how to change heating element

Started by jack and coke, February 23, 2011, 09:06:21 AM

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thirtydaZe

Quote from: TedEbear on March 20, 2011, 07:36:57 AM

Also, the how-to says to route the high temp wires to the back of the cabinet, where you have two wires on each side passing through the back of the cooking chamber.  I just did a short 4" or so loop of wire from the second element to the first one. Really no need to go further than that.


just a simple daisy chain?

can you elaborate more on how you did this?

DBS 6 Rack
Auber PID 1202 Dual Probe
Yoder Cheyenne 16

TedEbear

Quote from: thirtydaZe on March 21, 2011, 09:50:59 AMjust a simple daisy chain?

can you elaborate more on how you did this?

There's not a whole lot to it.  It is wired in parallel, the same as when the second element wire is extended all the way out to the plug on the back of the cabinet, like in the how-to. I just connected each wire that came off the second element to the end of the original element via a short 4 inch or so piece of high temp wire that I bought from an appliance store.  The two primary element wires are the only ones that pass through the cooking chamber back wall.

I crimped an uninsulated ring terminal on each end of the wire, attached one end to the second element and the other end to the first element.  I used a Dremel to carve a little groove in the porcelain insulators for the wire to pass through.  I believe it mentions this part in the how-to.


thirtydaZe

so essentially positive to positive and negative to negative?

has this given you any problems?  i had asked about this one time on the forum and someone thought against the idea.

seems like the simple solution.  i run my smoker with a pid so i can't really see why there would be an issue running 1000w.

thanks for your post.

DBS 6 Rack
Auber PID 1202 Dual Probe
Yoder Cheyenne 16

Habanero Smoker

Just something to consider. The Bradley was not build to handle 1000 watts at one time, so there is some question as to whether on not the temperature control switch can frequently handle 1000 watts. Although you have the PID to control the end temperature, the PID will run the appliance at full capacity until the desired temperature is reached.

Another thing to consider, is the second switch. As Gus pointed out it does come in handy.



     I
         don't
                   inhale.
  ::)

TedEbear

Quote from: thirtydaZe on March 21, 2011, 10:32:09 AM
so essentially positive to positive and negative to negative?

has this given you any problems?  i had asked about this one time on the forum and someone thought against the idea.

I've used mine 4-5 times so far since I added the second element and no problems.  The total current draw for the 1000W 'bank' of elements is 8.3A.  That's not counting the 125W smoke generator element, which would add approximately 1A more.  Other things such as the PID controller and puck advance motor draw a minuscule amount of current and will not have any significant influence in the overall power requirements.  The link to this wire capacity chart for basic circuits shows that 18 ga wire size is good for up to 10A.

On mine I removed the 10A inline fuse that was in the back of the cabinet but I kept the high temp sensor as a safety item.  I replaced the 10A fuse in the SG box with a 15A.  Everything goes through it first (SG, PID, elements). 

I do suggest installing a PID controller to anyone who is thinking about adding a second element.  I mine inside the SG but I wanted to keep things externally simple. Thus, I didn't add a bunch of extra switches, lights, etc. to make it look like a space shuttle control console.   :)  There is a simple on/off LED rocker switch added for the PID power and that's it.  You said you have one so you're covered.


thirtydaZe

Quote from: Habanero Smoker on March 21, 2011, 12:55:47 PM
Just something to consider. The Bradley was not build to handle 1000 watts at one time, so there is some question as to whether on not the temperature control switch can frequently handle 1000 watts. Although you have the PID to control the end temperature, the PID will run the appliance at full capacity until the desired temperature is reached.

Another thing to consider, is the second switch. As Gus pointed out it does come in handy.

when i use my DBS with my PID all i turn on is the SG portion.  the side that runs the tower is never tyurned on.  so essentially my PID is doing all the work for the heating element, and the SG is just doing the puck heater.

the 1000w shouldn't affect anything in that case should it, as the PID is doing all the contrilling???

DBS 6 Rack
Auber PID 1202 Dual Probe
Yoder Cheyenne 16

Habanero Smoker

I don't have the digital so I can't answer your question. The concern is with the OBS. It is not the wiring that I am referring to that may not withstand continuous 1000w. It is the circuit board that use as the rheostat to control the amount of power to the element. Some have by past the wiring to the circuit board.




     I
         don't
                   inhale.
  ::)

TedEbear

On mine the rheostat no longer controls anything.  I took it out of the circuit when I added the PID controller. I kept the little light that is next to it to still come on when the heating elements are being energized, like it did originally.


PrairieSailor

Thanks for all this info.  Still waiting after almost 3 weeks for my replacement.  This is very sad.  For this many failures, and such a lengthy time to get the parts. 

Habanero Smoker

Quote from: PrairieSailor on April 06, 2011, 09:15:08 AM
Thanks for all this info.  Still waiting after almost 3 weeks for my replacement.  This is very sad.  For this many failures, and such a lengthy time to get the parts. 

If the parts are coming from Bradley, most receive their parts within 4 days. I would make a follow up call, the parts may have been lost in shipment or maybe sent to a wrong address.



     I
         don't
                   inhale.
  ::)

wyoduke

Quote from: Habanero Smoker on April 07, 2011, 02:09:04 AM
Quote from: PrairieSailor on April 06, 2011, 09:15:08 AM
Thanks for all this info.  Still waiting after almost 3 weeks for my replacement.  This is very sad.  For this many failures, and such a lengthy time to get the parts. 

If the parts are coming from Bradley, most receive their parts within 4 days. I would make a follow up call, the parts may have been lost in shipment or maybe sent to a wrong address.
Habs i think they are on back-order right now .
1 OBS
1 BRINKMAN
1 ROYAL JOKE
1 Smoke Daddy
1 Brinkman smoker grill
1 Green Mountain Grill

Tenpoint5

The last I heard they were taking all of the possibly bad elements out of inventory. So I am guessing the manufacturer is late in delivering the new ones for customer warranty replacement!
Bacon is the Crack Cocaine of the Food World.

Be careful about calling yourself and EXPERT! An ex is a has-been, and a spurt is a drip under pressure!

Sam3

#27
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but this is an informative thread. I purchased my OBS in March 2011, so maybe that's why I only got 8 uses out of the element. I didn't bother with Bradley customer service and just ordered 2 new ones from yard and pool. I should have them by the weekend.
I was also curious as to how to replace the element. Thanks Hab for the info!

Habanero Smoker




     I
         don't
                   inhale.
  ::)

Sam3

Quote from: Habanero Smoker on January 04, 2012, 01:30:24 AM
Here are the instructions for changing the element:

How to change the heating element.

Thanks Hab, I just registered over there. Alot of great info!