I have just modified my BS a bit. Bought a digital temperature controller and plug my BS heater into it. Then set my wanted temp on the contoller, and slide the BS's thermostat all the way to max. Once, it reaches the required temp, the controller will cut off the power and maintain it automatically. I hope this will solve many of our temperature problem in here. BTW, the normal oven dial type controller should work too although not as accurate as a digital one.
Regards,
Tai
which temp controller are you using ?
RJR,
Don't sit there and make us wonder. What does it look like/make and so on....Sounds good.
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/mallardwacker/peta-sucks.gif)
SmokeOn,
(http://www.azbbqa.com/forum/phpbb2/images/avatars/gallery/AZBBQA/mallardsmall.gif)
mski
Perryville, Arkansas
Wooo-Pig-Soooie
If a man says he knows anything at all, he knows nothing what he aught to know. But...
I am liking the sounds of this........more details would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks,
Scott
<b>Carpe Diem</b> does <b>NOT</b> mean catch of the day
Try this link for a controller. I bought one and I am just beginning to set it up. It should work good.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Fahrenheit-999-Digital-Temperature-control-controler_W0QQitemZ7542164517QQcategoryZ50974QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
Dear smokers,
Sorry for the lack of details. I used a simple temperature controller you can in get almost all electronic shop (I'm not in USA and the one I used cost me abt USD 30, a Japanese brand). Will post a picture tomorrow when I have taken it. The power to the BS is connected directly to the controller so you have to look for one that can handle at least 10Amp current for 110V (or 5Amp for 240V). In addition, it's better to have one with proportional control rather than simple on/off. Proportional control means that the current to the heater is reduced when the temperature is approaching the setting, rather than simply staying on until it reaches the temperature required than off. This reduces the chance of overshooting the temp.
BTW, my first trial was using the dial type taken from an old oven. It works ok, but the accuracy of control is not there and it tells me nothing abt the temperature inside the smoker.
have a question for all on this topic. by installing one of theses tempeature contol devices is this going to control constent heat throughout the bradley. If heat is coming out of the heat source will it be the same heat on the first rack as the top rack. i just dont see that happening either way
Clarego
The controller would not equalize the heat.
Olds fan will do that.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by CLAREGO</i>
<br />have a question for all on this topic. by installing one of theses tempeature contol devices is this going to control constent heat throughout the bradley. If heat is coming out of the heat source will it be the same heat on the first rack as the top rack. i just dont see that happening either way
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">I've been looking into this a fair amount now. I've come to find out that not all controllers are created equal. Temp swings vary. It seem to be all related to the price of the controller. No matter where you place the thermo-couple the box itself will vary in temp. even if the controller is a +/- 1 degree.
car54 is correct it takes a fan to even out the box temp..
While we are talking about the box fan I will give Chez a call later and find out how he coming along with them.
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
Dear Smokers,
Putting a fan will definitely equalizes the temp inside the smoker, but I have yet to find a fan that can take the abuse inside a smoker (High Temp, smoke residue, vapor and even nitrite). Any suggestion?
A controller will only let us have more precise control on the temp as the BS's thermostat needs constant adjustment. I put my probe in the middle rack and hope for the best (The smoker is actually quite small so the unevenness of temp inside should be minimal).
Regards,
Tai
Unevenness of the unit is not minimal; especially if you are smoking more then four hours. The unevenness is not only a factor from top to bottom, but also front to back. That is why you will notice that many of us will rotate the shelves both vertically and horizontally. Even if you only have one shelf loaded, it is best to rotate that shelf from front to back approximately half way through the cooking time form a more evenly cooked product.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by RJR1876</i>
<br /><font size="2">Dear Smokers,
Putting a fan will definitely equalizes the temp inside the smoker, but I have yet to find a fan that can take the abuse inside a smoker (High Temp, smoke residue, vapor and even nitrite). Any suggestion?
A controller will only let us have more precise control on the temp as the BS's thermostat needs constant adjustment. I put my probe in the middle rack and hope for the best (The smoker is actually quite small so the unevenness of temp inside should be minimal).
