Just how does the sequence for this go. When you turn on the smoker should it advance pucks until there is one on the burner or does it just advance one every 20 minutes until one hits the burner. I am trying to figure if mine is working or not.
it advances one every 20 minutes until 1 hits the burner
It'll take 40 minutes to get the puck on the element. I start everything at once and by the time the puck gets on the element, the oven has preheated to my desired temp. On the digital I add 40 mins and don't advance the pucks manually anymore
Well then there is something wrong with mine. When I hit the smoker button it advances one puck. I haven't sat and watched if it does it again in 20 minutes though and I don't want to waste a bunch of pucks trying to fix this. I will have to look into this further but this puck advance problem is a real pain to figure out because you have to hang around and watch the dang thing for at least over and hour.
When I thought my SG was acting flaky, I put a piece of duct tape even with the top of the top bisquette. When I came back in an hour the level of the bisquettes were either 2-3 down from the tape or they weren't. That's when I realized I had a bad advance system. Since mine was out of warranty by 6 months, I bought a new one and now no problems
When you turn the digital on it automatically advances one time, then every twenty minutes thereafter, all things being equal and working. I usually warm everything up for about 20 minutes then add my pucks and use the manual advance 3 times to get the first puck on the burner, then I reset the time to how long I want to smoke plus one hour for the bubba pucks.
Excuse this big "I" on my forehead....... I just didn't want to sit for 2 hours to watch the puck advance every 20 minutes. If I had 10 dummy pucks I could figure this out for myself but I don't. So here is what I have done. 20 times exactly the same way. Plug the smoker in, (hear the little beep beeps). Turn on the SG.(watch the little lights come on). Watch for the puck advancer to work. Turn off the SG. Unplug the smoker. Do it again 19 more times.
Results....the puck advancer would advanced the puck on start up 9 times out of 20. I never watched to see if it would advance in the next 20 minutes I just don't have time right now. When I push the "wood" button sometimes it will advance and sometimes it won't.
Quote from: Saber 4 on January 07, 2014, 05:42:55 PM
When you turn the digital on it automatically advances one time, then every twenty minutes thereafter, all things being equal and working. I usually warm everything up for about 20 minutes then add my pucks and use the manual advance 3 times to get the first puck on the burner, then I reset the time to how long I want to smoke plus one hour for the bubba pucks.
I believe this is how mine worked for the first 8-10 smokes but now it has a mind of it's own.
I wonder if this could be the results of running a second element in the unit WITHOUT a PID? Maybe that is what shorted your system in some way and why your having issues with your puck advance?
I never load my bisquettes until I load my food. After loading the food, I press the advance button three times to move the first bisquette to the burner. Loading the bisquettes when you load the food, will eliminates the issue as to whether or not the generator advances a bisquette on power up.
If you have the Bubba pucks, you can use them plus one or two bisquettes to do a test, and you shouldn't ruin any bisquettes.
When I had issues with my generator not advancing the bisquettes properly, I didn't have the time to sit and watch each bisquette cycle threw. What I did was set a timer for 18 minutes. I would hit the advance button, and start the timer. Then I would load my Bubba pucks and two bisquettes. Every 18 minutes I would return to the smoker and wait to see if the generator would cycle the next bisquette. When the bisquette cycled through, reset the timer. The reason for setting the timer for 18 minutes, is that I found the cycle is not always 20 minutes. It could be a little more or a little less.
Granted, the time doesn't free you up for long, but it is better then having to sit by the smoker the full time.
Quote from: Tenpoint5 on January 07, 2014, 09:22:06 PM
I wonder if this could be the results of running a second element in the unit WITHOUT a PID? Maybe that is what shorted your system in some way and why your having issues with your puck advance?
Oh really..... I first reported this puck advance problem on Dec 21. Long before the second element thread.
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on January 08, 2014, 01:53:16 AM
I never load my bisquettes until I load my food. After loading the food, I press the advance button three times to move the first bisquette to the burner. Loading the bisquettes when you load the food, will eliminates the issue as to whether or not the generator advances a bisquette on power up.
Habanero, That is exactly how I was doing it with the exception that once the SG and oven were warmed up I would load the pucks and then turn both the oven and the SG off momentarily then start them both from zero so I had a starting point on the readouts. Because I would advance the three pucks is why I didn't know if it advanced once off the get go and so my question. Now that I am playing with it in my shop I am trying to figure out why it stops advancing and then will go again after I push the "WOOD" button.
