Author Topic: 2nd inline fuse wirering  (Read 8365 times)

Offline Toker

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2nd inline fuse wirering
« on: July 03, 2010, 01:03:39 AM »
Hi everyone, i recently bought a 2ND in-line fuse (orange cable for OBS) to install with my 2ND element but could someone please tell me where or how to wire it? My plan is to bypass the slider bar. I already know for the 2ND element directly on the plug but I'M not sure where to plug the in-line fuse on the plug. I know there are 3 spots on the plug 2 for the elements on both ends but i don't know for the 2ND fuse. THX.

P.S. i did not added any switch only 2ND element and bypassing the slider bar.
« Last Edit: July 03, 2010, 01:07:16 AM by toker »

Offline Habanero Smoker

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2010, 01:52:06 AM »
Here is a link to Test Rocket's installation, but he also installed a second high temperature switch. The in-line fuse is connected to the neutral wire that is between the element and the power source.

TestRocket's Second H/L Switch & In-Line Fuse

I forgot to mention the white wire is  the neutral wire.


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Offline Toker

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2010, 02:03:11 AM »
So both in-line fuses at the same place with a female spade connector? I think i understood thx habs always a plasure to be answered by you  ;)

Offline Habanero Smoker

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #3 on: July 03, 2010, 02:25:57 AM »
Yes! But I'm not sure how well the in-line fuse will work without it being connected to the high temperature sensor. I'm sure that one of our electrical members will be able to provide more information.


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Offline Toker

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2010, 02:27:45 AM »
I forgot to mention i also bought the 2nd black sensor did not know how to call it sorry. When i said no switch, i meant the on/off switch for the 2ND element like you added sorry for the confusion.
« Last Edit: July 03, 2010, 03:40:26 AM by toker »

Offline TestRocket

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #5 on: July 03, 2010, 07:47:47 PM »
Hello toker,

Sorry for the late reply. I’m 400 miles from home and our internet connection hasn’t been as good as described. Habanero Smoker has given you the link to my upgrade and if you have any other questions please ask here or PM me and I’ll help you anyway I can! Forgive any slowness in my replies!

Offline Habanero Smoker

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #6 on: July 04, 2010, 01:05:21 AM »
You should be all set. You have the proper parts, and TestRocket is on standby.


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Offline Toker

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #7 on: July 04, 2010, 02:07:11 AM »
Please if i can ask, you know the 2ND element, inside the insulator (NOT on the side), do you pass the high temp wire through the same hole (the big one on the middle) than the 1ST? Reason I'M asking, it's because with the ring connector for the 1ST element, the remaining space seems a little bit limited and someone told me that the wire for the 2ND element can not touch anything metal and the ring connector take most of the space.

p.s. the high temp wire that i bought for the 2ND element is 14 gauge 10 ft long hope its long enough.
« Last Edit: July 04, 2010, 03:01:19 AM by toker »

Offline Mr Walleye

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #8 on: July 04, 2010, 06:48:29 AM »
Hi Toker

You are correct. The 2nd element wire does pass through the centre hole of the rear portion of the ceramic insulator along with the original wire. From there the wire passed through the notch in the ceramic cap (you have to grind the notch in the ceramic cap). It is a little tight but there is room for both wires.

In this photo you can see how I ground a notch in the ceramic cap for the existing heater element. For the notch in the ceramic element cap I used a bench grinder (on an angle using the corner of the stone), I'm sure a rat tail file would work as well, just be careful not to break the cap.




Mike

Click On The Smoker For Our Time Tested And Proven Recipes


Offline Toker

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #9 on: July 04, 2010, 02:24:38 PM »
So, even if the 2ND high temp wire touch the ring connector of the 1ST element it does not matter? It is not dangerous? THX for the reply.

Offline TestRocket

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2010, 02:39:20 PM »
Right, even if he high temp wire touches the ring lug of the other element you are OK. It is a tight fit getting the new wires to the second element but the high temp wire can handle it. Good Luck!

Offline Toker

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #11 on: July 04, 2010, 02:45:57 PM »
Alright! now I'M sure of myself THX TestRocket!  ;D OUF! i feel better this way, I've been looking a way to handle the situation for hours without success. I should have post long before. THX anyway. Once again your pictures are wonderfull and helpfull.

Offline Habanero Smoker

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #12 on: July 05, 2010, 01:24:09 AM »
Ten feet of wire should be plenty. I started with ten feel, left a lot a play in the wiring I installed (which I didn't need to do) and still had about two feet left over. So that should be enough for the switch and the high temperature switch.

As others have mentioned, as long as the wire is insulated, it can come in contact with metal or other wires.


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Offline Toker

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #13 on: July 07, 2010, 04:18:18 AM »
OK, one last question, i know that for the OBS to hook up the 2ND element i need to disconnect the 2 neutrals that goes into the faceplate. I understand witch ones and how, but once they are off the faceplate and tied together, where do i have to plug them on the plug if i want to keep my indicator light to work? On witch slot? I know where to plug the in-line fuse and the 2ND element, that is all i need to know before asking my friend to make the job for me. THX for your indulgence for my stupids questions I'M ULTRA SLOW TO UNDERSTAND I KNOW! :( (so shy to ask something like that really sorry)

Offline Habanero Smoker

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Re: 2nd inline fuse wirering
« Reply #14 on: July 07, 2010, 01:05:05 PM »
I don't considered that being slow, I consider it being cautious and getting things right the first time.

To by past the slider control, and make sure the pilot light works, leave the neutral wire connected to the light; also leave the red wire connected. Disconnect the double wire, and the single wire from the circuit board. You will need to connect those three neutral wires together. The easiest way would be to cut off the spade connectors and use a wire nut to reconnect all three together.


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