I've replaced the element, and it's getting electricity. Still no heat. Is there a way to test controller board or the heat sensor? Any help would be appreciated.
http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?960-Bradley-Smoker-FAQ-s try this site and see if you can trouble shoot from here.
Thanks manfromplaid. I did go through those, but unfortunately it didn't help. I did get some other good information from it though.
Bypass the smoker generator and plug the cooking chamber tower directly into a wall outlet for a few minutes and see if the heating element turns red. If it does, then there's a problem inside the SG - probably a loose connection.
Thanks Ted. I did that too. I know there's nothing wrong with the power cord because the smoke generator is working fine. I tried backing off on the slider switch so as not to be in that dead spot that I read about.
First double check to make sure the wires are firmly attached to the element on both ends.
Did you see the FAQ on how to change the element. Sometimes when you replace the element there is a tendency to pull the element out too far before disconnecting the wires. This can cause the wire on the back plug to be disconnected. To correct that you need to take the back off the cabinet, and reconnect the wire(s).
How to change the heating element. (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?959-How-do-I-change-the-heating-element)
If your pilot light next to the slider does not work, that is a good sign that it is something other than the element. If it is just a bad element, the pilot light will continue to work. The other issue could be you may have had a good element, but the in-line fuse was blown, or the heat sensor has tripped and didn't reset.
The pilot light isn't coming on. I'll check the inline fuse with a meter, looking at it, it looks fine. Is there a way to test the heat sensor?
Thanks again for all the feedback. I appreciate it.
Put your meter probes to each connection on the sensor and test for continuity through it.
You can't tell if the fuse is still good by looking at it. Use the same test for the in-line fuse. If you don't have a meter, use a 14 gauge wire or greater, to temporarily by past the fuse. Use the by past for testing only.
It would appear that the fuse is bad. I'm going to order another one now. And apparently I changed the heating element when I didn't need to. Oh well... That's ok. I didn't need that $20 anyway.
Thanks again for the help. Hopefully we're done here...
Quote from: crabwise on April 05, 2016, 04:25:29 PM
It would appear that the fuse is bad. I'm going to order another one now. And apparently I changed the heating element when I didn't need to. Oh well... That's ok. I didn't need that $20 anyway.
Thanks again for the help. Hopefully we're done here...
Hang onto that other element. You may decide to do the dual element mod someday. ;)
Great!
You should be up and running in no time.