For someone just reading this post you have me confused, when you say it starts advancing after hitting the wood button. Are you saying it starts working again every 20 minutes or so? Or do you mean it will advance the one puck onto the burner and that's it?? If its that it will only advance the one puck and than stops again it sounds like the circuit board is toast.
Quote from: renoman on January 08, 2014, 06:31:11 AM
Quote from: Tenpoint5 on January 07, 2014, 09:22:06 PM
I wonder if this could be the results of running a second element in the unit WITHOUT a PID? Maybe that is what shorted your system in some way and why your having issues with your puck advance?
Oh really..... I first reported this puck advance problem on Dec 21. Long before the second element thread.
Unless I am missing something, when you "first reported this" vs the timing of the 2nd element thread doesn't matter in regards to 10.5's comment. What matters is when you added the second element and when you started having puck advance problems.
Quote from: GusRobin on January 08, 2014, 03:20:11 PM
Quote from: renoman on January 08, 2014, 06:31:11 AM
Quote from: Tenpoint5 on January 07, 2014, 09:22:06 PM
I wonder if this could be the results of running a second element in the unit WITHOUT a PID? Maybe that is what shorted your system in some way and why your having issues with your puck advance?
Oh really..... I first reported this puck advance problem on Dec 21. Long before the second element thread.
Unless I am missing something, when you "first reported this" vs the timing of the 2nd element thread doesn't matter in regards to 10.5's comment. What matters is when you added the second element and when you started having puck advance problems.
I added the second element yesterday and started having the puck problems back in December. The two are not related. I also have not run the system with the two elements without the PID. Let me explain what happened as best as I can remember on my last smoke.
Warmed up the smoker and SG as I always have. Dried my chubs for about an hour loaded the pucks and then restarted the SG. I always make sure the first puck is on the burner and smoking before I leave it for any reason. I advanced the pucks till the first one was on and started smoking. Went to walk the dog for about an hour. When I got back only the first puck was on the burner and was burnt to dust. I pressed the WOOD button and nothing happened. Pressed it a few more times and finally got the puck to advance. It then seemed to be working fine for the next few pucks but after 3 or four more it stopped advancing them again. Pressed the WOOD button again (more than once) and got the pucks advancing until I was done smoking.
Now I am looking at it in my shop and it is doing the same sporadic thing. Some times when you turn on the SG it will advance the first puck and some times it won't. When pressing the WOOD button sometimes it will advance and sometimes it won't. I have listened to the sound it is making and it sounds like it is running and then shutting off like it should but it just won't restart on every try like it should.
Well it is starting to sound more like a faulty micro switch. Sometimes it will catch and other times it loses the connection and needs to be reset from the wood advance button. Just guessing on this but it would be a place to start
Renoman,
I've had the same exact issues in the past. It's an off an on thing for me. I cleaned out (shook the wood particles out) the SG and it's been good the last few smokes.
Devo,
Is replacing the micro switch difficult? Assuming instructions are on the recipe site?
That makes it clearer.
I had some puck advance problems. Turns out that the tube that holds the pucks was misaligned and was preventing the pucks from advancing. Have you looked at that?
Quote from: STLstyle on January 08, 2014, 06:12:56 PM
Renoman,
I've had the same exact issues in the past. It's an off an on thing for me. I cleaned out (shook the wood particles out) the SG and it's been good the last few smokes.
Devo,
Is replacing the micro switch difficult? Assuming instructions are on the recipe site?
I have never had to replace it but the one or two times I had my SG open it really don't look that difficult. From what I been reading it seems to be a hit or miss thing getting it lined up properly. I have not looked on the recipe site for instructions but dam near everything else is there so I would assume there is something there to help you out.
Quote from: renoman on January 08, 2014, 02:43:24 PM
Habanero, That is exactly how I was doing it with the exception that once the SG and oven were warmed up I would load the pucks and then turn both the oven and the SG off momentarily then start them both from zero so I had a starting point on the readouts. Because I would advance the three pucks is why I didn't know if it advanced once off the get go and so my question. Now that I am playing with it in my shop I am trying to figure out why it stops advancing and then will go again after I push the "WOOD" button.
I have the OBS. I found with that generator sometimes it advances immediately on power-up, and sometimes it advances somewhat later. So I couldn't rely on it to advance immediately. Though each time you push the advance button, the timer resets to zero.
