found and installed a new 900 watt heating element for my smoker once i get some pics of the install i will post them here though here is the picture of the element and link
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?operator=keywordSearch&search_type=keyword&QueryString=4e266&submit.x=20&submit.y=12[flash=200,200][flash=200,200]
http://images.grainger.com/images/products/2E925.JPG
That looks interesting. Are you going to tie that in to the existing wiring of the cabinet. If so I would be very interested in installing one also. If that can be tied into the current wiring, that would be ideal because the Raptor/Guru would be able to control both heating elements.
actually I have replaced the orginal heater with that one and added a blower motor to take care of air flow so far working great need to get pictures to show
Sound good. That almost doubles your heat output. I hope you post your results on any improvement on performance.
Beefman
That's very interesting. I'm been looking at those very same finned strip heaters and thinking the same thing. I too would be very interested in your results and photos. If you are familiar with my permanent cold smoke setup I have thought about installing an element similar to the one you mentioned into my cold smoke setup (not in the main tower). This could have a lot of advantages because there would be no heater in the main tower whatsoever.
On another note, I was thinking how a lot of people use a brick or two to help in temp recovery. I was thinking along the lines of using a small block of steel with a cartridge heater mounted into it. You could use 2 blocks of steel each with a 150 watt cartridge heater in them and have them sitting on each side at the front of the cabinet to distribute the heat better. They could probably be plugged in direct and run full time and the main heater could continue to be used in conjunction with a PID. It would add a 300 watt boost to the heating capacity without effecting the existing wiring in the unit.
Just kinda thinking out loud......
Keep us posted
Mike
I was just thinking; after you have been using your setup for awhile; if you could also post if the extra heat has any effects the bisquettes, and/or the rate the water evaporates from the pan and if that creates any moisture issues.
hello all
I am unable to load pictures to this site as well as photobucket for what ever reason, however I am willing to send pictures to any one who wants to see them, As for the information I have made this mod. this last week and have not done a smoke with the new mod. However in the new configuration it takes 1/4 of the time to heat to the desired temp of 250 with an outside temp of 50. my experiance is less then 5 to 7 mins mins to be at 250 f with the new heater and 20 to 30 mins with the old heater you caan watch the pid climb in tempture every few seconds 1 degree.
some of this is a combination of a higher heating element as well as the fins that are on it..
am planning to do a 10 lb ham for easter with my seasoning as well as orange soda in a pan infront of the fan to see how the evaperation would work.
this heater element comes in several sizes with the lowest being 350 watt and 120 volt and the highest being 1500 watt and 120 volt...
for thoes of you who can upload the pictures for me or want to take a look at them .. e mail me at
[email protected] and in the subject line put "beefmann heater mod" and i will send pictures
thanks
beefmann
I sent you an email. Would be happy to post them. Very interesting string here and am sure many of us are interested in the outcome.
oohhh 1 thing i did forget to say is that i am using the existing wireing from the orginal heating element to power the new one, and the blower is powered seperatly from the smoke generator. I have put in a selector switch to choose between the smoke generator and PID / fan / heat side.
I do recomend that with this type taht a PID is installed and used. I use the pid with no external ssr and after 10 hours of testing and montering it will work just fine.
load accross the PID for the heater is 7.5 amp and the blower an additional amp though it is not contorlled through the PID
the total load max on my BS is at 8.5 amp @ 120 volts and I added another switch to choose between smoke or heat. very nice config
Quote from: beefmann on March 16, 2008, 04:20:08 PM
oohhh 1 thing i did forget to say is that i am using the existing wireing from the orginal heating element to power the new one, and the blower is powered seperatly from the smoke generator.
beefman,
May want to keep an eye on the internal wiring; you are drawing nearly twice the current powering the new element (500 -> 900 watts).
Arcs_n_Sparks
arcs,
has checked internal wirening and it is 18 gage to the heater and 16 else where
18 gage is good for 10 amps and the heater draws 7.5 amps as per calcs and confirmed with an amp meter
thanks for your concern
Beefmann
Quote from: beefmann on March 16, 2008, 05:23:59 PM
thanks for your concern
Just want to keep the blackened part on the inside :D
After some hours on it, may want to check the crimp connections for any overheating signs. There have been some instances of poor crimps...
alright will keep an eye on it... thanks for the heads up
HERE ARE THE PHOTOS FOR BEEFMANN"S INSTALLATION - He can add the commentary. ;)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k18/WCK_02/dsc00912.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k18/WCK_02/dsc00911.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k18/WCK_02/dsc00910.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k18/WCK_02/dsc00909.jpg)
;D 8)
I might worry a bit about grease dripping close to the back wall where the shroud is open but meat on racks would be straight above. May want to add a deflector ???
