Ok guys. I just got a slightly used OBS from a buddy a few weeks ago and have already done three smokes. First was ribs, then about 13 lbs of pork butt, and my last smoke was 26 lbs of pork butt.
I am officially addicted to this hobby and have started to look at mods that I need to do. The first thing I am going to do is purchase an AUBER PID, but am curious how i set it up so that it bypasses the slider bar to set the temp? Is there something that i need to do in order to set the TEMP correctly using the PID
Couple other mods I would like to do include a second heating element
any other suggestings for mods???
Hi Rajdawg;
Welcome to the forum.
If you are still running on one element, you don't by past the slider temperature controller. Move it fully to the right, and leave it there. You then need to plug the cabinet (not the generator) into the PID, and it will control the temperature.
The below link will take you to a page that list several mods that have been done:
User Modifications (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?27-Bradley-Accessories-User-Modifications)
If you search the forum you will find more modes or variations of the mods listed on the other site. Beside the dual element mod, a 900 watt mods are most also popular.
many people on here will frown on the idea of modding your Bradley until you've had a chance to try it out "as is". I have an OBS, used it in stock form for about a year and then added a second element and installed a PID controller in the smoke generator. I love the results.
If you want to bypass the slider control it's fairly easy to do. Just unplug the wires off it and install a jumper. I left the ones on that cycle the little red LED power light just so I could see how the PID controller works.
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b355/roadijeff/Food/P9040008_zpsec28d459.jpg)
Raj, Welcome aboard, there are a lot of mods out here and all have there benefits, and problems... you need to decide the best one for you and go for it....
here is the link to my heater and fan mod that i installed over 6 years ago with a 900 watt element
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=17329.msg209917#msg209917
and my timer controller that turns off the smoker after 4 hr 40 minutes ( 40 minute warm up, 4 hr smoke )
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=30684.0
hope this helps... and its all up to you on which way you go,,, good luck and welcome aboard
Welcome Raj,
Back in the day, I got my OBS, did a cook to season it and made sure everything worked, then immediately added the second element and I have no regrets. (Never had any voided warranty issues with Bradley).
I recommend that you don't by pass the slider and when you add the 2nd element I would also add the on/off switch. The slider and switch came in handy when my PID crapped out and I had to send it back. So I was able to use the OBS manually while I was waiting for the PID to get returned.
Thanks for all the help guys.
I know I want to for sure order the pid to help control the temps better
After I posted I read further about the 900w element as opposed to the dual element so I am a little unsure which direction to go
As far as the smoking goes. How do you guys set it up so you don't have to change the water in that bowl. It sure would be a lot easier to start a smoke at night and not worry about
I have consider getting an amaz-n but not sure if its compatible with the bradley
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Quote from: Rajdawg on June 24, 2013, 06:02:25 PMHow do you guys set it up so you don't have to change the water in that bowl. It sure would be a lot easier to start a smoke at night and not worry about
Many people have exchanged the small bowl for one of those disposable aluminum baking pans. I think the size is 9x13. They hold much more water. It is still recommended to change the water after the smoking part is done and all the spent pucks are in the water. Then replace it with fresh water and head to bed.
BTW, when I posted the pic about bypassing the slider switch I thought you were talking about adding the Auber PID that you can install in the smoke generator or a project box, not the plug and play version.
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b355/roadijeff/Food/IMG_0594_zpsfd6577ea.jpg)
Quote from: TedEbear on June 24, 2013, 06:13:08 PM
Quote from: Rajdawg on June 24, 2013, 06:02:25 PMHow do you guys set it up so you don't have to change the water in that bowl. It sure would be a lot easier to start a smoke at night and not worry about
Many people have exchanged the small bowl for one of those disposable aluminum baking pans. I think the size is 9x13. They hold much more water. It is still recommended to change the water after the smoking part is done and all the spent pucks are in the water. Then replace it with fresh water and head to bed.
BTW, when I posted the pic about bypassing the slider switch I thought you were talking about adding the Auber PID that you can install in the smoke generator or a project box, not the plug and play version.
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b355/roadijeff/Food/IMG_0594_zpsfd6577ea.jpg)
What, if anything would I have to Do to the slider
If I had the plug n play pid with two elements?
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Quote from: Rajdawg on June 24, 2013, 06:15:56 PM
What, if anything would I have to Do to the slider
If I had the plug n play pid with two elements?
Just slide it all the way to the right so that part of the circuit stays on. Then the PID controller will be the only thing cycling the power on and off.
Quote from: TedEbear on June 24, 2013, 06:21:48 PM
Quote from: Rajdawg on June 24, 2013, 06:15:56 PM
What, if anything would I have to Do to the slider
If I had the plug n play pid with two elements?
Just slide it all the way to the right so that part of the circuit stays on. Then the PID controller will be the only thing cycling the power on and off.
Awesome thanks. May still build a custom pid
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As far as changing the water- I use a 9 X13 aluminum pan ( I think that is the size). I start about 8 pm and do 4 hrs smoke, change the water when the smoke is done a midnight and go to bed.
I change my water not just because the pucks are done, but it also gets full of grease. So I change it more often. With the dual element I don't need to worry about recovery times.
Just looking to clarify before I start tearing into things. As long as I'm using a PID unit, there isn't a need to wire a second element through the slider (ie: I can wire both elements directly, circumventing the control board altogether) because the PID will cycle the element to maintain a set temperature, correct?