I was talking about the puck advance during the actual smoke. I have come back during the smoking process only to find a puck that's completely burnt out and has not advanced as it should have. I've also stood there and watched it happen. It's very inconsistent. Haven't had issues in a few smokes but it's definitely frustrating to not be able to trust it. Almost like babysitting a stick burner...
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on January 09, 2014, 01:24:20 AM
Though each time you push the advance button, the timer resets to zero.
That is something I did not know.
Here is the micro switch and motor. Looks like a couple of screws and a couple of dabs of glue. This thing being so sensitive how easy is it to align so that the motor arm is turning it on and off properly?
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2505_zps2adff8f1.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2505_zps2adff8f1.jpg.html)
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2494_zps92a4eacc.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2494_zps92a4eacc.jpg.html)
Quote from: STLstyle on January 09, 2014, 05:59:55 AM
Almost like babysitting a stick burner...
........exactly like babysitting a stick burner. :'(
Quote from: Saber 4 on January 07, 2014, 05:42:55 PM
When you turn the digital on it automatically advances one time, then every twenty minutes thereafter, all things being equal and working. I usually warm everything up for about 20 minutes then add my pucks and use the manual advance 3 times to get the first puck on the burner, then I reset the time to how long I want to smoke plus one hour for the bubba pucks.
I put the smoke generator timer for the max time I can. Put in 3 pucks for every hour of smoke I want, plus 3 bubba pucks and let her rip. In 40 minutes the SG is warm and pumping smoke, the cabinet is warm and has dinner therein ( I often will turn the cabinet on prior to the SG to get it hotter) . After the smoking time period is done, I swap out the water bowl, now with spent pucks therein, for fresh hot waterwater. I'm cooking with both the main heater and the heat from the SG. Everything runs until my remote thermometer tells me "its done". The hardest thing, at first, was leaving everything alone for oh so many hours. After a few tries, you get into the "zen" experience of smoking.
Its done when its done,
I've done what needs to be done,
goodness comes with poise
Ciao
Quote from: renoman on January 09, 2014, 06:41:34 AM
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on January 09, 2014, 01:24:20 AM
Though each time you push the advance button, the timer resets to zero.
That is something I did not know.
The digital doesn't reset when the advance button is pushed it stays on track with the display timer, at least mine does.....
Though each time you push the advance button, the timer resets to zero.
Saber4 said the digital doesn't reset when the advance button is pushed it stays on track with the display timer, at least mine does.....
My digital does not reset when the advance button is pushed either & stays on track timer wise unless turned off then on again.
One possibility I learned when making my own pucks is if they are too big in diameter, they can hang up. If they get damp, they will swell and that can be enough to cause problems.
OK I have found out EXACTLY what is going on in there. I took the cover off and laid the cover on it's side so I could watch the motor in motion.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2532_zps13bee62a.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2532_zps13bee62a.jpg.html)
I turned on the SG and the motor made it's 360 revolution and then stopped as should. I push the WOOD button and the motor moves about 1 degree over the micro switch and stops. I push WOOD again and it moves about another degree over the switch and stops. I push WOOD again and the motor does it 360 but in a different direction (counter clockwise). I keep pushing WOOD and the motor moves 1 degree or sometimes 360. it keeps changing directions but when it returns to the micro switch it never stops on it in exactly the same place (see pics) sometimes it will roll over the switch back and forth until it finally rolls off and does the 360.
Also the little brass roller on the motor arms doesn't line up exactly with the switch. Not sure if that is an issue or not.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2528_zps6332b796.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2528_zps6332b796.jpg.html)
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2527_zps3d88f559.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2527_zps3d88f559.jpg.html)
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2525_zps354525f8.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2525_zps354525f8.jpg.html)
On a closer look at my pics it looks like the motor arms might be rubbing on the switch housing.
On my last round of bacon I noticed that mine just stopped advancing after the 3rd or 4th puck advance. Power cycling the SG seems to kick it off though however I'm wondering if weather was a factor. Ambient was below 0 but no wind and it was indoors(garage with door open) so I keep my SG inside now and only bring it out when I'm ready. Will try it when it's a bit warmer and see if that has any effect.
Quote from: Saber 4 on January 09, 2014, 07:33:27 AM
Quote from: renoman on January 09, 2014, 06:41:34 AM
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on January 09, 2014, 01:24:20 AM
Though each time you push the advance button, the timer resets to zero.
That is something I did not know.
The digital doesn't reset when the advance button is pushed it stays on track with the display timer, at least mine does.....
