So I was planing on smoking the past weekend...good thing I have a propane smoker since the Bradley kept tripping the breaker. Took apart the smoke generator and all connections look ok, but I checked all the connections. I had it upside down, apart and plugged it in...it did not trip the breaker. Great - just a freak thing.
Put it all together..and trip the breaker. The the generator off, reset breaker, while holding the generator, I plug it in and I was shocked by one of the screws on the bottom of the smoke generator (one that sits under the advance motor).
I called Bradley and they relayed that anytime you tripa breaker, they attribute it to one of the heating elements. I am not convinced and before I pay the $50 for another puck burner element I figured I would ask here.
Over the past year (unit is four years old) I have replaced most of the parts in the smoke generator...usually they are $5-20 bucks but the burner is a bit more...wondering if I got a lemon!
First off. Bradley's do not like GFCI's. Make sure you are not plugged into one either at source or at the panel.
I have had my Bradley since 2006 plugged into a GFI circuit without any problems of tripping the circuit. I suspect if you are tripping the circuit and got a shock, you have a real issue.
There have been other members that have had problems with their smoker tripping the GFI circuit.
Here is one thread that discussed this topic. You may want to check it out before purchasing another element or heating pad.
GFI Keeps Tripping (http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=7919.msg81085#msg81085)
Also try using a hair dryer, to dry out the generator, and also dry out the GFI outlet.
I've had my Bradley + a small frig since 08 plugged into a GFI circuit outback. Recently, I added a 6 rack to this breaker and still haven't had any problems unless my wife is running her heat gun while doing crafts.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/310501_250738298305313_100001074346303_665356_1116527938_n.jpg)
Do you know if you have anything else running on this circuit while smoking?
Quote from: mfh on January 17, 2012, 06:16:45 PMI called Bradley and they relayed that anytime you tripa breaker, they attribute it to one of the heating elements.
You can test this by bypassing the SG box and plugging the tower directly into the GFCI. If it doesn't trip then there's something wrong inside the SG.
I have had this problem in the past and it was due to the cord.. also try a higher gauge extension cord if you are using one. I replaced the original cord and haven't had a problem since
I think my Lab to a bite into it which was hard to see that was causing the problem.
sounds like you might have pinched a wire between two pieces of metal creating a short and tripping the breaker or gfi. i would check the continuity between the hot and the case, and neutral and case for a reading, if you do looking closely for the cause.
Ya just gotta learn how to hold yer mouth right.
:P :o :P :o :P
Should have added that I had been running it for years from the GFI outlet with no issues. It works when plugged into a non-GFI outlet.
I saw the other thread (thanks) and did try to test to see if there was a voltage reading between the regular outlet screw and the case/screw and saw nothing at first...but then realized i missed one screw on the back, aboce the power cord input. It reads 1.5V.
Now to take it apart and see what is attached there!
So I took it apart and disconnected the puck advance and heater so I have the left side of the SG which contains power connectors, fuse, puck advance button and on switch.
When I put one leg of the volt meter on the hot wire, without touching the other probe to anything I get a 10V reading. When I touch the case it sometimes goes to 11, but not always. I disconnected the wire bridge (not sure what it is called) so I could just check the incoming hot and neutral without anything attached and I get the same reading. When I test between neutral and case I don't get any voltage reading.
I looked at all the connections and wires and see no places where there could be contact.
Any thoughts on how to systematically test to neck down the problem? I was thinking since I have it all apart, I could bring it to the GFI receptacle and plug it in...and then keep adding connections to see when it trips. Will give that a try after supper...
OK - short version, after testing and playing...I have determined it is the puck burner.
Longer version...thought it was pon the switch side of the box based on receiving some voltage when plugged in. As I went piece by piece, I "determined" it was the indicator light since it looked like it was coming apart and has some wiggle...put it all together and tested...and things looked good. Put it on the GFI and it did not trip it. Problem solved...
Then I grabbed it and zap...yup, thats 120V coming from the screw on the bottom. Shock tipped me off, meter confirmed it. Oddly, the GFI did not trip. But clearly it was grounding.
Back to the basement...is was coming from the other half of the SG with the burner and puck advance. Unplugged the heater...tested the screw and voltage was at 30V. But not the 120V which clearly demonstrates what I think was tripping the GFI.
So when all said and done...what I found, with the SG plugged, burner connected but detached from the unit (sitting on the bench):
- the screws attached to the case on the left side (with the on switch) register about 3V,
- the screws on the left side (with the puck advance) registered 30V
- the burner itself registered 120V.
Wires to the burner are not frayed or damaged. The wire is glued into the burner so no way of telling what has happened inside...but appears pretty clear that I need a new burner unit unless anyone has any more suggestions?!?!?
Thanks for the posts!
Cheers,
Matt
It seems you were very thorough. A faulty burner will blow the fuse in the generator, so I can see how it can trip the GFI.
Dam I hate finding shorts that way. :o Well glad you are getting it figured out. I wasn't suggesting evey GFCI will trip but quite afew people have declared this problem so I just raise notice to it as a place to start. Hope it helped get you going in a direction.
Received the new burner today (also ordered the face plate (it has some cracks) and cabinet element since I suspect it will fail at some point). Put it all together and things are working fine.
Wife asked me - "You still recommend these things after you have had a bunch of components fail?"
I had to think for a second...I have replaced almost every component except the ones above and that was within four years. I guess the only good thing is repair is easy and parts are pretty cheap. I would like to see Bradley put a little better quality into the units. I suppose for a couple-time-a-year user the parts are fine...but for folks that use them a lot, they don't hold up as much as I would expect them to.
But I do love the Bradley!
And BTW Qaurlow...I have had lots of practice find how not to handle electricity...fortunately 120v is seldom fatal. :-\
I hear you there. I have had more than my share also. I remember one time I was out till late late one night smokin stuff we won't mention. Well I was too up on cloud nine to go home so I stayed out till about 3 am so I could act normal. I finally went home but we had this one light switch that had no plate on it. When I went to shut the light off I touch the terminals. Long story short, I was back on cloud nine. Of course I yelled when it happened and woke my dad up. Busted. I should have just slept in my brothers car for the rest of the night. LOL. Goodtimes.
I realize this thread is more than a year old, but I recently started having the same problem. When I first purchased my DBS we lived in a home that didn't have a gfci on the circuit, then moved to a place that has gfci circuits. The first few smokes went well, but then gfci started tripping after about 1 1/2 to 2 hours in. So seems heat is a factor, and now has acted up on 2 straight smokes. In researching GFCI's, it seems the failure rate is quite high, by not tripping when they detect an imbalance of 5 or more milliamps between line and common.
Will do more tests and remove the gfci & try that.
Alan
After further evauation, determined gfi tripping was caused by current leakage from 900 watt heater element to safety ground when it became hot. All ok for an hour or more when first turned on, then gfi would trip when oven on, but ok with smoke generator only. Would also trip when oven connected direct, but ok when 3rd wire disconnected. So isolated heating element from ground with 2, 1"x1 1/2"x3/8" teflon blocks. Problem solved as it now works fine with gfi in circuit & grounded properly.
Great, glad you found the problem.
Wonder if moisture or grease shorted it out like the probes. If there is a way to bake with out melting wires might prove interesting
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Viper,
You may be right about moisture or grease. Hadn't thought about that. Wonder if it will dry out with element on for some hours without smoke generator on & no water pan?