Regards,
Tai</font id="size2"><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Tai,
I have built a prototype fan. It was tested 4 times. 2 times while smoking and 2 times of extended heat. 205F - 300 F each time 40 hours.
Chez now has the prototype, and hopefully soon he will be able to offer a production model to the members here. The test fan moved about 30 cfm. The fan blade is only 2 inches so you will not lose a rack. The production model will be an upgrade that will parallel the one I now have install on my machine--that fan moves 35 cfm. Using a probe the temp swing from top of the V pan to the top of the box was only 2 degrees. (Box was empty during this reading...no food in it.) Before installing the fan I saw as much as 10 - 15 degree swings depending upon how much I had in the box.
It is my personal belief that the way I laid out this fan, the amount of heat sinks added and the quality of the motor that this fan will out live the life cycle of the bradley unit.
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
Olds,
Very interesting...when will u put it out in the market? Or you can share with us the design?
Regards,
Tai
here is an idea. how about putting a fan on top or to replace the vent controll... an old computer fan may do. the reason i say that most are made out of plastic and if done right you can keep the motor away from the smoke[?][?]
I'm new here and new to the bradley. I haven't even cooked with it yet but this is the topic I was hoping to find. I'm wondering if anyone has considered using the fan externally and piping the hot air back in between the grates. Seems horrible to do this (cut holes in the side) but I think it might be the best way to keep the heat even. A single fan inside will probably be blocked with a full load of food on the racks. If I do this I'll change my username to uglysmoker.
What bother me is that most cheap fans (including computer fans) are not fully enclosed, and smoke deposit on the coil will lead to malfunction even short circuit. In addition, if you hot smoke, I just wonder if the plastic fan blade can stand up the heat. That's why I'm waiting to see Old's invention. Recyyling the smoke is a good idea, and we don't even have to cut another hole, just add a T-junction at the original openning for the generator. BTW, is aluminium safe to use as piping?
Regards,
Tai
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><font size="2">Olds,
Very interesting...when will u put it out in the market? Or you can share with us the design?
Regards,
Tai</font id="size2"><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">I'm not marketing this item. Chez is. He has only had the prototype about 2 weeks. It takes time to ramp up for production. <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><font size="2">here is an idea. how about putting a fan on top or to replace the vent controll... an old computer fan may do. the reason i say that most are made out of plastic and if done right you can keep the motor away from the smoke</font id="size2"><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> You have me totally lost here. All computer fans are muffet fans. They are flow though. It would be great if a muffet fan could be used. I spent much time looking into this and there are no muffet fans that will work for us. If you are thinking of placing the muffet fan so it pushes from the top at vent into the box you got 2 problems. First outside air is introduced killing the box temp. Next the only place then for the smoke to exit is via the generator. <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><font size="2">I'm new here and new to the bradley. I haven't even cooked with it yet but this is the topic I was hoping to find. I'm wondering if anyone has considered using the fan externally and piping the hot air back in between the grates. Seems horrible to do this (cut holes in the side) but I think it might be the best way to keep the heat even. A single fan inside will probably be blocked with a full load of food on the racks. If I do this I'll change my username to uglysmoker</font id="size2"><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">First you will lose much heat doing this way. Remember the main element in the box is only 500 watts. Next from what I think you are saying is your are going to circulate the air out of the box into a set up piping and you will have an in-line fan. What fan/ motor are you going to be using that can handle the heat? (I will address this problem more below.) Now the way this fan works a full load will not block the circulation. This has to do with angles. Plus the heat is like water. It seeks out an equilibrium.<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><font size="2">What bother me is that most cheap fans (including computer fans) are not fully enclosed, and smoke deposit on the coil will lead to malfunction even short circuit. In addition, if you hot smoke, I just wonder if the plastic fan blade can stand up the heat. That's why I'm waiting to see Old's invention. Recyyling the smoke is a good idea, and we don't even have to cut another hole, just add a T-junction at the original openning for the generator. BTW, is aluminium safe to use as piping?