I think ya got some clean spots on the inside. Thats not right :) :) :)
So is this setup pulling air in and up, or down and out?
it is pulled in from under the drip tray and up along the back of the smoker
West Coast Kansan
thanks for posting the pictures
beefmann
Quote from: beefmann on March 16, 2008, 08:03:06 PM
West Coast Kansan
thanks for posting the pictures
beefmann
Thanks for supplying the pictures and information.
Photobucket it one of the easier hosting sites to use. I hope this helps you the next time you want to post pictures.
Once you get your account open. Go to the left side of the screen, and create a new album. You can give it any name; then click save. After it creates an album, it will open it up. This is where you want to load the pictures showing the new heater.
Look at the upload window on the right side of the screen, and make sure that the tab "Images from MY PC" is selected. Just below that tab you will see in very small print "max image size ---- x----- options". If the size is not 640x800 click on options and select that size. Click on save. The size 600x800 also works.
Next click on Browse, navigate to the folder on your computer that you stored the pictures and select a file. Repeat this process until you have all the files loaded. If you want the pictures to come up in chronological order, load the pictures in the reverse order you've taken them.
After the pictures have uploaded. You just need to click on the box underneath each images that you want to post.
Once you have selected the images scroll to the bottom of the page and click on "Generated HTML, Ebay and IMG Code". This will take you to another page. Click inside the box either "IMG images for message boards" or "IMG clickable thumbnails for message boards - recommended". This will automatically copy the codes into your clipboard.
If you been successful up to this point, you now only need to paste these codes inside your message.
whooooaaa. How about the specs on the blower???? I have a circ fan that does an decent job, however, this looks like the big daddy version. May we have the details please?
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4MH21
there is the link to the blower, wire it so that it runs on high to provide enough air flow over the heater, the one i have does run very warm to hot even with the heating element being off just the nature of the beast as well as having a fan attached on the motor inside the mounting part between the motor and shroud externally to the BS.
one thing I will also add has ran this blower motor for 4 months every weekend for at least 7 hours plus 4 -24 hour runs. 2 with just the fan ann 2 with the old bradley heater first day at 180 annd second at 230 held stedyand still going strong with no signs of it operating outside of its heat pariaminters.. it is designed for high out put heaters to begin with. also with the new heater gets to temp of 180 or 190 in about 5 or 6 mins 250 in under 10
Hi Beefman
I hope you don't take this the wrong way and I certainly don't intend this to be anything but constructive, I thought I would post some of my observations on your project.
A cage style blower is a larger volume type blower. Although I think your setup will provide more than enough heat, I wonder if the volume of air will be an issue. You could install a switch to control the volume of the air if it is too high.
I also agree with WCK's comment regarding the possibility that grease could drip down into the shroud opening which could be a potential problem. Certainly building a deflector could resolve this.
Mike
Beefman
One other question... Do you know if the finned strip heater you used is required to have a certain air flow over it, in order for it to not overheat and burn out?
I'm just curios because as I indicated earlier I had also looked at this strip heater.
Mike
mike
i have installed a switch on mine for a high low configurition as for volume im not sure what the requirement is on the finned heater i used. As for the grease dripping onto it i will watch out for it and see what i come up with.. might get another piece of metal and have it bent again and where the top opening is bend it to where the drippings wont interfear with the heater
So how is it working is it worth putting a fin heater in and can I just change my Bradley heater to a fin heater so I can cook foods through quicker
W E L C O M E to the forum careff!
I was under the impession that the higher capacity heater had more to do with getting up to temp faster and recovering from door opens faster than cooking faster. Most of the food I smoke I want to cook low and slow - higher heat and faster cooking makes for tough pulled pork, IMHO.