When you switch to the cake pan method make sure you remember to use hot/boiling water so you don't have a giant cold water heat sink when you go to bed. :)
Quote from: r_man on July 17, 2013, 04:46:40 PM
Just looking to clarify before I start tearing into things. As long as I'm using a PID unit, there isn't a need to wire a second element through the slider (ie: I can wire both elements directly, circumventing the control board altogether) because the PID will cycle the element to maintain a set temperature, correct?
Yes! The PID will control both elements. Therefore you can circumvent the control board.
On the other hand, you shouldn't wire your second element through the slider. It was not designed for 900w or 1000w. If you want to wire both directly you should bypass the slider; as pointed out by TedEBear in reply #2.
about to order my Auber PID...
Question for you guys. I do not plan on doing elaborate smokes. Mostly Brisket, Ribs, Chicken, etc
Would it be better for me to get the Single Probe or Dual Probe
I dont think I need smoke control, I am mostly just interested in setting a temp and knowing that it is going to maintain that temp in the smoker
Raj, I got the dual probe so I could use one probe to monitor cabinet temperature and the other probe to control when the smoker advanced from one heat setting to the next, or when the heating element shuts off (You can set your PID to advance based on time or advance based on temperature. Which trigger you use to change the heat setting is selected on a step by step basis.)
For cabinet temperature, I chose the through the wall mount version. Seems that most folks use the version that is not permanently mounted to the smoker. This allows them to place the sensor in different locations depending on what they are smoking, which contributes to more accurate temperature readings (you don't end up with a cold 8 pound pork shoulder an inch above your temp sensor that throws your temp readings off).
Got my PID ordered tOday and also ordered Two New Elements(figured i might as wlel replace the old one)
I have read the susan minor site numerous times on the installl
my question is: If i only plan on running the smoker with the PID is it necessary to install the switch or not?
the dual probe i believe will monitor the box temp as well as the meat temp,, also i believe i will turn off at the meat temp though i will let the owners of the duel prob confirm this point,,, the single probe is only used to control box temp
I should be getting my 900watt in the next few days, and then I will install that..Thanx to those who answered all my questions and helped me get the info I needed.
I will then try to order the PID next month.
And I'm still on the fence on adding the fan though??? Is it worth it? Does it make that much of a difference worth the money/time?
Quote from: Rajdawg on August 19, 2013, 10:05:27 AM
Got my PID ordered tOday and also ordered Two New Elements(figured i might as wlel replace the old one)
I have read the susan minor site numerous times on the installl
my question is: If i only plan on running the smoker with the PID is it necessary to install the switch or not?
The switch is optional, I just like a few extra bells and whistles. It has come in handy when I don't want to hookup my temperature controller to do a quick smoke/cook went temperature is not critical. Or to shut the second element off, if my temperature controller is malfunctioning, and I need to cook/smoke something right away.
is this the right connector Ill need for the AC PLUG to combine the wires from both elements
(http://www.menards.com/main/store/20090519001/items/media/Electrical/GardnerBender/ProductLarge/20-143F.jpg)
or is it this one
(http://www.menards.com/main/store/20090519001/items/media/Electrical/GardnerBender/ProductLarge/20-143M.jpg)
You will need the top connector; a Female spade connector. Make sure you get the right size for the wire gauge you are using, though if you are connecting two wires to one connector, you may be better off going up one gauge. Also they come in different size connectors, that vary in width, make sure you get the correct size, I believe it is a 1/4" connector, but you should check to be sure.
Ok got the mod done. Had a little trouble getting all the screws back in. Only got two of the four. The others just couldn't get ahold of anything.
Tested it out
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/23/age9etyn.jpg)
Next step is too figure out the pid
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Congrats!
Great!
This is the only photo I've seen of both elements in which both seem to be heating exactly the same. On mine the front element seems brighter.
Quote from: Rajdawg on August 22, 2013, 11:09:45 AM
is this the right connector Ill need for the AC PLUG to combine the wires from both elements
I know you already did this but on my dual element I just ran a 3-4 inch piece of high temp wire from the end of the second element to the first on each end and attached them with a ring connector. Then just one wire out the back of the cooking chamber on each side.
WOW! What a smart idea...didnt even think about that. Would have been super simple
I know there was a dummys guide to the PID somewhere can someone point me in that direction
Going to do a small(4lb) brisket tomorrow to test it out
Small brisket turned into a 12 lb brisket haha.
When I start the smoke cycle on the pid do I need to hit the puck advance button the first time?
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Quote from: Rajdawg on August 23, 2013, 02:48:40 PM
When I start the smoke cycle on the pid do I need to hit the puck advance button the first time?
You don't have to but if you don't then you'll be waiting for the first hour before a puck reaches the burner if you don't manually advance it several positions.
The way I do it is when I first turn on the Bradley and let it warm up (only takes about 8 minutes with dual elements) I manually advance the pucks to where the first one is in the spot right before the burner. Then 20 minutes later it will advance on its own onto the burner.
When I open the door after about the first 10 minutes of initial start-up to add whatever product I'm smoking it loses some heat and there's still 10 more minutes before the puck advance timer pushes the first puck onto the burner. After I close it back up the heat recovery is back up to the desired chamber temp 10 minutes later when the puck moves onto the burner and everything is nice and hot by then.
Quote from: TedEbear on August 23, 2013, 05:01:39 AM
Quote from: Rajdawg on August 22, 2013, 11:09:45 AM
is this the right connector Ill need for the AC PLUG to combine the wires from both elements
I know you already did this but on my dual element I just ran a 3-4 inch piece of high temp wire from the end of the second element to the first on each end and attached them with a ring connector. Then just one wire out the back of the cooking chamber on each side.
Yep, I used the "TedEbear" method for dual element. QED!! Hardest part was notching the ceramic holders without breaking. A dremel is your friend!