Regards,
Tai</font id="size2"><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Ok any static pressure against the generator and the smoke will go back into the generator and exit around it. This smoke will leave an oil. A few times and those oils will turn into a tar and at that point your generator gums up and you might very well end up purchasing a new generator. Yes Aluminium is safe to use. However, if any smoke is piped through it and if that piping goes outside the box then you must factor in that aluminium is an excellent heat sink, and you will lose much heat.
<hr noshade size="1">Now to address some common thoughts I've seen in this thread.
1. All electric motors that I know of cannot be operated where the ambient air temp. is greater than 105F. The exception is some muffet fans will go to 170 F.
2. There are plastic fan blades that can with stand higher temp, but not the upper range 250-300 F that I could find. Plus as I state in #1 above no motor can. (Maybe NASA has such a motor, but I don't think you can find one and even if you did it would cost you an arm and a leg to purchase it.)
3. It does not matter if the motor is completely sealed as in explosion proof you are still limit to 105 F ambient air temp..
4. You create to much CFM and then the static pressure of it will force the smoke back out the generator. You defuse that CFM so it does not hit the Generator and you have ruined the air flow.
Now I believe when Chez markets this item it will be affordable. It will take about an hour to install it. Yes you will have to drill some mounting holes.
In this first picture below you can see when I opening the door how the smoke does not exit the box at the generator but is being pulled to the back of the box. The door here had been opened for a good minute before I took this picture.
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/smoke3.jpg)
Now contrast the above image with this one where there is no fan. You will see the smoke exit at the generator.
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/smoke4.jpg)
This is a balancing act. To much circulation and you have problems with the generator. Not enough circulation and nothing has been accomplished.
Rather than go through all of the hassle I went through again, when Chez does market this I'm going to purchase two from him for friends rather than make them myself.
Those that are new to this topic, I put this together for the members. I did it so Chez could offer something the eBay whores don't have. I'm now out of the loop. I'm not making one thin dime on this. Yes anyone with time can do what I did. However, what I did is the only way to create the correct amount of CFM, address the the limitations of ambient air, not lose a rack to a fan blade and I did this for the most part with off the shelf items to keep the cost down as low as possible.
EDIT: It just came to me that a competitor of Chez's may very well be ghosting here. As such I have pulled all images and information from earlier postings concerning this matter.
If anyone has questions I will only be able to supply general information. I sure those who know me will understand. Those that don't there is nothing more I can add... sorry~~!
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
im saying to suck out the air flow not keep it in. i just thought if the fan is sucking the air out you would have even heat through the cabinet.
clarence
by the way olds i should of known there muffet fans
Dear friend,
Please tell what's a muffet fan? I did a search, and all I got is "Miss Muffet Fans Club"[8D]
Regards,
Tai
Muffet is a slang for this type of fan:
(http://www.criticool.com/images%20small/Fan-sunnon%20hi%20speed.jpg)
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
Actually, the correct term is "muffin" fan. However, with all the smoke around this forum, muffet is close enough.[8D]
Arcs_n_Sparks
Thanks, Olds, for your wonderful answer to the many questions regarding the fan issue. I totally understand that someone may try to take your ideas and run with them while all the while you have asked Chez to bring this to the market.
Personally, as a newbie, I look forward to learning more as the fan becomes available to us BS folks.
W3BCY
Barney
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Actually, the correct term is "muffin" fan. However, with all the smoke around this forum, muffet is close enough.
Arcs_n_Sparks<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Hey Muffin is what I put jam on...
W3BCY
Barney,
Believe me once Chez get this out it will have been worth the wait. Also the fan is only part one of my plan to turn the bradley into the cat's meow... however, things at work are really out running the guys and I will be back in the field soon at night and part two will take a back seat until this levels out.
Oh well it better than being unemployed.
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
I have just set up my controller from Cold Fusion, after buying it 2 months ago. It works great! I have been playing with it all day at different temperatures and there is very little deviation. Later on today I am going to smoke a pork butt and I will report the results of the controller.
