hey all just an update on the 900 watt heater mod. all is working with no problems and plenty of heat to spare been cooking at 220 f and did push the heat to 350 once on chicken to crispen the skin with no problem. No problems with any connections , over heating of wiring or controlls.
this is something i would recomend to any one who wants a faster recovery on heat in the box or just additional heat capicity.
on my next smoke i am plaanning to add lava rock in the bottom of the smoker and get away from the v tray.
as for the problems with the dripping onto the heater I think it caaan be a good item to have happin it adds flavor to the meat cooking and caan be easily cleaned with a stramer like the stanley steamer or stream shark ... takes longer to get the water to steam then to clean...ps might have some greasy rags when you get done but oooohhh the flavor
(http://usera.imagecave.com/beefmann/smoker/dsc00912.jpg)
(http://usera.imagecave.com/beefmann/smoker/dsc00911.jpg)
(http://usera.imagecave.com/beefmann/smoker/dsc00910.jpg)
(http://usera.imagecave.com/beefmann/smoker/dsc00909.jpg)
Thanks for the update Beefmann. Makes me wonder why Bradley didn't push up the capacity on their element on their unit?
Quoteproblems with the dripping onto the heater
900 watt heater mode sounds good beefmann. :)
Might be worth bearing in mind there have been a couple of reported fires in BS's here on the forum, seem to remember Chez Bubba saying they were due to inverted / missing "V" pans! :o
I could understand that a fire could arise from a missing v pan that helps protect the heater, it is my opinion that a dirty heater could lead to the fire. only thing i can say is KEEP THE HEATER CLEAN! ! it doesent take that long to clean it.
Quote from: manxman on May 06, 2008, 01:07:21 AM
Quoteproblems with the dripping onto the heater
900 watt heater mode sounds good beefmann. :)
Might be worth bearing in mind there have been a couple of reported fires in BS's here on the forum, seem to remember Chez Bubba saying they were due to inverted / missing "V" pans! :o
Fat dripping on a hot burner makes be think grease fire too! :'(
Beefmann,
I wish you very well but that thing just scares the hell out of me. Please keep us posted on your success.
KyNola
Beefman, you must be related to Tim "The Toolman" Taylor. Hope you don't end up in the hospital like he did on many ocassions. ;D ;D
RRRR RRRR RRRR ... more power more power.... next time flame thrower to make a turker a crispy critter
:D :D :D You Go Brother ;D
I think just using a finned heating element in the same place as the original would still keep the heater under the drip pan , but still work better because you would heat the air and cause a convection current that would slowly turn the air over, versus the infrared one that heats the metal. I thought I would try it one day, right now my oven is too new, and I dont want to ruin it, yet.
hooked,
when you are ready for the upgrade to a finned heater... DO IT along with a PID controller to controll the heat you would be happy that you did... the PID controlles the tempture and with the 900 watt finned it has typically has a 5 to 8 degree swing
Hooked on Smoke,
That's my plans now, I have the 900w heater and hardware on my desk. I plan to install where the stock heater was, use the V pan, and check temps at 3 levels to see if all is well, or do I need a fan. I have a Pid controller, and a dual probe Maverick.
I'll feed back next week sometime.
The heater will be nice for speed in putting out heat when it is called upon. The PID will call for heat on a more timely basis than the standard control scheme. The fan will move the air around inside the tower (may help use the heat off the back of the tower better) but the actual cooking temp will still be influenced by the load arrangement / the amount of meat - mass, the temp of the mass and exactly where the temps are taken relative to all of the above.
I still have not taken the modification plunge... let us know how it goes and just how much of a difference it makes. I seem to be looking for an excuse but having trouble justify the fun ::)
My kinda guy - more power rrrrr....rrrrrr.....rrrrrr
I have yet to do the mod myself yet. Have the parts but not the time.
Shakespeare
The Bard of Hot Aire
Threadkiller Extraordinaire'
I did the heater upgrade but left the drip tray intact
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a377/BluePress/100_2854.jpg)
LTS
Where did you get the heater at.
nepas
Pretty sure you can get then at Grainger, or try Johnstone supply at 25th and Dearborn st
Graingers
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4E266 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4E266)
Stainless Steel Finned Strip Heater, Voltage Rating 120 Volts, Power Rating 900 Watts, Overall Length 12 Inches, Mounting Dimension 11 Inches
Grainger Item # 4E266
Price (ea.) $45.25
Brand VULCAN
Mfr. Model # OSF1512-900A
Ship Qty. 1
Sell Qty. (Will-Call) 1
Ship Weight (lbs.) 1.25
Usually Ships** Today
Catalog Page No. 3852
hey all,
after a year after making the 900 watt heater mod, over 700 hours of smoking / cooking and several weekends of smoking at a hotel the 900 watt heater mod was the best move i have ever made with the smoker...with no problems... I would recomend it to any one.
only one note...
KEEP IT CLEAN... KEEP IT CLEAN ... KEEP IT CLEAN
beef
Wow, that's a lot of hours!
I have smoked 3 or 4 times post my 900W heater, and it works great! Temps are a little uneven top to bottom, but I am running NO FAN at this time. Plan to install the Granger fan above the heater and V Pan location.
star,
Glad to hear about your mod working as good as it does and your right about the temp difference .. and that is why i have a blower in mine
Beef
Has anyone done the mod on a BDS?
I have the 900w heater, but was hesitant installing it. Not sure if the electronics would stand the extra load. May have to use a relay and separate power.
look at the specs of the controller,, if it is rated at 120 volts . 10 amps or higher your safe. also directly wire from the controller to the heater bypassing the over temp on the back of the smoker as the heater will eventually burn it up. also if you havea slide controll on the front dont use it as the digital controll will handle the heater
Beef
Thanks Beef, I'll look for that.
Quote from: beefmann on April 12, 2009, 06:48:29 PM
look at the specs of the controller,, if it is rated at 120 volts . 10 amps or higher your safe. also directly wire from the controller to the heater bypassing the over temp on the back of the smoker as the heater will eventually burn it up. also if you havea slide controll on the front dont use it as the digital controll will handle the heater
Beef
Beef, I set-up my 900 watt heater, and I think I burned out my temp sensor from what you said??? Can you tell me a way to diagnose it? This thing was working great after about 3 runs (5-8 hours each run). I don't have a PID. Is there a different way to bypass??? Do I need a PID???
Thanks for your help!
Quote from: Cowbell on September 04, 2016, 09:35:18 PM
Quote from: beefmann on April 12, 2009, 06:48:29 PM
look at the specs of the controller,, if it is rated at 120 volts . 10 amps or higher your safe. also directly wire from the controller to the heater bypassing the over temp on the back of the smoker as the heater will eventually burn it up. also if you havea slide controll on the front dont use it as the digital controll will handle the heater
Beef
Beef, I set-up my 900 watt heater, and I think I burned out my temp sensor from what you said??? Can you tell me a way to diagnose it? This thing was working great after about 3 runs (5-8 hours each run). I don't have a PID. Is there a different way to bypass??? Do I need a PID???
Thanks for your help!
plug the tower directly into an outlet... " Not through the smoke generator" and see if the element warms up.. if not .. check to see if you have any power at the element,... if no power there .. it could be the temp sensor or the fuse able link on the back of the unit...
if the heater does heat up with the tower directly plug into the outlet then the issue is inside the smoke generator... check the fuse and for loose connections...
if you find any bad items .. replace as necessary
yes i do recommend a pid with the use of a 900 watt element.. along with a ssr that can handle the load of the element.. typically a 25 amp ssr would do,,, or you can buy one prebuilt that can handle 1800 watts and your good to go