Went to do some sticks this morning and no heat from the Bradley. I have dual elements and the Arbur. Unpluged the arbur and went back to direct connection but still no heat. Controller lighs up but elements not getting hot.
Any ideas ?? What should I do with the meat?
Thanks
Try plugging the tower directly into a wall outlet. If the elements still don't get hot then it's probably either the inline fuse or the temp sensor gone bad. Both are located inside the tower.
Double check that everything is plugged in all the way.
If I plug tower direct into outlet won't it by pass the sensor and fuse ? I do have plugged in direct now and the elements are heating O.K. got red in a couple of minutes.
So I checked fuse, looks OK, sensor wire?
I have the Bradley Digital 6 rack.
Any other help avalible??
If, when plugged directly into the outlet, the elements heat up it would indicate to me that you are not getting power from the smoke generator to the tower. Check the power jumper cable that goes from the generator to the tower. Unplug both ends and then replug firmly. Hopefully that will restore power to the tower from the generator.
Quote from: bundy on December 06, 2012, 05:19:21 AM
If I plug tower direct into outlet won't it by pass the sensor and fuse ?
There are two fuses. The one you can see is on the back of the SG box. There's another inline fuse inside the back of the tower. That's also where the overtemp sensor is located.
Since the elements are heating when you plug the tower directly into an outlet then something is wrong inside the SG box. As KyNola suggested, be sure that the cord between the SG and tower is plugged in tightly at both ends
If it is and the elements are still not heating then you might unplug everything, remove the cover off the SG and see if there's a wire loose inside. If you have a multimeter you can further troubleshoot where the problem might be inside the SG.
OK I will have to take the SG apart and ck it.
Thanks All
You didn't get any "E" errors?
The below link will help you troubleshoot:
Bradley FAQ's (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?481-Bradley-Smoker-FAQ-s&p=748#post748)
It did give a E1 error. I called customer service, they told me to ck the voltage coming out of the SG, I did showed 120.
Even if I bypass the SG and plug the Auber direct to the tower it still won't work.
Finally put all back together with the Auber hook up and it looks like it wants to power up but the elements only get warm, tower temp 95* after 15 minutes and I have it set for 130*
Don't know what to do or what part is fault to order a new part??
Any Ideas would be helpful.
Thanks
Bundy
I think a few of the guys didn't realize you are running a PID.
First of all, put you sticks in the fridge, they will be fine until you get this sorted out.
There is clearly nothing wrong with anything in the tower. The test was to plug it in directly and it passed.
Now I assume you normally plug your PID directly into a wall outlet and not into the smoke generator. Correct?
Next question, What PID are you using?
If it is a programable PID do you have the programs set correctly?
Is it powering up correctly and are the LEDs lighting up when it is calling for heat?
I have to run out for a few minutes but I'll be back.
Mike
Bundy
I just realized your post was from this morning. Did ya get it figured out?
Mike
The E1 error is because of the small thin sensor wire that runs from the generator to the tower. Unplug it and then plug it back in and see if that stops the E1 error. You may have to do it several times to insure a good connection with the sensor cable.
I'll yield to Mike on his expertise with the PID involved. He certainly knows his stuff. Mike, when he said he had heat when the tower was plugged directly into the power source, I wonder if the PID was involved or just straight from the tower? I'm thinking you are on the right track with the PID properly connected and programmed.
Mike is da man so bundy, so listen to what Mike tells ya. He will have you up and going in no time.
Mike, no I have not got it working yet. I have tried a new sensor wire also,
The PID ( an Auber-WS) lights up and green light shows power going out. Have it programed for 130*-3hours on 1st stage and 165*- to 152* stop on the second stage.
It only gets a little warm and stops. I do have it plugged into the power strip bar along with everything else.
It has worked great all the other times I have used it.
Thanks for any help.
try without the power strip, directly to the wall
Quote from: bundy on December 06, 2012, 09:01:18 PM
It only gets a little warm and stops. I do have it plugged into the power strip bar along with everything else.
The Bradley doesn't like extension cords or power strips. People have had low heat problems when using them with their smoker.
Well I tried unplugging the Power Strip and plugged both cords into the wall outlet, didn't seem to make a difference, elements are only warm at best. The -H- symbol did come up on the Auber ( PID )???????????
Seems like I'm getting 120 volts to the tower but not the elements.
Quote from: bundy on December 07, 2012, 04:23:46 AM
Seems like I'm getting 120 volts to the tower but not the elements.
I thought you said yesterday that when you plugged the tower directly into a wall outlet the elements heated up and got red within a couple of minutes. It's not a problem in the tower, if that's the case.
That's true, when I run a cord direct from the tower to outlet it worked.
Now the power comes from the PID which is plugged into the wall outlet.
Doesn't make sense to me as it reads 120 volt coming out of the PID/Tower cord but when I plug it in to the tower the elements are not heating.
Bundy
I'm sure it's something with the PID.
Can you tell me exactly how you have the temps and times programed in?
I'm assuming it's the WS-1200 single probe PID?
Mike
Mike, It's a WSD-1500CPH Dual Probe.
I programmed first stage for 130* for 3 hours, second stage is set for 165* until meat probe shows 152*. I did not clear any of the stages after that.
Bundy
Sorry, I'm at work... it always gets in the way. ;D
Those settings should work. I would step through the settings and make sure they are correct.
When you plug it in and try to run it does the "OUT" led come on to indicate it's sending power to the elements?