Brad
Brad,
How did you mount it? If you got it worked out then I'm not going to worry with part 2 as you have it. My idea was to put one together that was a stand a lone unit so members would not have to worry with cutting anything and wiring it.
If yours works there are other ideas I have I would rather work on. Not all are smoke related. One of them is a blending of the best of all relevent cleanings systems into one unit. Of course I could not sell it as I would be stepping on someone's patent but the idea is to make them for my own company. To be more than just one step better than the next company. In fact at the moment I've got a couple of hundred hours now in its design. I know I can pull it off. If I can do it under 5K then I will have the cat's meow of commercial carpet cleaning units. [^] In the gaming world it would be called a kick arse unit~~!
Hopefully your unit will do all that you hope it will do. Perhaps, you and Chez can link up and bring it to the members at an affordable price. That would be great! You could very well become our hero~~! Personally I just happy about the fan... and someone else doing this next project works for me.
Please keep us in the loop~~! And thanks for this heads up! I'm looking forward to your next posting [:p]
EDIT: BTW when I talked with Cold Fusion on the phone they offered, once I had the prototype made, to looking into manufactering the whole deal at a fair price.... just something to think about.
This is the idea I shared with cold fusion. They felt at that time that making them would not be a problem. Pehaps you and chez can work with them. I don't know as they may require a huge order....
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/modified.jpg)
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
Aloha Brad
Im new to the forum and need info.. I noticed or read that you purchased a temp controller. I would like to know how you hooked up your controller and if you could send this novice a diagram. I orderd a Bradley and have a 20lb Sausage Maker smoker given to me by my son. So I am thinking of buying one for each. But electricity scares the hell out of me. So amy help you can supply to me will be great. I will trade you pineapples for a diagram...lol Is that your diagram in this post? Hmmmm just confused.
Mahalo
Kamano (Joe)
Onipaa/Ku'oko'a
Steadfast Freedom
It is 11:00 PM and the the pork finally reached 190 degrees. That is 27 and 1/2 hours of smoking and cooking. The controller worked faultlessly More reports tommorrow. I'm tired , the pork is being FTC and then I have to pull it.
Brad
The controller worked great. Once it reached the target temperature it kept it there, very occasionally you would see a + - of 1 degree. It took 27 1/2 hours for 16 pounds of pork butt. I beleive it took so long because there were no temperature spikes.
The controller worked great. Once it reached the target temperature it kept it there, very occasionally you would see a + - of 1 degree. It took 27 1/2 hours for 16 pounds of pork butt. I believe it took so long because there were no temperature spikes.
When you first use the controller or when you open the Bradley door and the temps. go down the controller seems to go through a learn cycle. Initially it goes about 10 degrees high, then 10 degrees low and then it homes in on the target temp. and stays there.
Olds, your drawing is correct. When the fan comes into production you could permanently mount the thermo coupler through the side of the Bradley.
I am also going to try the controller in my Primo grill with a BBQ Guru blower.
Brad
With an on/off controller (versus a PID controller), you will get the excursions noted due to hystersis around the setpoint and overall control loop behavior.
Arcs_n_Sparks
arcs_n_sparks
I thought the controller car54 got was PID as he got it from cold fusion. [?]
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
Oldman,
Perhaps an error on my part. My read of the controller is that it has a relay output, thus on/off control. Nevertheless, it indicates it is a PID controller. So, it is implementing a PID algorithm using on/off control (which, given the thermal loop times, would require some nifty tuning).
I am building a PID controller for the Bradley using a triac for phase control of the input to the heater. I could not get Maverick to provide the protocols for the wireless transmission of temperature, so I am building the unit to utilize the Maverick probe directly. Bill-of-materials is $60, so I am doing this more for fun than anything else. It implements your desired vision: it sits between the AC power from the smoke generator and the AC input on the heater, so no mods on the unit. When I get done (I may be helping my Uncle in Slidell for awhile), I'll post some pics.
