Help..I think I fried it!!!

[westexasmoker]

Ok very challenged, the thermo breaker be where..I'm guessing up to the cab temp gauge.  I'm typing this and it just dawned on me...I'll check!!!

C

[Arcs_n_Sparks]

If you look inside the box, the thermal breaker is about three rack holders down from the top towards the left side. Not sure how it looks from the back side.....

[westexasmoker]

I'm all for bypass'in it, Don't fall asleep...LOL..Are we talking about the sensor  into the cab, where I think is the temp sensor......I got a funny feelin my warranty is about to be void.....1 month into it all!!

C

[Arcs_n_Sparks]

westexasmoker,

In the OBS, the front thermometer is just that; a thermometer sticking into the cabinet. No connections here....

With the door open, you can see the thermal cut-out as I describe (unless they've changed the manufacturing) on the back wall. The only way to get to the wiring is to open the the back of the unit and explore.

Yes, this is probably a warranty-limiting road to take......

[westexasmoker]

Sorry I'm slow, to respond, haven't had a moment to chase ANYTHING, I mean problem....I was told(eww..thats sounds bad) IT's time to eat and go to bed, and I would concur, exactly...So goodnight and I'll chase this tommorrrow... Thanks guys/gals!!!

C

[westexasmoker]

OK let the saga continue, just hung up the phone with bradley heaven.  They are sending out a new circuit board, which I don't think is the problem, but you never know???  Also she wants me to check the inline fuse, which I beleive is where we left off last night!  So thats the plan, I'll post what I find (in all odds will probably be post for help 

C

[westexasmoker]

Ok found the inline fuse (looks more like a resistor) no discloration or burnt marks so I'm thinking its alright...What to do now??  Anybody??  I'm not sure how to do this, put power to the box and voltmeter on each side the breaker??

Last night from Arcs

I'd look across the thermal breaker. It should be closed, and that would mean no voltage. If you see 120 volts across it, then it is open.  If  that is the case, you could short it out and see if everything comes to life.


Thanks

C

[Arcs_n_Sparks]

You could measure across the in-line fuse. Should be zero volts. If you see any voltage across it, it means it is open.

[westexasmoker]

Ok did just that and I've got 120 volts, so the breaker has gone bad and needs to be replaced??
Thanks Arcs

C

[westexasmoker]

I'm guessing to verify this cut the breaker out and hard wire it, if everything comes on we're golden and splice in a new TB.

Thnaks

C

[Arcs_n_Sparks]

If you have a jumper wire, you could just short it out.

[westexasmoker]

Jumper wire?? alligator clip on both ends and hop over??

C

[westexasmoker]

Well I'm thinking the plan is...cut out the TB and hardwire (short) and if we have power through the box....AH..Hah..replace breaker and good to go??  ya know if I fry it and the warranty won't comply..like when I was when as a mechanic, did you try to fix this....Well thats gonna cost you more!!!  Arcs thanks I hate electricty (that and heights   sucks when your 6 ft 5 ')  but I'm seeing its not as bad as what I think....worse comes to worse these parts are replaceable for a reasonable amout and I've got a store close.....We'll see, my turn , still need help  I'm hungry and tired......Tommorrow is another day!!  Cheers to all, and Thanks for the Help...

C

I have no idea what I'm doing,......I just need my smoker back!!!!!!  i guess worse comes to worse I've got a bada*s cold smoker box

[Arcs_n_Sparks]

Jumper wire?? alligator clip on both ends and hop over??

That would work and not leave any tool marks if you're wrong...   

[westexasmoker]

Well I guess I woke up brain dead...is the thermal breaker the round gizmo that pokes through the back of cabinet and the inline fuse the resitor looking thing spliced in the wiring???

C