I should clarify my statement. The timer I am talking about is the 20 minute timer that is reset to zero.
Renoman;
It is the motor position that can be adjusted.
If a picture is worth a thousand words then a video is worth a million. Here it is. Make sure to turn the volume up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLvDqe2wLRw&feature=youtu.be
Sorry about the end of that video. It was my first YouTube upload. ;D Didn't mean to take you on a tour of my office.
I fixed it!
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on January 09, 2014, 12:50:07 PM
Quote from: Saber 4 on January 09, 2014, 07:33:27 AM
Quote from: renoman on January 09, 2014, 06:41:34 AM
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on January 09, 2014, 01:24:20 AM
Though each time you push the advance button, the timer resets to zero.
That is something I did not know.
The digital doesn't reset when the advance button is pushed it stays on track with the display timer, at least mine does.....
I should clarify my statement. The timer I am talking about is the 20 minute timer that is reset to zero.
I guess I need to clarify my statement also, when I referred to "digital" I meant the smoker model and not the digital display, when I have a missed puck advance in mid 20 minute cycle and push the wood advance button the next puck advances when the digital display finishes counting down the 20 minute cycle it was in the middle of not 20 minutes after pushing the advance button.
renoman, in the FAQ section on "continuously advancing pucks is a section that explains why the motor changes direction and how to correct it if the SG doesn't auto correct itself.
Quote from: Saber 4 on January 09, 2014, 02:29:11 PM
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on January 09, 2014, 12:50:07 PM
Quote from: Saber 4 on January 09, 2014, 07:33:27 AM
Quote from: renoman on January 09, 2014, 06:41:34 AM
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on January 09, 2014, 01:24:20 AM
Though each time you push the advance button, the timer resets to zero.
That is something I did not know.
The digital doesn't reset when the advance button is pushed it stays on track with the display timer, at least mine does.....
I should clarify my statement. The timer I am talking about is the 20 minute timer that is reset to zero.
I guess I need to clarify my statement also, when I referred to "digital" I meant the smoker model and not the digital display, when I have a missed puck advance in mid 20 minute cycle and push the wood advance button the next puck advances when the digital display finishes counting down the 20 minute cycle it was in the middle of not 20 minutes after pushing the advance button.
renoman, in the FAQ section on "continuously advancing pucks is a section that explains why the motor changes direction and how to correct it if the SG doesn't auto correct itself.
I am not sure if I have the right FAQ that you are referring to but I did pull the plug in the middle of the puck advance cycle and it did nothing to help this situation.
Sounds like you were looking at the same thing I saw, sorry it didn't help, I remembered reading it but haven't had a need to try it on mine.
I guess I am going to have to send this YouTube link to Bradley support. I am getting a bit frustrated by this as my smoker is now a babysit appliance as it sits now. I have been an avid reader of these forums but just today read the other than "digital" forums and can not believe that the same problems are happening with all of the smokers. I thought I was just a sucker to bite on the digital. The puck advance issue is wide spread. There doesn't seem to be a definite answer to the problem. Should people that buy these smokers be advised to pull them apart and fix them themselves? I know Bradley monitors this forum but where are they? I have posted a YouTube video of my problem that seems to be quite common and there is no peep from them. I think they know there is a big problem but are dragging their asses on this issue. I am not impressed.
I read on the other forum to pull the SG, add the Auber PID, and the Amazn smoker tube and smoke on. Great idea to turn your 550.00 cabinet into a reliable smoker.
I sincerely wish I could help you further Renoman. Apparently my suggestions were without merit so I deleted all of them in deference to others.
Please contact Brian directly at Bradley. He will take care of you.
As for continuing to badmouth Bradley on their Forum and then going to ask them for help? Might not be your best tactic because as you said "they monitor this forum".
Watching the video, I go back to adjusting the motor. It looks like the armature is hitting the micro switch housing. If you back the motor off, that may solve the problem.
Bisquettes Continuously Feeding (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?488-Answers-To-Bradley-Smoker-FAQ-s&p=988#post988)
I believe the other FAQ being referred to is the link below. This would work for some, but not for others. But from your video, it looks like an alignment problem.
Bisquettes Not Properly Advancing (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?488-Answers-To-Bradley-Smoker-FAQ-s&p=775#post775)
Saber4;
Thanks for your clarification.