Arcs_n_Sparks
Well I wish your Uncle good luck! I will be also looking forward to seeing what you make.
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pick</i>
<br />I'm new here and new to the bradley. I haven't even cooked with it yet but this is the topic I was hoping to find. I'm wondering if anyone has considered using the fan externally and piping the hot air back in between the grates. Seems horrible to do this (cut holes in the side) but I think it might be the best way to keep the heat even. A single fan inside will probably be blocked with a full load of food on the racks. If I do this I'll change my username to uglysmoker.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Welcome to the Forum, Pick! You can tell this is a great source of info on the BS!
John
Newton MA
Hi,
I bought one controller earlier and put it in a plastic box. I don't use the outlet from the generator. If someone wants I can take some extra pix how it's done.
See:
http://smoker.americats.com/Smoke_Aug05/slides/Sany0267.html
For now the probe goes into the vent but later, when a fan is installed, I will drill a hole somewhere around the middle of the Bradley and put the probe on some kind of "arm" so it can be moved if some meat gets in its way.
It works great. Much better than having to set the temp with the slider.
I haven't played around with the settings so much, yet.
Next smoke will be Rainbow. Me and my wife catched 10 of them = 24 lbs last Sunday. She got the biggest, 5.5 lbs, but I got the most, 6.
First time fly fishing for both of us. It was fun and they tasted very good too. We will continue with fly fishing.
[:D]
/Lasse
Lasse
I sure would like to see and know more about how you put this together.
Thanks!
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
Olds,
Ok,
I'm at work now but will take pix later and put them on web.
/Lasse
Thxs~~!
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
Hi,
I saw that one picture was very unsharp but still usable.[:D]
3 pix, front, back and a quick sketch, power.jpg, that may be used by people that can make the right conclusions of the drawing.
http://smoker.americats.com/rex/
I connected the generator to one outlet and the control box to another outlet and from the control box to the smoke box.
Is this what you wanted?
/Lasse
Thanks for the information. Tell me does it have relay output? I'm still a little confused yet.
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
Hi,
Yes, it has a relay output, 3 Amps.
Do you have the doc for the controller?
Peter posted a link earlier to the instructions but I can't find the link.
Do you want me to email them to you?
Quote from a post from peter:
""
The maximum current used by the BS is stated as 2.5 Amps I measured it as 2.7 max. The relay in the controllers is 3 amps. No need for triacs and fancy things like that. If you leave the door closed the measured temperature will be maintained within +-2 degrees by the controller. If you draw a graph of temperature and power it is like a slowly reducing sine wave as the controller pulses on and off. The pulses become quicker and more closely spaced as the control temperature is reached.
""
/Lasse
Well done that looks clean that way.
When I play with my controller I built for a while longer I plan on upping to a PID also, so will have to find a home for my controller which is working great .
Let us know how the tunning went as far as notes and all
Have fun
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/todayschildhere/61259.jpg)
What would something like this cost? Is something anyone can connect? Where can you pick up the parts in the US?
The P.I.D. for use on the Bradley smoker is an excellent temperature controller. I have had one on one of my espresso machines and it is perfect to control the temperature of the boiler. I actually was going to do this on my smoker until I thought it over a bit.
It is highly accurate, it is set-it and walk away using BS stand alone with no extra goodies other than a thermocouple and a relay. The short-coming for me was I wanted a remote control feature. I wanted an alarm. I wanted features that include an automatic shut-off, and the most important was the adapatbility to use on a larger commercial charcoal/wood smoker with the purchase of a fan for that smoker.That's why I opted for the BBQGuru Procom 4. I have no regrets. I wish it would have cost less, but it certainly has done absolutely everything I want it to do, and can do it from 200 yds away. That is a real plus for me.
Bradley should have implemented something more sophisticated for their smoker, and the P.I.D. certainly is far better than the slider and innacurate thermometer in the door, and to me is an excellent thing to consider if you don't want the features or the price of the Procom4. It is a great addition to the Bradley and about time someone implemented it's use..
