Hi Guys,
First, I think I should mention that this smoker, along with the mods and several accessories is my Wife's Christmas present...
Quick summary of the mods I am incorporating into this new OBS:
- Auberins SYL-2352 PID, will mount into the smoke generator
- Fan from smokeandstuff
- 900 watt heating element, Tempco CSF00131 from drillspot
So far this afternoon, I have installed the fan and the heating element:
This is a pic with the fan installed and the original element taken apart:
(http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/5919/dsc0063jg.jpg)
Pic with the new element installed:
(http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/660/dsc0073e.jpg)
Another pic with the new element installed:
(http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9116/dsc0072ah.jpg)
pic of the element attached to the reflector:
(http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/9893/dsc0066ej.jpg)
Another pic of the element attached to the reflector:
(http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/2538/dsc0064cb.jpg)
So far so good.
I can plug the fan into the mains and it runs just fine. You can hold your hand in front of it and feel a gentle breeze.
I can plug the cabinet and consequently the element, into the mains and sure enough, the light in the front comes on and the element heats up. The rheostat slider was all the way onto full on and I did not attempt to adjust it.
Question. I am concerned about the slide control and its ability, or lack of ability to handle 900 watts and besides, I think it is now redundant since I will be using a PID.
What do I do? Do I disconnect it entirely (though I do like the light coming on at the front), and if so, how do I do that?
The following pic shows the bottom off and the wires:
(http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/6662/dsc0068gh.jpg)
Here the bottom front of the cabinet is to the top of the picture and there are 3 wires which appear to run to the slider control. A blue, A white and a red.
Can anyone give any suggestions on how to disconnect the slider? An added plus would be to disconnect the slider while allowing the light to come on.
Thanks for all help
Phil
Take the faceplate off. On the back side the blue wire goes to the temp slider and the white wire goes to the temp slider and jumpers to the light. The red also goes to the light. Unplug the blue and white from the temp slider and connect them together leaving the white jumper going to the light. The light should still work when the PID cycles on and off.
Thanks kickedback. That is exactly what I wanted to know. I'll post the results and pix of how I get along...
Best
Phil
Looks like you've got a pretty good start at it. Good luck and enjoy.
Here's how I did mine. The white and red wires go to the LED. No wires at all go to the slider.
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b355/roadijeff/Miscellaneous/P9040008.jpg)
looking good so far
Yep, that's pretty much how I did it.
Good help there guys!
And phild, slick move giving the wife the smoker! Congrats! ;)
@tedebear and kickedback, looked just as you guys said and it was easy to make the mod. After the mod was done, I plugged it in, the light came on and the element warmed up.
@testrocket, well, that is still to be seen. I can only hope.
Ok. Fan and heater are now complete. Onto what I consider the hard part... The PID. Expect a whole bunch of questions.
Thanks guys,
Phil
@tedebear. I was just looking at this thread and I see you have a button to the right of the PID.
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=22065.msg267351#msg267351
What is that for and do you have a circuit diagram?
Thanks
Phil
Quote from: phild on December 19, 2011, 04:49:32 PMWhat is that for and do you have a circuit diagram?
The new on/off switch is for power to the PID controller. That way, I can run either the SG or the PID independently of each other. I sent you some email pics of the wiring.
Looks Good Phil.
Thanks RFT.
I used the brackets you made for me, though they are hard to see. They worked very well.
Thanks again
Phil
Finished the mods today (well almost, still have a couple of things todo) and I thought I would share some pix of the new device.
In this pic, all three switches are turned on and illuminated, along with temps showing on the PID. The illuminated switch immediately to the right of the PID, turns power on and off to the PID. The switch to the farthermost right turns the fan on and off.
(http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/8436/dsc0145mk.jpg)
Now that I look at that pic, I see that I need to do a real good cleaning.
This is the back of the SMG. Heatsink top right, bolted through to the SSR inside, thermal past on the inside and the outside. Lower fuse is an extra fuse, connected up to the fan only. The original fuse still fuses the smoke generator, the PID and the element. The upper 'hooded' socket is for the fan. I have another short cable on order which will connect this socket to the fan on the cabinet, which is then switched by the illuminated switch on front. The yellow socket is for the sensor.