I am not trying to bad mouth Bradley. I am just frustrated that I have a smoker that is pretty much useless right now. Believe me I would rather be posting pictures of smoked meat than videos of my malfunctioning smoker. I have tried all of the suggestions on the FAQ pages and have determined that the motor arm is not hitting the switch housing. I will fiddle with the motor alignment and see if that will fix it. That is my last hope and I will contact Bradley if that doesn't work.
I have had a similar issue and after I went through the troubleshooting/cleaning steps and it was still intermittent I gave Betsy in CS a call and she confirmed that the micro switch is probably going out and she is sending me a new one today.
I had a chance to review your video again. What is causing that occasional rubbing sound. It seems to only happen when the arm is out of camera view.
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on January 10, 2014, 01:12:26 PM
I had a chance to review your video again. What is causing that occasional rubbing sound. It seems to only happen when the arm is out of camera view.
That is a good question. I did not notice that sound when I made the video but it is obvious something is rubbing. I will investigate further.
Quote from: renoman on January 10, 2014, 02:16:17 PM
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on January 10, 2014, 01:12:26 PM
I had a chance to review your video again. What is causing that occasional rubbing sound. It seems to only happen when the arm is out of camera view.
That is a good question. I did not notice that sound when I made the video but it is obvious something is rubbing. I will investigate further.
It sounds like the rubbing is coming from the puck advance plate rubbing on the track it rides in.
OK. I have done some messing around with the distance the motor arm is from the switch housing and this is what I have found.
This is too far away and the motor will stop sometimes but most often it will just keep on going past the switch and send an "E" message to the display board. This must be what is happening to guys who complain that they get a bowl full of unburned pucks.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2540_zpse3512dfe.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2540_zpse3512dfe.jpg.html)
This is too close and causes the problems I was having in my video of the motor trying to get off the switch.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2538_zps06f2bf7e.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2538_zps06f2bf7e.jpg.html)
This is just about right. I got the thing to work about 20 times in a row but still every once in awhile it would get stuck at the switch for about 1 or 2 WOOD presses.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2541_zps1a7d3074.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2541_zps1a7d3074.jpg.html)
Now I have a second question. How much play in the motor should there be. The following two pics show how much play there is in the motor arm.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2541_zps1a7d3074.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2541_zps1a7d3074.jpg.html)
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2542_zps6ab6efbc.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2542_zps6ab6efbc.jpg.html)
And one final thing. I think by the look of the rub marks on the black paint my puck advancer is rubbing the housing. That must have been what was making the noise in the video. I am not sure if the upper ones have an adjustment but there is some side to side adjustment.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2547_zps4efd41b1.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2547_zps4efd41b1.jpg.html)
So I am thinking it "is" a matter of how close the motor arm is set to the micro switch but man we are talking tenths of a millimeter to get it right and even then it doesn't work every time. I wonder if I just have an over sensitive switch.
I have been following this thread. After seeing what you posted today about the switch. If you have a meter to test Continuity, preferably one that will beep. You can put it on the switch and test in manually and see how that works. Then let it run it's cycle, while watching the arm hit the switch you can hear the beep from the meter. Might give you an idea if the switch is at fault. I don't have a digital smoker but deal with this kind of thing at work.
You have a timer, once that timer counts down (or up) to it's preset number. It opens a circuit sending power to to motor. The motor rotates the arm, when the arm hits the micro switch, it resets the timer and closes the circuit to the motor. The timer starts counting down (up) again, the proses continues.
Just thought of something else. If you can back the arm off enough so it doesn't hit the switch. Or better, un-mount the the switch so the arm don't hit it. The motor should run continuously. Use your finger and press the switch firmly. Motor should stop. Play with this to see how much pressure it takes to activate the switch.
Quote from: RedJada on January 10, 2014, 04:14:19 PM
Just thought of something else. If you can back the arm off enough so it doesn't hit the switch. Or better, un-mount the the switch so the arm don't hit it. The motor should run continuously. Use your finger and press the switch firmly. Motor should stop. Play with this to see how much pressure it takes to activate the switch.
You are right it will run continuously if it is too far away from the switch. It takes VERY little pressure to activate the switch. It is more of a matter of how far down you press the switch to activate it.
In my reply, I think reply #15 I had said it sounded like a faulty micro switch. You have done many adjustments to your unit and have had little success. You have giving it a good go but just maybe its time to break down and get a new switch. The adjustments are not that fine that you should have to be playing with it so much. Get a new switch and at least you can rule that out. You have to remember this stuff is mass produced and your sure to get some faulty ones.