Thanks for allowing the rant!
Bill
<i>There is room on earth for all God's creatures....on my plate next to the mashed potatoes.</i>
Aloha
I just purchased a controller and I noticed that your controller is a 220...can the same setup be used for a 110..that is the electrical connections on the controller. Also..can the controller be used as an on and off switch ?
Thanks
Kamano
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Lasse</i>
<br />Hi,
I saw that one picture was very unsharp but still usable.[:D]
3 pix, front, back and a quick sketch, power.jpg, that may be used by people that can make the right conclusions of the drawing.
http://smoker.americats.com/rex/
I connected the generator to one outlet and the control box to another outlet and from the control box to the smoke box.
Is this what you wanted?
/Lasse
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Onipaa/Ku'oko'a
Steadfast Freedom
The advantage of the P.I.D. is the ability to adjust the voltage to the application. (I think) The one I have is an Omega, and has a rating of 100-240 VAC to 132 to 240 VDC. (Remember it was used on Espresso Machine with a thermocouple and Solid State Relay. The PID's come in many configurations. Lasse has used, no doubt, the correct one. As long as you can vary input and output, the PID will adapt within the range and learn to control the temp with the voltage supplied. (That's my lay interpretation, anyway.)
Bill
<i>There is room on earth for all God's creatures....on my plate next to the mashed potatoes.</i>
Hi,
I got my controller from Hong Kong but for you in USA I think that this link might be better:
http://stores.ebay.com/ColdfusionX-Electronics
I saw that they have different types and the one I use is the:
"Celsius 999C Digital PID Temperature Control controller" 220 Volt.
They are available in both 115 and 220 Volt and in Fahreheit or Celcius.
You need knowledge about electricity to install it.
The controller has an Alarm Out that can be connected to a wireless doorbell or something else. By this I mean that you connect the output to the sender unit of the doorbell and have the doorbell unit with you. Follow this link to a doorbell:
http://www.impexol.cn/2004/11-3/1559257530.html
/Lasse
Given my history of smoking... learned how to feel the smoke to control the temp, and how to taste the smoke for cure, I guess I've just gotten lazy in my older age.
This unit has kind of caught my eye:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-Digital-PID-Temperature-Control-Controller_W0QQitemZ7543861078QQcategoryZ50974QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
I'm sure it would not take me long to figure out how to set it up, but my problem is now time. Just too much work coming in.
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
Aloha Lassie
How would you connect the door bell sender to the controller.? As you can see I am not too knowledgeble about electricity. Hope you dont mind the questions. I purchased the controller...not knowing with in the world Im doing...so I have to rely on the experts for advice. I have made more sawdust sausage...then a wood mill. I need to have something to help me with the temp settings...
Mahalo @ Aloha (thank you)
Kamano
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Lasse</i>
<br />Hi,
I got my controller from Hong Kong but for you in USA I think that this link might be better:
http://stores.ebay.com/ColdfusionX-Electronics
I saw that they have different types and the one I use is the:
"Celsius 999C Digital PID Temperature Control controller" 220 Volt.
They are available in both 115 and 220 Volt and in Fahreheit or Celcius.
You need knowledge about electricity to install it.
The controller has an Alarm Out that can be connected to a wireless doorbell or something else. By this I mean that you connect the output to the sender unit of the doorbell and have the doorbell unit with you. Follow this link to a doorbell:
http://www.impexol.cn/2004/11-3/1559257530.html
/Lasse
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Onipaa/Ku'oko'a
Steadfast Freedom
Opps sorry...I mis-spelled your name...ya know us Hawaiians are poor spellers......lol..I flunked spelling in Dental School too...lol
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Kamanodental</i>
<br />Aloha Lassie
How would you connect the door bell sender to the controller.? As you can see I am not too knowledgeble about electricity. Hope you dont mind the questions. I purchased the controller...not knowing with in the world Im doing...so I have to rely on the experts for advice. I have made more sawdust sausage...then a wood mill. I need to have something to help me with the temp settings...
