As of now, I've ordered the following parts:
1 x 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SSR control output) (SYL-2352) = $45.50
1 x K Type Thermocouple w/ alligator clip tip. (TC-K6A) = $10.95
1 x Panel mount connector for K thermocouple (TCCON) = $5.36
4 x K type thermocouple extension wire, 26 Ga. (KX26GA) = $2.68
1 x 25A SSR (RS1A40D25) = $15.00
1 x Heat Sink for Solid State Relay, 25A (HS25) = $9.65
1 x SS Heater, Tempco CSF00131 900W = $46.72
Still need:
High temperature wire
Various fasteners
Fan parts.
Questions about a fan. I've come across at least one thread:
http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?186-Fan
And one offered by a web site, but is quite expensive:
http://smokeandstuff.com/index.php/products/complete-fan-kit
I still have questions about a fan setup:
1) part number for motor with sufficiently long shaft
2) where to get fan blade(s)
other thoughts about a fan?
Thanks for all your help guys
Regards
Phil
Here's a link to a detailed thread about the fans and some research I did when I was choosing one: Circulation Fan (http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=19195.msg246155;topicseen#msg246155)
I ordered the Granger item # 4M079 in that list. Also, I bought a 2 1/2" blade from them, too. The 2 1/2" has a 45cfm airflow versus a 2" with a 30cfm.
Hi Ted,
This is the motor, right?
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=4m079&op=search&Ntt=4m079&N=0&sst=subset (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=4m079&op=search&Ntt=4m079&N=0&sst=subset)
And is this the fan?
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/AIRDRIVE-Axial-Flow-Fan-Blade-7C723?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/AIRDRIVE-Axial-Flow-Fan-Blade-7C723?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1)
Does the fan have grub screws for mounting?
Did you buy two fans, one for inside and one for cooling the motor?
Do you have pix of how you did the mounting?
How does it all work physically?
Wrt to the PID how when do you turn the fan on?
Sorry for all the questions :)
Best
Phil
Did that last post go through? I did it from tapatalk and I'm not sure?
Thanks Phil
Just for future reference the part numbers, and links to Grainger are included in the thread that contains the circulation fan instructions. I just tested the links and they work.
Your last post was received. Some questions I can answer.
You only need one motor, but two fan blades. One blade gets installed right in front of the motor. Picture of how the blade are installed are in the thread.
Also there are pictures of how the fan was mounted in a couple off different ways.
The fan should be plugged into it's own outlet so that it can run continuously. If you are using a PID, that frees up the outlet located on the back of the generator. You can plug your fan into that outlet.
Quote from: phild on October 08, 2011, 08:11:40 PMHow does it all work physically?
The motor and blade you listed are the ones I have. I bought them at the same time I added a second element and PID controller last winter. I still haven't installed the fan (yet) but it will probably be a project I'll do this coming winter. The second blade on the outside of the cabinet acts as a heatsink to capture and dissipate a lot of the heat coming down the shaft from the cooking chamber.
I'll generally be following this guide: Circulation Fan Install (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?186-Fan)
The SYL-2352 PID controller that you ordered and the one I've been using has contacts for two different alarm outputs. They are rated for up to 3A. The Grainger 4M079 fan motor is 0.96A. I'm going to wire it to one of the PID alarm outputs and set it to turn the fan on when the chamber temp reaches 100*F. Actually, I already programmed the alarm to do that and I can see the little red LED come on on the PID controller. The wiring I have connected to it just doesn't turn anything on yet. It was easy to add the future wiring for the fan when I still had the PID in my hand than to do it later. I suppose someone could have the fan come on with a hand-operated on/off switch or just plugging it directly into an outlet but the alarm relays were there and I like to tinker. :)
Did you d/l the PDF instruction manual yet for your PID controller? It is a great guide to help understand what you can do with it and how to wire various things, such as making use of the alarm relay outputs.
PID Controller SYL-2352 Instruction Manual (http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Manual%20version%203.4.pdf)
Now I bought a used convection fan for a range off of e-bay for about $25. The fan is controlled by my Auberins Dual-Probe PID and I am using the 900w finned element with great results ;D
(http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0798.jpg) (http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0799.jpg) (http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0800.jpg) (http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0801.jpg)
I am doing the fan mod also an d was going to order the kit but think I will just order from grainger now. Keep us posted as to which fan motor and blades you decide on please.