The Sony's PS4 game console has a failure rate of 1%. so for every 1 million sold 10,000 are going to be defective units. Xbox is close to 3% failure rate .
Why should the bradley be any different?
Called Brian directly at Bradley yet?
Quote from: devo on January 10, 2014, 05:58:57 PM
In my reply, I think reply #15 I had said it sounded like a faulty micro switch. You have done many adjustments to your unit and have had little success. You have giving it a good go but just maybe its time to break down and get a new switch. The adjustments are not that fine that you should have to be playing with it so much. Get a new switch and at least you can rule that out. You have to remember this stuff is mass produced and your sure to get some faulty ones.
The Sony's PS4 game console has a failure rate of 1%. so for every 1 million sold 10,000 are going to be defective units. Xbox is close to 3% failure rate .
Why should the bradley be any different?
I have been in an ongoing email conversation with Brain at Bradley, he has been watching this thread and his advice at this point is the same as yours to try a new microswitch. I will call customer service on Monday and have them send one out. Not sure how this relates to Sony PS4. I am just trying to document a problem that many on these forums are having so they don't have to pull their hair out fixing their new Bradleys. The consensus at this point was to adjust the motor distance from the switch. I hope the new switch will do the trick but I have a suspicion there is something about the slop in the motor's arm that may be part of the problem. If you watch the video close you can see what I mean.
QuoteNot sure how this relates to Sony PS4
I was just trying to point out that all companys have expectable failure rates and bradley would be no different.
I think you went over and beyond what most people would have done to try and fix their unit. Not many would have done what you have done to try and fix it. I am just saying the horse is dead and stop kicking it. Time to buy some new parts ;D
So far I am not too impressed with the quality of the Bradley equipment. When it works it is awesome! The key is when it works. I purchased a new 6 rack in Oct 2013. Broke after using it 3 times. Exchanged it for another one in early Dec 2013. I have used it 6 times, and already having issues with the pucks feeding. Not impressed for the money.
Quote from: devo on January 10, 2014, 05:58:57 PM
In my reply, I think reply #15 I had said it sounded like a faulty micro switch. You have done many adjustments to your unit and have had little success. You have giving it a good go but just maybe its time to break down and get a new switch. The adjustments are not that fine that you should have to be playing with it so much. Get a new switch and at least you can rule that out. You have to remember this stuff is mass produced and your sure to get some faulty ones.
The Sony's PS4 game console has a failure rate of 1%. so for every 1 million sold 10,000 are going to be defective units. Xbox is close to 3% failure rate .
Why should the bradley be any different?
Defiantly have to agree with devo. You posted a lot of good info about your problem. I'm guessing you have bad contacts in your micro switch. Replace the switch as mentioned. I think it will fix your problem.
Quote from: RedJada on January 10, 2014, 06:40:43 PM
Quote from: devo on January 10, 2014, 05:58:57 PM
In my reply, I think reply #15 I had said it sounded like a faulty micro switch. You have done many adjustments to your unit and have had little success. You have giving it a good go but just maybe its time to break down and get a new switch. The adjustments are not that fine that you should have to be playing with it so much. Get a new switch and at least you can rule that out. You have to remember this stuff is mass produced and your sure to get some faulty ones.
The Sony's PS4 game console has a failure rate of 1%. so for every 1 million sold 10,000 are going to be defective units. Xbox is close to 3% failure rate .
Why should the bradley be any different?
Defiantly have to agree with devo. You posted a lot of good info about your problem. I'm guessing you have bad contacts in your micro switch. Replace the switch as mentioned. I think it will fix your problem.
That is my plan at this point. I hope it does work. I have to say that Brian at Bradley has been of great help on this issue. He had "sent a question onto the factory to see if we can increase the delay from the micro switch signal". I am sure he has better things to do in his day than answer my "newbe" questions. There just have been so many questions on this issue that I thought I would post a few pics and maybe that would help some people in the future. Some of you on here have taken interest in this and have been of great help and some have not. So be it. I will report back when I get my new switch.
I for one appreciate your work on this issue, and your follow up on this matter; especially the video. It will help others in the future, but just to note; nine times out of ten this is easily solved by adjusting the motor position.
I hope the micro switch solves the problem. If you figure it out, let us know why the arm is hitting the housing.