Mahalo @ Aloha (thank you)
Kamano
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Lasse</i>
<br />Hi,
I got my controller from Hong Kong but for you in USA I think that this link might be better:
http://stores.ebay.com/ColdfusionX-Electronics
I saw that they have different types and the one I use is the:
"Celsius 999C Digital PID Temperature Control controller" 220 Volt.
They are available in both 115 and 220 Volt and in Fahreheit or Celcius.
You need knowledge about electricity to install it.
The controller has an Alarm Out that can be connected to a wireless doorbell or something else. By this I mean that you connect the output to the sender unit of the doorbell and have the doorbell unit with you. Follow this link to a doorbell:
http://www.impexol.cn/2004/11-3/1559257530.html
/Lasse
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Onipaa/Ku'oko'a
Steadfast Freedom
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Onipaa/Ku'oko'a
Steadfast Freedom
Hi Lasse,
Can you please post the link to the site where you bought the controller in Hong Kong? Thanks
Tom
Smokin' in Switzerland
Hi Lasse,
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Can you please post the link to the site where you bought the controller in Hong Kong? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
3rensho took the words right out of my mouth!![;)]
Manxman.
I have the link in my email at home. Will post later. It's still e-bay so the Coldfusion linked earlier has the same controller and he has shipped to UK before.
The controller that Old's linked to looks interesting too but it's a bit more pricy. Just a bit and it was not available at the time I looked for one.
With the controller inside a box it can be aken elsewhere and used in different other projects. Keeping the oil in the frying machine at the correct and accurate temp.[:D]
Kamanodental. Voff-voff. [:D] I even got a credit card with the name Lassie so you are not the only one mistaken.[:D] (And I'm not a female either)
I have not connected the alarm to anything myself so I don't know if the signal out is steady as long as the temp is above the temp set for the alarm or if the signal is pulsed. Yet to be investigated.
I have a wireless temp meter that I check the temp on so I haven't seen the need to investigate the alarm output, yet.
Hypothetic:
Let the alarm out trigger a relay. Either an on/off or a type that goes on for a second to "press the button" and then wait for 5-10 seconds before it "press the button" again as long as the output from the alarm is on.
It depends on how the output from the alarm is before you can decide how to use it.
Sorry I didn't had more info on the alarm thing.
/Lasse
Lasse
On the unit I linked here which of the therocouples would you use?
Thanks
Raye
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
Aloha Lasse
Is this schematic wiring the wiring of your plastic box controller.? Hmmmm that question does't sound correct.... in other words is this schematic a duplicate of the wiring in your controller box.?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Lasse</i>
<br />Hi,
I saw that one picture was very unsharp but still usable.[:D]
3 pix, front, back and a quick sketch, power.jpg, that may be used by people that can make the right conclusions of the drawing.
http://smoker.americats.com/rex/
I connected the generator to one outlet and the control box to another outlet and from the control box to the smoke box.
Is this what you wanted?
/Lasse
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Onipaa/Ku'oko'a
Steadfast Freedom
Hi,
The link to Hong Kong E-bay is:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7543565805&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_ReBay_Pr4_PcY_BID
Don't overbid each other.
Old's: Follow the link above to see wich one I have.
Kamanodental: Mostly yes[:)] I might have taken the black to the relay out instead of the red. Leave the unit to a friend that can hook it up for you if you are unsure what to do.
I have all the wiring inside the box. I just connect from a wall outlet to the control-box and from the control-box to the smoker box.
Makes sense?
/Lasse
Dear Smokers,
Please tell how to attach pic into the reply in here. Thanks.
Regards,
Tai
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by RJR1876</i>
<br />Dear Smokers,
Please tell how to attach pic into the reply in here. Thanks.
Regards,
Tai
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http://www.bradleysmoker.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1166
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
I found this controller (Ranco Digital)on the web for ~$70.00. It looks like it would control the heater easily. The links I found were for greenhouse and aquarium heat/cool controlling.
http://www.automatedaquariums.com/ranco.htm
Hi!
