Ok so I have a OBS I have had it about 3years I now have a Aubers PID that I would never smoke without now I was wondering where and how easy it is to replace the 500w element with a new upgraded 900w element hope someone can help a guy out
Just as easy to add another 500w element, but I'm sure someone will be by soon enough with the requested info.(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/12/dy2apyzy.jpg)
How easy was it to install another 500w what did it take to do that and would I need to do something to my PID after
Nothing to the PID. It will function the same. It was easy. There are instructions on the recipe site. Im on my phone now. Somebody will provide the link soon or I'll post when I get home.
Fireguy, the dual element mod is pretty easy. Check out the link below.
www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?572-Additional-Heating-Element-Modification
There is an adaptation of this approach that is even easier. Rather than wire the new element back to the plug, simply use a loop fastener on each end of a short piece of 14 gauge high temp wire to extend the power supply from the original heating element. One forum member has been smoking using that approach without problems for quite some time.
A couple of suggestions. The easiest way I have found to notch the ceramic holders for the original heating element is to use a grit covered round blade for a hacksaw. I've used the one made by Stanley and it notched the holders in a fraction of the time it took me with a Dremel. The second thing is to consider using a hole punch to make the holes in the reflector to hold the second heating element. The metal in the reflector is very light (how heavy does a reflector have to be anyway?). The metal tends to catch when you drill through it and bend up/tear the reflector. A hole punch should avoid that problem.
Ok so it doesn't sound very hard at all do most of you that put a second element in have a fan mod also
I don't have a fan mod but it's on the rainy day list. On a 6 rack I get as much as a 30 degree temp swing from bottom to top rack. Fan would be nice to even the temps out...
You'll love the second element for temp recovery and initial heat up. Reduced cook times pretty good as well.
The temp difference does even out over time as the load heat up however...
Hi Fireguy06;
Welcome to the forum.
The dual element is easy. I suggest you follow the instructions on the link tskeeter provided. If you use the piggyback wiring method, by looping the two elements together, make sure you disconnect the temperature control and by pass it. It was not originally installed to controll 1000 watts, that is what TedEBear did when he piggybacked the two elements. Though the link shows the DBS, the wiring would be the same as the OBS. Don't go by wiring color, but follow the wiring. Over the years, Bradley has changed the colors of the wiring.
If you want to add an additional On/Off switch for the second element the below link has instructions for that:
Additional Element with On/Off Switch (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?578-Additional-Heating-Element-for-OBS-with-On-Off-Control&p=917#post917)
I didn't install the fan, since the back panel inside the smoker has warped on me. Though I do have a second OBS, that I plan to install the fan.
Quote from: Fireguy06 on September 11, 2013, 02:36:58 PMand would I need to do something to my PID after
I have a built-in Auber PID. After I installed a second element I ran the autotune and let it configure itself for the quicker ramp up speed to the setpoint.
If you have the plug-n-play version there are some settings they say to change in the programming to work with the new 1000W heating capacity. I'm not sure what they are but it has been posted elsewhere.
Quote from: TedEbear on September 12, 2013, 04:46:58 AM
Quote from: Fireguy06 on September 11, 2013, 02:36:58 PMand would I need to do something to my PID after
I have a built-in Auber PID. After I installed a second element I ran the autotune and let it configure itself for the quicker ramp up speed to the setpoint.
If you have the plug-n-play version there are some settings they say to change in the programming to work with the new 1000W heating capacity. I'm not sure what they are but it has been posted elsewhere.
The value that gets changed on the plug-n-play when you do the dual element mod is the P value. Don't remember just what the change is. You either change the P value from 70 to 140 or from 140 to 70 to make the PID recognize that you have twice the heating capacity available.
I, also, have not added a circulation fan since my dual element mod. I think that the fan write ups I have seen are kind of complicated and the results don't seem to completely resolve heat stratification issues.
I have noticed that it looks like the back wall of the cabinet gets pretty hot. So, I'm thinking about how to try to minimize how much that area heats up. I'm wondering if a secondary heat shield, behind the original heating element, would help much. I'm thinking that if I can create a small air gap between the wall and the heat shield (the heat shield would not contact the back wall), I might be able to cool down the back wall a bit.
Fireguy,
Extra element or a 900 watt are a great improvement to this smoker.
Look over install options for both, and do the one you feel most comfortable with.
I went with finned because I think heat comes off the fins better (more surface area). But I've got 100 watts less.
May be a tossup as to effectiveness.
Here's a 900 watt install thread. Mine is on page 3.
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=31078.0
Good luck.
Tskeeter is correct on the PID setting. Change the P setting from 70 to 140 and you're all set. I haven't done an autotune on my Auber since I got it last year and with that setting, dual element 6 rack digital I stay +/- 10 consistently after reaching my target temp.
Thanks for all the advice everyone now I just need to get that second element and what has everyone ideas for a fan pros and cons