Renoman,
I appreciate your efforts. Your pics and video has given me an understanding of how the advance system works. I believe my issue is the same although less consistent than yours. I'm greatly interested what bradley recommends to delay the switch. Please keep us posted!
reno, it sounds like there is a rough spot or a sharp square corner on the puck pusher that's making it scratch the paint off. I'd inspect it and dress any rough areas on the contact surfaces and smooth out the scratched area. Then I'd use a dry lubricant like spray silicone or graphite on the runway and pusher.
Quote from: Salmonsmoker on January 11, 2014, 08:07:49 AM
reno, it sounds like there is a rough spot or a sharp square corner on the puck pusher that's making it scratch the paint off. I'd inspect it and dress any rough areas on the contact surfaces and smooth out the scratched area. Then I'd use a dry lubricant like spray silicone or graphite on the runway and pusher.
Salmonsmoker, I took the whole mechanism apart to see what was rubbing. There really isn't any sort of guides for the puck pusher. It just kinda rides in there and is held in place by a little brass arm in the long slotted hole. Everything is loose and nothing is binding but the metal just runs on the metal so there is going to be some sort of rubbing somewhere. I sprayed some silicone in there but it still makes a grinding noise every once in awhile.
Quote from: renoman on January 11, 2014, 08:34:21 AM
Quote from: Salmonsmoker on January 11, 2014, 08:07:49 AM
reno, it sounds like there is a rough spot or a sharp square corner on the puck pusher that's making it scratch the paint off. I'd inspect it and dress any rough areas on the contact surfaces and smooth out the scratched area. Then I'd use a dry lubricant like spray silicone or graphite on the runway and pusher.
Salmonsmoker, I took the whole mechanism apart to see what was rubbing. There really isn't any sort of guides for the puck pusher. It just kinda rides in there and is held in place by a little brass arm in the long slotted hole. Everything is loose and nothing is binding but the metal just runs on the metal so there is going to be some sort of rubbing somewhere. I sprayed some silicone in there but it still makes a grinding noise every once in awhile.
I bought my 6-rack when they first came out. I blow out the wood chips with air, but I've never had mine apart. It's worked without problem since new, so this thread has been interesting for me to follow as I'm sure I'll have a problem eventually.
I spoke with Bradley Customer service this morning. The fellow was extremely helpful. They are sending me a new micro switch and motor. I hope this will solve my problem. I will post back when I receive the parts.
Quote from: renoman on January 13, 2014, 10:23:07 AM
I spoke with Bradley Customer service this morning. The fellow was extremely helpful. They are sending me a new micro switch and motor. I hope this will solve my problem. I will post back when I receive the parts.
There may be problems with some of our smokers but you can't fault their customer service.
Quote from: Saber 4 on January 13, 2014, 11:14:08 AM
Quote from: renoman on January 13, 2014, 10:23:07 AM
I spoke with Bradley Customer service this morning. The fellow was extremely helpful. They are sending me a new micro switch and motor. I hope this will solve my problem. I will post back when I receive the parts.
There may be problems with some of our smokers but you can't fault their customer service.
I totally agree Both the U.S. and Canada people have been very easy to work with.
Well I received my new motor/arm assembly and micro switch from Bradley today. Talked to them on Monday AM and got the delivery at noon on Thursday. Pretty quick I would say.
New motor
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2554Medium_zpsb1ad67be.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2554Medium_zpsb1ad67be.jpg.html)
To my surprise though they sent me the wrong switch. The one they sent has 3 wires and the one I need has 2. Called them up and another one is on the way.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2552Medium_zps0e1c24af.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2552Medium_zps0e1c24af.jpg.html)
Being the impatient guy that I am I decided to make the new switch work. The harnesses were soldered so out came the soldering iron and solder.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2555Medium_zps4541e4d4.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2555Medium_zps4541e4d4.jpg.html)
Here is the old harness soldered on to the new switch. The "normally closed" terminal on the new switch is not needed so I just put some heat shrink tube on it. In the old switch it is cut off inside of the switch.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2556Medium_zps6a7da6d1.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2556Medium_zps6a7da6d1.jpg.html)
Put the new switch and old harness back into it's spot on the puck advancer. Don't forget the spacer as it makes the switch line up with the brass roller on the arm assembly.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2557Medium_zpsa42880cf.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2557Medium_zpsa42880cf.jpg.html)
So I plugged it all back in and gave it a try. VOILA! Pushed the button at least 25 times and not a failure. I am a happy camper and back in business. So now I start thinking just what was the matter with the old switch. I pulled it apart to have a look.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2560Medium_zpse3db15ce.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2560Medium_zpse3db15ce.jpg.html)
In these close ups of the contact points you can see SOME pitting but VERY little. I have seen contacts that have been way worse than this that have still worked but I just can't see anything else in the switch that could be causing the problem.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2563copy_zps04cd1499.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2563copy_zps04cd1499.jpg.html)
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2565copy_zps708b5929.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2565copy_zps708b5929.jpg.html)
So after watching the thing perform flawlessly for many more times I noticed something and remembered what Brian from Bradley had written in our email exchange. I quote:"Now you have to keep in mind you are dealing with a small motor they will never stop in the same position each time especially when it is under load. If the motor does not stop directly on the micro switch the next time you turn it on it will advance once. If it stopped directly on the switch it will not advance at start up. The motor is designed to run in either direction this is for motor protection, if there is a jam in the system the motor will turn and run the opposite direction if it jams again it will send an E error and shut down. This is why sometimes the motor runs clockwise or counter clockwise." End quote. I didn't really understand what he was trying to say but now when the motor stops it never stops exactly on the switch. It is either on one side or the other as you can see in this pic.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2559Medium_zpse15430ab.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2559Medium_zpse15430ab.jpg.html)
In this pic from the old setup you can see that the motor arm would stop right on top of the switch and that happened many times.
