Here is my finished PID. Well sort of, I'm still waiting for my SSR to replace a faulty one. I can't say enough about Auber Instrument's customer service. Great people! As I had said before I was unable to locate a suitable project box so I went to my favourite hardware store and start snoopin around to see what I could find. I finally decided on a 4” 45 degree PVC elbow. I thought you guys might be interested in the finished product.
Here’s the parts list:
Auber Instruments
1/16 DIN PID (for SSR Output) Model SYL-2352
25A SSR Model RS1A40D25
Omega
Round face Mini Panel Jack Model RMJ-K-R
T/C Assembly W/Trans Joint Model TJ96-CASS-316U-3-SB-SMPW-M
The Source by Circuit City (like Radio Shack in USA)
Panel Mount Fuse Holder & 8 AMP Fuse
Heat Sink Compound
Terminal Strip
Misc. Hardware
4” PVC 45 Degree Elbow
2 – 4” PVC End Caps
Heat Sink From a CPU Motherboard
Misc. Wire, Connectors, Screws, Lead Weights, Etc.
Below photo shows the interior view with the 2 - 1.5 lb lead bars I used to make sure the base was well weighted as not to fall over. You can also see the cut out for the SSR/heat sink at the rear and the TC panel jack & panel mount fuse holder on the left side.
Below photo shows how I created the SSR/heat sink and mount. Basically what I did was cut down the heat sink to the appropriate size. Next I designed an aluminium bracket to go in-between the SSR and the heat sink. I applied the heat sink compound to both sides of the bracket and bolted it together.
Below photo shows as interior view once everything is mounted just prior to attaching the top cap with the Auber PID mounted in it.
Below photo shows the finished PID.
Below photo shows the rear view of the finished PID. Note the direction of the cooling fins of the heat sink. Something my computer guru guy who supplied me with the heat sink said was if you are installing a heat sink with out a fan on it make sure it is mounted in such a fashion that the cooling fins are vertical. By doing it this way the heat sink cools itself better because heat naturally rises which creates air flow.
Below photo shows the bracket I made for the Omega TC. I more or less copied the design of the ET73 bracket. It started as a piece of stainless steel trim for a newer GMC truck (another buddy runs a salvage yard). I trimmed a piece to 4” by 5/8”. Next I trimmed the ends so they were 3/8” wide for about 1/2". This is to allow the bracket to not only fit the standard racks but also the jerky racks. The Omega TC is 3/16” but the hole needs to be 7/32” because the TC shaft will pass through on an angle.
Below photo shows the bracket attached to a jerky rack.
Mike
