_1)
Quote from: Keymaster on April 24, 2012, 04:31:01 PM
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on April 24, 2012, 01:24:57 PM
Quote from: stborgke on April 24, 2012, 01:02:03 PM
Rebuild the electronic surcuit. I am from sweden so hope you understand! se my blog http://korvoteknik.blogspot.com
Now my bricettes have 40 minutes instead of 20 minutes burn!
Looks like a very interesting blog. I will have to visit it more, as soon as I can get my translator on the browser to work. Do those spring loaded hooks indicate how much weight is lost when dry curing sausage?
Looks like these Spring balances habs click here (http://www.amazon.com/Tubular-Spring-Scales-grams-Newtons/dp/B004MIF9DE/ref=pd_sbs_indust_1)
Thanks for the link. I've never heard of or seen these. Those can really save some of my time when making fermented sausages and dry cured meat.
I have solved the problem https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=355959237794203&set=a.289835587739902.68191.100001403906686&type=1&theater
Brikettid = Briquet time
I read through the Blog on the Mods using the Google Translator. Very nice job as he addresses both the dwell time for the biscuits both also addresses some shortcomings in the mechanical design and replaces galvanized and Nylon bolts and nuts with stainless to get around any rusting problems.
The basic electrical mod involves locating a specific point on the printed circuit board and using an Exacto knife to cut a couple traces and then solder a new jumper wire onto the board.
Here is the bulk of the text. The spaces are between pictures in his blog. Hope this helps for anyone wanting a quick read of the mod. There is one part that is not clear in the mod as it appears that he has put a rotary switch or potentiometer in to adjust the time but that does not seem to be described in the Blog unless I missed it.
-------------------------------------
Has the new integrated a variable control for biscuitmachine. You can adjust from 20 to about 40-50 minutes depending on how you turn the wheel
Now stop the problems of non burned briquettes.
As I have written I have annoyed for Bradleysmoker, now is the time to do something about it. Will begin to pick apart and mark up all the cables. This is important because some cables fit in two places. Take an example, masking tape and wrap around and write, for example, one on either side.
Say directly, I take no responsibility if you tab you make a mistake or do not get it to work afterwards. Do not have the necessary knowledge about this live with misery or build a "real" smoke. Like I said you do detT at your own risk!
We start by disassembling. Then remove the bracket / enclosure for the circuit board. Unscrew the lid and then screw we removed the circuit board. Now exposed card and we can start to rebuild. What we must do is jumper on the PCB. This may seem like a difficult business but it is not. Just follow the below anvising. Does not report how this card works you can read here what you do is to double the time by changing the circuit board.
Now, the circuit is removed and screwed loose now we can begin to fix. You see the crab / insect IC circuit in the middle.
Locate this. The three resistors with the capacitor represents the frequency of the IC circuit.
You see 2 lines on the right side thereof shall be fixed with.
Close-up
Here's what to do!
Take a knife and cut off as I have, it is important to cut the copper wires in the circuit board
My jumper wire
Solder between these bones, now we have doubled the residence time of the briquettes on the trampoline
Replace the circuit board and seal all the briefings!
We have now completed the operartionen doubled and the residence time of the briquettes 20 to 40 minutes. I have tested and it works very well! The briquettes are completely burned and utnytjade. Now we go to all non-stainless steel screws and stupid solutions.
Viewing this a stupid assembly. Here we have chosen a stainless steel bolt with a nut of galvanized steel, also with nylon top. Idiot Steam! A Nylock nut is burned to get up on the trampoline! In addition, the non-rusting stainless steel nut, what are they supposed to?
Here I show a new and Bradley Nylock! You can not have nylonlÄsmuttrar at 300 degrees Bradley! In the background is a stainless steel nut with a lock washer stainless.
Mounted real stuff.
Switched to stainless bolts here
Trampoline with a 125W power, should be about 0.5 cm below the current mounting in order not to transfer heat to the waiting briquette. I will build on this later.
Now finally finished. Now the briquettes 40 minutes of dwell time on the trampoline and burn completely is nothing left, works as it should.
Providing Bradley to show my improvement proposal will see if they are biting!
Thanks for the translation DoyleS!
I shall as soon i can give you a description why and how to built in the variable time. Nive that google transalation working, i know that Swedish is not the easiest language (maybe for me ;)).
/Kenth Borglund, Sweden http://korvoteknik.blogspot.se/search/label/Bradleysmoker
korvoteknik = sausage and technology
Well mine burn better then that but I have found the approach to the burner is about 1/8 higher. and the puck doesn't clear the approach completely. So part is on and part is off the burner. Maybe just 1/16-1/8 but enough the puck don't set flush on burner. Just noticed it. But have been happy with the burn. So I will look and see if I can adjust it or clean it.
Do you have any pics to go with your explanation, its a little confusing. Thx Rich