It would be nice to have that extra heat. The extra heat does give you a lot more options as to how you could use your Bradley for poultry, prime rib, top loin, and other foods you would like to cook at a higher temperature. You would just need to remember to keep the smoker under 320°F, so you don't blow the high temperature fuse.
Yes thats what I been thinking maybe doing a roast or something bigger than what I have been doing. I have been making Beer, pepperion,farmer sausage and smokies out of deer all winter at sometimes 30 to 40 below. Now I a'm ready to start on a roast or something bigger but I would like to finish in the Bradley in cold temperatures or even speed up the process.
based on my experiance with over 125 hours on the finned heater it will almost double the heat volume... with the 900 watt finned heater @ 50' f to 190 took about 10 minutes... and has hit 350 in about 20 to 25 mins @ 50 to 55 f.... with the 500 watt element mine never went above 220 on a 55' f day.
just be sure that you haave plenty of air flow over the heater and try to avoid dripping grease onto a hot element.
a fan or blower will help with air flow though i would recomend placing the fan/blower below the heater ... heat rises and makes more sense to have the blower / fan closer to the bottom
Yes I already installed a small fan inside and out which I picked up on the Bradley post awhile ago. It really changed the heat temperature so I could control it better. The meat did cook faster and the time did drop alot, still cooking slow enough that create a good sausage. I would like to be able smoke and then cook something through like a roast or large item. Right now it is border line on being cooked completely with the basic element that comes with it.
careff,
I have had the same problem.. that is why I went with the 900 watt finned heater and a PID controller it makes a HUGE difference you can set the tempture lower and above your IT goal while still slow cooking. I typically cook between 190 and 220 with a 5 to 8 degree swing. and the top vent being open 1 /2 way if i want a drier less moist piece of meat. If i want it moist then the vent is closed with a tray of water / orange juice / orange soda or any other liquid to help keep the moisture up with zero problems in the bradley.
just do a light cleaning to remove any splatter and your done
wheres da beef
Thanks Beefmann
See you got the 900 heater from Grainger what about the pid? I looked at another post and they made one but it is alittle confusing and looks time consuming. Would I need anything else besides the heat element and the PID controller or is there more accessories that go with the PID
So am I correct in stating the 900 watt finned heater will not work just as a replacement heater for the bradley. By that I mean one would have to install a fan of some sort to insure enough flow past the fins? I would be very interested in replacing the bradley heater with the higher wattage heater but have no plans at this time to add a fan/blower.
careff,
here is a link for information on the PID
http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?s=0e02a7c5b9a60e667267d8842db2be36&t=315
what i had done was by passed the front slide controll of the bs and connected thoes wires directly to the heater.. traced the other ends out while adding about a foot of 16 gage .. maybe longer .. enough anyway to make it inside and to the pid on the smoke generator ( you will need to follow the wiring driections provided by auber) i did get the relay version and not the ssr
and you would have to mount a thermocouple from the inside of the be to the pid and power .. fairly simple.
i did the compleat mod including cutting the hole for the pid in the smoke generator in about an hour and half
Pensrock
according to graingers website there is no air flow required on the 900 ... how ever on higher watterage heaters there is air flow required.
as well as these finned heaters can be used in the food heating / prep industry... I would recomend watching closly if you do not use a fan. the heater upper tempture is 1200' f it might warp the back panel of the bs and short its self out
Thanks Beefmann I will look into it do you have any pictures?
careff,
here are the pictures of my heater mod
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=7203.0
I think I'll take a closer look at them. I can always find a small piece of insulation board at work to put between the heater and the back panel on the tower if it looks like it would be a problem. Also since I can ramp up and down temp with my PID controller, I can always slow the heat up a little if necessary. I think it will work fine as is. Thanks for the help. Do you happen to have a Grainger part number handy?
pens
I think this is the part number 4E266 - Heres a link
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?operator=keywordSearch&search_type=keyword&QueryString=finned+heater
C
Just wondering what everybody thinks about the plug and play pid
I have been using one for 8 months and worth every penny... I would not smoke with out one.
keeps the tempture where you set it with the 500 watt heater and with the finned heater typically +/- 8 f with a 70 outside temp. ( that is the nature of the 900 watt finned heater )
Thanks Beefmann
I will probably go for the 900 fin heater and the plug and play just don't know when I will let you know and will probably have a few more questions
Careff
any time careff