(http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss74/renoman69/IMG_2538_zps06f2bf7e.jpg) (http://s563.photobucket.com/user/renoman69/media/IMG_2538_zps06f2bf7e.jpg.html)
So I am not sure what exactly I have learned other than how to strip down your Bradley SG and never to grab the puck element after it has been plugged in for 10 minutes. But I am back in business and want to thank Bradley and Brian for their help and very speedy service.
On edit: I did not install the new motor.
Thanks for sharing your info, great pictures as well. Hopefully your issue is solved, keep smokin'.
You're intense, renoman. Glad your up and running again.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Quote from: Smokesmore on January 16, 2014, 01:08:55 PM
You're intense, renoman. Glad your up and running again.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
When things don't work it drives me nuts ;D
Good stuff. Glad you got everything working. Time to start smoking something....
Renoman,
I was smoking cheese last night, checked the smoker about halfway into my cook and the third puck was sitting on the element close to an hour. I then advanced with he button and it worked the rest of the smoke. I wonder why I'm getting consecutive failures? Mine works most of the time, but when one gets "stuck" it stays there until I hit the button. Very frustrating...
Quote from: STLstyle on January 16, 2014, 04:38:27 PM
Renoman,
I was smoking cheese last night, checked the smoker about halfway into my cook and the third puck was sitting on the element close to an hour. I then advanced with he button and it worked the rest of the smoke. I wonder why I'm getting consecutive failures? Mine works most of the time, but when one gets "stuck" it stays there until I hit the button. Very frustrating...
Did it advance with one push of the button or numerous? If you watch my video you will see that it sometimes took four tries before it moved. That amounts to 80 minutes if you are relying on the 20 minute auto feeder.
A bit off subject but nonetheless have to do with the puck advance system. When you advance a puck to smoke does the smoker automatically reset to 20 minutes until the next puck is advanced?
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Quote from: Smokesmore on January 17, 2014, 10:14:47 AM
A bit off subject but nonetheless have to do with the puck advance system. When you advance a puck to smoke does the smoker automatically reset to 20 minutes until the next puck is advanced?
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
We touched on this a bit. I believe it resets to 20 minutes. I have 6 dummy pucks on the way to put this question to rest. As well as some others.
Just confirmed on the BDS it does pucks every 20 min no matter if you manually feed or not. When the timer hits 20, 40, 1 hour the advance goes.. I fed one in and 5 mins later it fed another because the smoke timer said 2:20.
Edit: FYI... used about 20 ft of Reynolds tinfoil and molded some dummy pucks. It worked like a charm. Takes a little man power to squeeze them but the bradley fed them without a problem.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Quote from: renoman on January 16, 2014, 12:38:30 PM
To my surprise though they sent me the wrong switch. The one they sent has 3 wires and the one I need has 2.
So I am not sure what exactly I have learned other than how to strip down your Bradley SG and never to grab the puck element after it has been plugged in for 10 minutes. But I am back in business and want to thank Bradley and Brian for their help and very speedy service.
I think the 3 wired switches are for the newer ones. I am pretty sure the pic you posted was the same as the one I have on mine.
And yeah, that puck burner gets pretty warm.