After reading the dual element mod information / instructions I was wondering if there is some reason that a jumper cannot be installed from the two ends of the original element to the two ends of the second element, instead of going into the back of the cabinet and tying into the clip?
I am not an electrician and maybe there is some glaring reason that I cannot think of. Oh I have the DBS, if that makes a difference.
Many have done this. It is safer with the DBS, but if you have the OBS you may want to by past the slider control. It was not manufactured to control 1000 watts. A second issue, is that you are placing an extra load on the in-line fuse and the high temperature sensor; though I have'nt read any reports of any problems in any of the issues I've mentioned.
Quote from: JZ on November 14, 2011, 10:19:26 PM
After reading the dual element mod information / instructions I was wondering if there is some reason that a jumper cannot be installed from the two ends of the original element to the two ends of the second element, instead of going into the back of the cabinet and tying into the clip?
I am not an electrician and maybe there is some glaring reason that I cannot think of. Oh I have the DBS, if that makes a difference.
i would say no, just for the simple reason that you now have no control over the heat in the cabinet, if you were to go with a pid then yes and run both heaters off of the pid and not use any of the bradley wireing execpt to the heaters and smoke generator
Quote from: JZ on November 14, 2011, 10:19:26 PM
After reading the dual element mod information / instructions I was wondering if there is some reason that a jumper cannot be installed from the two ends of the original element to the two ends of the second element, instead of going into the back of the cabinet and tying into the clip?
That's exactly how I have mine wired. Just two 3-4 inch pieces of high temp wire with ring terminals going from the end of one element to the other and then just one wire on each side extends out the back of the chamber.
I have an OBS and I took the 10A inline fuse out of the circuit but kept the high temp sensor there. Fuse protection is done in the SG before sending it over to the tower. The slider temp control no longer does anything. I have an internal PID controller installed in the smoke generator box.
So as I understand it - it should be fine in the DBS (which is what I thought) since the element control is simply on or off and the heat is controlled by the Bradley SG.
In the OBS it is different because of the rheostat control, which was not designed for 1000W (makes sense). So in the OBS the slider needs to be removed from the circuit and then something else needs to take its place to control the heat - IE PID.
Thanks guys.
When my replacement element and my backup element arrive I think I might go with this mod. Just need to find some of that heat resistant wire.
As beefman pointed out, you shouldn't add the second element without a PID or other type of external controller. Daisey chaining them in the DBS without a PID, you are leaving it up to the circuit board in the generator to control 1000 watts, when it was designed to control 500 watts.
Thanks Hab - good point about the SG. I guess I will stick with the original as I am not prepared to spend another $200 for a PID.
Ok let me get his straight. If I plug the wires going to my slider switch on my OBS. And use my pid,I can just jump from one element to the next with out going thru removing the back and all that?
Quote from: viper125 on November 15, 2011, 05:04:10 PM
Ok let me get his straight. If I plug the wires going to my slider switch on my OBS. And use my pid,I can just jump from one element to the next with out going thru removing the back and all that?
the simple way is to add the second element in parallel and straight to the plug on the back panel bypassing bradley controls from the back plug go to your pid control
Ok but it should be a spade connection to the slider. Aren't you doing the same just connecting those two wires? It should just be a rheostat I would think and that would remove the slider all together.
Quote from: JZ on November 15, 2011, 04:20:58 PM
Thanks Hab - good point about the SG. I guess I will stick with the original as I am not prepared to spend another $200 for a PID.
A PID installed in the SG or a project box is around $45. Even with the related hardware for it (thermocouple, SSR, heat sink, some wire, etc.) it is still under $80 total, less than 1/2 the cost of the plug-n-play PID controller.
PID Controller Installation (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?315-PID-Controller)
Thanks TedEbear. For $80 I would do that in a heartbeat. Not sure how much it would cost to get the stuff sent up across the border and what the duties might be. Maybe I can find a place closer to home that has this stuff.
Anybody in BC done this with local stuff or had the Auber stuff shipped up?
Quote from: JZ on November 16, 2011, 06:00:22 PM
Thanks TedEbear. For $80 I would do that in a heartbeat. Not sure how much it would cost to get the stuff sent up across the border and what the duties might be. Maybe I can find a place closer to home that has this stuff.
Anybody in BC done this with local stuff or had the Auber stuff shipped up?
JZ
I'm in Saskatchewan and I have bought lots of goodies from Auber. Suyi will treat you right. Just make sure you get him to ship via USPS and not UPS because of the ridiculous brokers fees they charge. Suyi is more than fair with shipping. Just get him to give you a price in advance.
I've never found anything in Canada priced remotely close to his prices.
Mike
Thanks Mike ----- Gotta love this forum.
Looks like you got some great help there ;D
Bradeys reply about the OBS slider is "its not designed to handle power of two elements" So better make sure slider is out of the loop.
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on November 15, 2011, 12:52:25 PM
As beefman pointed out, you shouldn't add the second element without a PID or other type of external controller. Daisey chaining them in the DBS without a PID, you are leaving it up to the circuit board in the generator to control 1000 watts, when it was designed to control 500 watts.
Hi I want to confirm that I cannot hook up a 2nd 500 watt element to my DBS without adding an external PID.
I followed the directions over at susanminor and I was about to make holes in my ceramic doohickeys when I stumbled on this thread.
Thanks, Jack.
You should have some type of controller can handle 1000 watts
Hi Jacktucky;
Welcome to the forum.
Sorry to see that you missed the warning that is written just before the instructions. You do need some type of temperature controller, since the Bradley digital generator was designed to handle 500 watts, trying to have it control 1000 watts would not be safe. Since you have gotten this far, I would go ahead and complete most of the wiring, but do not connect the hot wire of the second element to the A/C receptacle until you get a temperature controller such as a PID; BBQ-Guru, Stoker etc. For more information on the Guru and Stoker click on the below links:
BBQ Guru Power Raptor Hookup (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?823-BBQ-Guru-quot-The-Power-Raptor-Package-quot-Setup&p=1225#post1225)
Stoker/Power Raptor Hookup (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?888-Stoker-Power-Raptor-Controlled-Bradley&p=1334#post1334)
The Wat-Troller - DIY SSR Switch Controller (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?889-Wat-Troller-DIY-SSR-Switch-Control-Box&p=1335#post1335)
Homemade Power Raptor.