(http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/4006/dsc0148xc.jpg)
Another pic of the rear:
(http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/7827/dsc0149ra.jpg)
Rear view of the SMG connected to the cabinet:
(http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/8237/dsc0154zg.jpg)
Front view of the SMG connected to the cabinet:
(http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/2310/dsc0155oz.jpg)
Yet another front view:
(http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/8830/dsc0156qx.jpg)
So that's it. Everything tested out to be functional, at least as far as i can test it without an actual cook session....
I want to thank everyone that provide advice, help etc... truly a great community :)
As I mentioned, this is a gift to my wife for Christmas... so a couple of pix of all the bits and pieces:
(http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1472/dsc0157foc.jpg)
and
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/7250/dsc0159qr.jpg)
Phil,
Very, very nice. You did a good job and I hope your wife appreciates all of your hard work. ;D
very nice
She is getting a great gift.
Did you do the front feet mod also?
Nicely done Phil! 8)
Mike
Fantastic!
WOW! What a professionally done job. One more mod for you to think about. Add a rail system that allows you to convert from a 4 rack to an 8 rack. The additional rails go 2 inches above each rail that are currently in your Bradley.
You do great work. Amazingly impressive.
Beautiful job. Nice work. You should go into business selling an upgraded unit with a built in PID ;D ;D
Great job. Glad the brackets worked for ya. Great gift for the wife also.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bringing up an old post here, but could you tell me how you made the mounting brackets for the heating element?
Hi,
Actually RFT and I were doing the mods at about the same time. He mentioned he was making some brackets and I said, make me a pair too and he did :) Very kind of him.
However, they looked like mild steel, a rectangle about 3 inches by 2 inches bent over in the middle, such that each leg was about 1.5 x 2. I wish I had taken pix.
I sat them over the sides of the original reflector, drilled a couple of holes in the sides and bolted them to the reflector with stainless nuts and bolts.
So now I had a couple of flaps extending 1.5" into the reflector. I drilled a 1/4" hole in these to match the element and attached the element with a stainless bolts and wing nuts.
I used the original wires with larger rings on the end.
Hope that helps
Phil
ETA: I remounted the reflector with the new element exactly the same way as it came off. The only mods were the L shaped brackets, the holes drilled and the new rings at the end of the wires. I also found that the original screws holding the insulators to the back were loose, so I tightened those.
Thanks Phil. That was very helpful!
I saw the brackets and was going to wing it, but figured I'd ask anyway.
I know what to do now. I'll snap some pics when I get my element and fan installed!
Quote from: Sam3 on February 08, 2012, 06:07:20 AM
Thanks Phil. That was very helpful!
I saw the brackets and was going to wing it, but figured I'd ask anyway.
I know what to do now. I'll snap some pics when I get my element and fan installed!
After all this time, how has the heating element held up. I'm presently doing the same basic mod and with the Tempco CSF00131, I want to make one suggestion about orienting the element so that the center heating element allows convection upward through the heatsinks, in other words, simply rotate the element 90 degrees along its long axis. When you look down at it, you should see the narrow part of the rectangular heating element. Of course, if the sufficient fan circulation does indeed reach the bottom of the element as you have it mounted, that would in itself provide airflow and make the orientation less critical but this is doubtful, though I'm sure it does help immensely evening out the compartment temperatures.
The Tempco heater can reach 1200 deg so putting both the heater and a fan with a blower wheel within a vented enclosure will ensure the high volume of air flow the heating element needs to prevent it from glowing cherry red. A glowing heater for the half hour or so required to come up to temp will dramatically shorten the heating element life.
You will likely find that the existing wiring is woefully inadequacy and will burn through the insulation after the first light use. You need to get lead wires which are designed to withstand the high temp and ceramic covers for the exposed element AC hookup or run the risk of something inadvertently falling on them and shorting them. You can find both at Omega.
Absolutely nice clean work you did. Greg