@Muebe,
Am I right in thinking that you put your fan on the top left as opposed to between the v tray and the first rack?
Was there a specific reason for that choice? Does it work well?
Thanks
Phil
Are there any thoughts about the amount of air which should be moved?
The motor/fan mentioned above is capable of 45 cfm. Is that about right, is more better?
Thanks
Phil
Quote from: phild on October 09, 2011, 03:53:55 PM
@Muebe,
Am I right in thinking that you put your fan on the top left as opposed to between the v tray and the first rack?
Was there a specific reason for that choice? Does it work well?
Thanks
Phil
Yes my fan is located in the top left corner. The point of the fan is to circulate the air so IMHO location is not a big issue. That location was the easiest place for me to install it with my setup. And this fan would not have fit between the V-tray and element.
Being that the fan is designed for a oven I do get plenty of air flow. It works very well for me. I get very even temps. I never need to rotate racks. And I get a much faster cooking times. And while the convection fan is on the built-in cabinet temperature gauge will actually register almost the same temps as the PID is reading ;D
However... because of the fan blade size I had to move the top rack to a lower location in the cabinet. I thought about trimming the size of the fan blades but opted not to although it could be done ;)
Quote from: muebe on October 09, 2011, 04:13:03 PMHowever... because of the fan blade size I had to move the top rack to a lower location in the cabinet. I thought about trimming the size of the fan blades but opted not to although it could be done ;)
It looks like the fan reduced the cabinet to a 3 rack instead of 4. What is the diameter of that thing? When I was trying to decide what to get I learned that a 2" dia. blade from Grainger produced about 30 cfm and a 2.5" blade was 45 cfm.
Quote from: TedEbear on October 09, 2011, 05:29:52 PM
Quote from: muebe on October 09, 2011, 04:13:03 PMHowever... because of the fan blade size I had to move the top rack to a lower location in the cabinet. I thought about trimming the size of the fan blades but opted not to although it could be done ;)
It looks like the fan reduced the cabinet to a 3 rack instead of 4. What is the diameter of that thing? When I was trying to decide what to get I learned that a 2" dia. blade from Grainger produced about 30 cfm and a 2.5" blade was 45 cfm.
It has a 5 inch diameter. I re-located the rails for the top rack down and between the second and 3rd rack. I still have 4 racks but that re-located rack is mounted between two other racks so it is good for jerky, nuts, cheese ect but anything with height will not fit on that rack. The only time I have filled all four racks is when I am making things like jerky and cheese anyways.
The fan is well made, durable, and can take the heat. The mounting distance is perfect fit for the cabinet. And I got it for $25 on e-bay so you can't beat that either ;)
All of these fit the Grainger Item # 4M079 motor:
3.5", 100 CFM
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Propeller-2PYP9 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Propeller-2PYP9)
4", 200 CFM
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Propeller-2PYR1 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Propeller-2PYR1)
4.5", 300 CFM
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Propeller-2PYN5 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Propeller-2PYN5)
5", 400 CFM
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Propeller-2PYN7 (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Propeller-2PYN7)
Muebe,
Have you any idea what the CFM of you motor/fan is? I guess I'm trying to figure out what an optimal CFM is.
Thanks
Phil
Well I am not sure of the CFM of the fan. I know it moves a lot of air. But it also works really well for me ;)
I am not sure what the optimum CFM would be for a Bradley cabinet. I imagine mine is over-sized since it was made for installation in a 30inch range oven and that has more cubic inches then the Bradley cabinet.
The size, type of fan blade, and RPM speed all affect the CFM rating. So even though my fan blade is 5 inches it might not be 400 CFM. It could be less....or more :o
One more thing to consider is that my puck burner is never located inside the cabinet due to my Bradley setup. A strong fan running will affect the puck burner smoke output. I am able to smoke with the fan on because my puck burner is located below my cabinet and is fed into a smoke chimney. I have no problems with smoke backing down the tube with the fan on.
here is my heater and blower mod, its been running orginally installed in late 2008 or early 2009 and still running strong
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=17329.0
I ordered the fan kit from smoke and stuff last week. Hoping it gets here soon.
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