I have modified my smoker by adding an extra heating element and yes I was able to go over 200F with a boll of water inside. I used and old bread maker heating element, But the temps was very difficult to control so I found this controller.
http://www.mod-tronic.com/Love_Temperature_Controllers_TS.html
16 Amp with the probe and you can pick the color of the digit. $85.00 Canadian.
It will control the temperature to 300F or 150C.
I was aiming for 225F to 250F which gave me the best result before on my old smoker. It's also the temp that Paul Kirk does the briskets, ribs and Pork but.
This is the spec sheet.
http://www.mod-tronic.com/Love_Temperature_Controllers_TS.html
Can't wait to try it!
Keep on smoking!
[:p]
Sory!
Spec Sheet.[:D]
http://www.mod-tronic.com/Love/pdf/ts_data_sheet.pdf
Pick and Norbert,
Welcome to the forums and thanks for the information. How about some pictures? If you have no where to host them then <b><font color="blue">E-mail</font id="blue"></b> (//
[email protected]) them to me and I will host them for you.
Again welcome to the forums.
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
Thanks!
Yes, I will post some pictures soon.
Norbert
Can you describe how this would connect to a BS? Is it as simple as plugging it into the wall and plugging your BS into the controller? I know the bisquette advancer would be connected directly to the wall. As you can tell I haven't seen one of these up close.
Thanks,
Mike
Hi Mike!
My problem with the smoker is that it can't reach the proper temp before the meat dry up. Yesterday I got it at 300F in 5min, just to see if the system works. If you use it for cold smoke or as a dehydrator one element is all you need but I wanted more.
You have to take the back off and disconnect the slider in the front. The recommended controller will control the two elements. The smoke generator will work on it own. Take the white side of the power cord and connect it to one side of each element. Then take the black to the controller who will act as a switch. From the out of the controller to the other side of each element.
I recommend using a main switch on the black wire before every thing to turn the system on or off. You will also have to bring power to the controller to feed it.
I made a drawing but I can't put it in the text area. It doesn't copy.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I made a drawing but I can't put it in the text area. It doesn't copy.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">It needs to be upload to a web server. Email it to me and I will host and post the drawing. E-mail (//
[email protected])
Olds
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/gif/Launch47.gif)
I'm going to do two things but want confirmation on one idea. I've read here that adding smoke past 140F internal meat temperature gains nothing. Does everyone agree this is the case?
Based on this, I am now looking for a dual input temp controller (might just build one to keep the cost low). One would be used to control the BS box temperature. The other would be connected to an internal meat thermometer; set to 140F; and wired to shutoff the bisquette heater and advance motor. If I'm successful, I'll try to explain how it was done.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pick</i>
<br />I'm going to do two things but want confirmation on one idea. I've read here that adding smoke past 140F internal meat temperature gains nothing. Does everyone agree this is the case?
Based on this, I am now looking for a dual input temp controller (might just build one to keep the cost low). One would be used to control the BS box temperature. The other would be connected to an internal meat thermometer; set to 140F; and wired to shutoff the bisquette heater and advance motor. If I'm successful, I'll try to explain how it was done.
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First most of us apply smoke by time, not by the internal temperature. For example, if a certain product needs 3 hours of smoke, and it would take 4 hours to reach the internal temperature of 140 F., then you have applied too much smoke. Also, it is an advantage to keep the generator powered on, because it adds additional heat to the cabinet. A cut off for the generator is a nice added feature, but I don't see any advantage in this.
I am not sure about the 140 F internal temperature, though I'm sure I am in the minority or possibly alone on this [:D]. I do agree at some point, meat will no longer absorb the smoke flavor, but smoke will continue to adhere to the outside of the meat, at a much reduce rate. The reason I don't agree with the 140 F. internal temperature is because the surface of the meat will be much higher. I'm not positive, but I would think that the surface of the meat on thicker cuts would be much higher than the surface of thinner cuts when they reach an internal temperature of 140 F; so I feel the surface temperature has to be the factor, but what that temperature is I would not know.