Lost heat in the middle of smoking my butt - Mystery Solved!

[12AMNSX]

I put my pork butt in my OBS at 10:00 PM last night for an all night smoke and everything was going fine.  This morning I lowered the temp slightly as things were getting a little too hot.  Soon afterward I noticed the temp kept dropping.  Then I noticed that the power indicator for the smoke box was off.  I moved the temp control back to the far right and the light still didn't come on.  The heating element was also not glowing red.  I checked the fuse and power to all locations and everything has power.  I also unplugged everything and plugged it back in again.  Even plugged the box directly into power and still nothing.  I am guessing that the circuit board or the heating element went out.  Any idea which may be the cause?  Seems strange to have lost heat in the middle of the smoke.  

[classicrockgriller]

Did you spill any water on your slide bar?

[FLBentRider]

If you are electrically inclined, meter both sides of the element and see if you have continuity, and or ac volts.

[12AMNSX]

Did you spill any water on your slide bar?

Well, possibly.  The temp was already heading down after slightly lowering the temp so I slid the control all the way back to high.  A short time later I added some water to the pan and when doing so I did spill a small amount.  Not sure where the water went.  But I think the element wasn't heating before I added the water.

If you are electrically inclined, meter both sides of the element and see if you have continuity, and or ac volts.

I have a volt/amp meter and follow directions pretty well.  Do I need to take the element out to test it?  If so, how is that done.  If not, where do I attach the probes?

[Mr Walleye]

Disconnect the power and use an ohm meter to across the 2 ends of the element. The white ceramic caps on the ends of the element just screw off. Be careful when you re tighten them because you don't want to break them.

You didn't indicate how high the temps was when you felt it was too high. The reason I ask is because there is a self setting high temp switch built into the back of the OBS. If your heat goes high enough it will trigger this switch. I can't remember but I think it won't cut back in until around 150 degrees. Has the unit cooled off? Have you tried to fire it back up again? Make sure you Unplug and replug your plugins several times as well.

Mike

[12AMNSX]

The temp was heading past 215* and I wanted to lower it back to around 205*.  It is now cooled off and I re-plugged everything in several times.  Do I need to remove the brackets on each side of the element to remove it?

[Mr Walleye]

You do have to remove the ceramic caps in order to get access to the terminal ends of the element. You want to check the element for continuity.

Those temps should not of triggered the high limit switch.

Mike

[Mr Walleye]

Another thing you could try is to bypass you temp slider. This will tell you if the circuit board for the temp slider is fried. You will have to remove the plastic trim panel on the front bottom of the cabinet.

Here is a link to a photo from another member showing how he bypassed the slider.
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=12617.msg148511#msg148511

Mike

[BuyLowSellHigh]

Make sure you have power to the outlet into which it is plugged - if it's an outdoor outlet it probably is connected through a GFI and they can get fussy at times.

[Quarlow]

Try plugging into an outlet inside the house to see if you are having trouble with a GFCI. Also try to plug your cabinet straight in to an outlet and see if your heating element comes on, by bypassing the temp slider you will know if it is the sliders circuit board.

[12AMNSX]

OK, here is the solution:

I talked to Brian at Bradley who was very helpful.  Here is what he told me to do:

1. Test the various connections using continuity, not voltage.  He said testing voltage can give you weird results, and I can attest that he is right.

2. First test the over limit sensor by pushing the black rubber aside.  I just took off the two small nuts and checked it that way.  All is good.

3. Test the in line fuse next to the black rubber block.  AH HA  Here is the problem.  No continuity, fuse is bad.

4. He also said to check the continuity of the heating element.  It should be about 30 ohms.  I was able to just poke the probes in through the holes where the wires go in.  All OK, about 30 ohms.

The fuse was only about $2.00 and they are shipping out today.  I also ordered 4 more racks for the extra jerky, a new front cover because mine is cracked like everyone's, two back feet to install on the front to fix the problem for good, and the little plastic knobs that attached (and fell off) the temp slider and vent.  Soon I'll be up and running like new!   

As an aside, I put the butt into a large crock pot and cooked it slow for another 8 hours or so.  Came out yum! 

[KevinG]

That's awsome, glad to hear you'll be up and running in no time. Bradley support is the best!!!

[ArnieM]

I'm glad the problem is resolved.  Wow, $2 for a fuse.  Brian is a great guy; best customer service I've run into.

The fuse was only about $2.00 and they are shipping out today.  I also ordered 4 more racks for the extra jerky, a new front cover because mine is cracked like everyone's, two back feet to install on the front to fix the problem for good, and the little plastic knobs that attached (and fell off) the temp slider and vent.  Soon I'll be up and running like new!

This reminds me of "Jack up the radiator cap and slide a new car under it."

[classicrockgriller]

He really hasn't done that bad with his OBS considering that he got it in '07.

(If my calculations are right)

[12AMNSX]

I agree.  Considering how much the smoker cost in the first place, I shouldn't have any of these problems within 3 years.  Overall my experience has been good, but I think they have some quality control/engineering issues to work through.