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Author Topic: Specs on heat control switch  (Read 4301 times)

Offline ReshoeUSAF

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Specs on heat control switch
« on: August 24, 2015, 08:34:14 PM »
Hi all, first off thanks for any answers you might have. I just replaced the element in my smoker, however I found out that it is the slider that is bad. I know it is just a rheostat so I was thinking about replacing it with a dial type rheostat instead of the slider. The one from yards and pools is about $25 and a knob type can be had from radio shack for about $5. The only issue I have is what type of rheostat do I need. The only one from RS is a 25 ohm 3 watt one. Would this work as a replacement.

http://www.radioshack.com/25-ohm-3-watt-rheostat/2710265.html


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beefmann

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Re: Specs on heat control switch
« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2015, 11:13:27 AM »
you are on the  right track... how ever lets  look at whats is actually going on... your heater draws 500 watts,, so the  rheostat has to be  rated at that wattage,, or  have other control devices to handle the 500 watt element... so at this  point in time im going to  say  no to the  3 watt unit beign able to  control the  500 watt element

Offline ReshoeUSAF

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Re: Specs on heat control switch
« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2015, 05:18:29 PM »
Thanks for the reply, I looked around and it seems it is cheaper to just get a new slider from Y&P. I want to go PID eventually, however it isn't in the budget right now.


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Offline Habanero Smoker

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Re: Specs on heat control switch
« Reply #3 on: August 26, 2015, 01:33:39 AM »
Hi ReshoeUSAF;

Welcome to the forum.

Check your faceplate for any cracks or damages. In most cases of the controller switch failing is due to moisture, and or grease leaking in. If the faceplate is damaged and not replaced or repaired, you may have to replace the controller again. For $40 you can get both the controller and the faceplate. Or you can repair any cracks with either a silicone glue or duct tape. Also don't over tighten the faceplate screws. Just make sure they are snug.


     I
         don't
                   inhale.
  ::)

Offline ReshoeUSAF

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Re: Specs on heat control switch
« Reply #4 on: August 26, 2015, 08:30:49 AM »
There is a crack in the faceplate, I took the whole thing off and checked it out. I will probably just get the whole faceplate since that's what I'm going to need in the long run. I got the smoker itself for free so I won't complain about the $40 too much.


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Offline ReshoeUSAF

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Re: Specs on heat control switch
« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2015, 10:20:35 AM »


$6 from Home Depot got me a 600 watt rotary dimmer. 30 mins work and now I'm back in business.


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Offline KyNola

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Re: Specs on heat control switch
« Reply #6 on: September 05, 2015, 12:43:47 PM »
I hope that works for you but with that big hole in the faceplate I am fearful that you are going to get moisture in there and be back exactly where you were prior to your "there, I fixed it". :o

Offline ReshoeUSAF

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Re: Specs on heat control switch
« Reply #7 on: September 06, 2015, 10:19:36 AM »
Well I keep it indoors unless I'm using it, then I put it right back.


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Offline KyNola

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Re: Specs on heat control switch
« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2015, 07:17:51 AM »
Well I keep it indoors unless I'm using it, then I put it right back.


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Then when using your Bradley place it so it is tilting back just a skosh to prevent any moisture from running down the door and out under the door and into the hole.

What you are experiencing used to be a common problem with the BTIS1.  You can also order replacement front feet to tilt the Bradley back.  The new designed 611 doesn't have the same issue.