Mike
Yes the green LED out light comes on, stays on, recycles after awhile and I put a volt meter on the end of the cord going to the tower and it shows it's putting out 120 volts when the green light is on. It's just not heating up or getting to the elements. Is there something in the tower between the elements and the power cord plug in?
And why does it heat up if I just run a cord from the tower to the oulet??
That's a good question! ;) :D
Are you using the same cord?
Making sure it's seated correctly?
Mike
By chance you wouldn't have changed the parameter setting called "OUt"? It should be set to "100". It's on page 12 of the manual.
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/WSD-1503CPH.pdf
Mike
What temperature does the Auber display show Bundy?
I will ck cord and settings again when I get home from work.
Waltz, The auber shows about 56* when the air temp is 50*, warmed up only 5* in 15 min.
To test the output from the PID I would:
Plug a lamp into the PID and verify that the bulb is as bright as when plugged into a wall socket.
If the bulb is not as bright then there is a power problem from the PID.
Use a different power cord from the PID to the smoker and see if that makes a difference.
If there is no change then the problem has to be in the skoker.
I have not looked closely but think this can be done:
Pull the hot wire that goes to the element from rhe thermal cutoff and plug it on the plug. This will bypas the sensor.
See if it heats properly.
I would strongly suspect the smoker since both the {ID and the SG have the prpblem
Quote from: DaWiz on December 07, 2012, 10:31:55 AM
To test the output from the PID I would:
Plug a lamp into the PID and verify that the bulb is as bright as when plugged into a wall socket.
If the bulb is not as bright then there is a power problem from the PID.
Use a different power cord from the PID to the smoker and see if that makes a difference.
If there is no change then the problem has to be in the skoker.
This is an excellent idea to test the PID.
Quote from: DaWiz on December 07, 2012, 10:31:55 AM
I have not looked closely but think this can be done:
Pull the hot wire that goes to the element from rhe thermal cutoff and plug it on the plug. This will bypas the sensor.
See if it heats properly.
I would strongly suspect the smoker since both the {ID and the SG have the prpblem
I don't think there is a problem with the actual tower or any wiring in it because he can plug the tower directly into the wall outlet and the elements turn red hot. I think it has to be a problem with the cord from the PID to the tower, The settings or parameters in the PID or there is a problem in the PID itself.
Don't hesitate to get in touch with Suyi Lou from Auber and see if he can help you out. I spoke to him a number of times and he is great at responding to emails even on weekends.
Mike
Well here is the latest update:
I again plugged direct into the wall from tower to comfirm what I thought I saw and sure enough the element DO get red hot.
So then I measured voltage at the end of the power cord from the PID and sure enough is reads 120 volts. So I assume it must be from the plug in in the back of the tower to the element somewhere.
Then I swapped power cords and used the one from the SG to the PID to run to the Tower. Lo and behold it now heats the elements up?? Then I put the other PID/Tower cord to the SG to PID. Now it appears than the SG is not getting hot enough to smoke the pucks even though the digital read out says all is working and the volt meter says 120 is coming to it.
So I guess it must be that cord?? Wonder if I can get something like that local?
Quote from: bundy on December 08, 2012, 04:21:59 AM
Well here is the latest update:
I again plugged direct into the wall from tower to comfirm what I thought I saw and sure enough the element DO get red hot.
So then I measured voltage at the end of the power cord from the PID and sure enough is reads 120 volts. So I assume it must be from the plug in in the back of the tower to the element somewhere.
Then I swapped power cords and used the one from the SG to the PID to run to the Tower. Lo and behold it now heats the elements up?? Then I put the other PID/Tower cord to the SG to PID. Now it appears than the SG is not getting hot enough to smoke the pucks even though the digital read out says all is working and the volt meter says 120 is coming to it.
So I guess it must be that cord?? Wonder if I can get something like that local?
Bundy
That's good news and an easy fix! ;)
Which cord is it? Is it the one with a standard male plug on one end with a computer style female plug on the other end?
If it is you can simply use a computer cord like this:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200424CVF&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwordsCA&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwordsCA-_-pla-_-NA-_-NA
Mike
It is Mike, but looks more heavy duty than the computer cord, thicker wire?
I picked up some computer cords for my setup at Radio Shack. No problems with therm.
There must be thousands of no longer used computers with good cords just laying around. I am using a old computer cord with my 900 watt element with no problems.
Alan
Bundy
Too bad your not near me. Man, at the office I have buckets of those cords. I agree with the others, I've never had a problem using the computer cords. You could have a look around and see if you can find one with 14 gauge wire.
Mike
Thanks all for the help, hopefully won't have anymore problems. Was by you Mike maybe in Oct. when I went to Alberta moose hunting!
Quote from: bundy on December 08, 2012, 09:28:18 AM
Thanks all for the help, hopefully won't have anymore problems. Was by you Mike maybe in Oct. when I went to Alberta moose hunting!
No problem Bundy.
You should have stopped in for "pop"! ;)
Did you guys get any moose? My brother-in-law and his dad got 2 not far from here. I just made 100 lbs of moose sausage for them a couple weeks ago.
Mike
I did get one, finally! Don't think I will go back there again, to much oil well work going on.
The one I did get was only a 2 year old but ended up being really tough meat, don't know what happened.
I will be making sausage soon if you want to share your recipe??
My guide/friend called your "pop" "wobblies" thought that was funny!
We used to always call them wobblie pops too.
I used my Kielbasa recipe that's posted on the recipe site. I used 50% moose and 50% 70/30 pork. I used 38/42 hog casings and they turned out fantastic.
http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?784-Mike-s-Kielbasa&p=1186#post1186
Mike