I have a problem with my smoker and would like some input. I have been a member of the forum for about a year but have never posted. I have, however read what you "regulars" have posted and I have laughed at the humor and cried (out of joy) at how incredible the smoked meats taste if I follow your advise :).
So here is my problem, I am smoking the good old favs, brisket and pulled pork for both my family's christmas party and my wife's family party (I'll be under the microscope for sure). BUT my smoker with inadvertantly shut of and has done the last 3 times of use. The light by the temperature control with shut of and the heating element. It seems to start again after some time. I am not sure how long though. My fear is that during this weekend of parties it will shut of and not return. Any thoughts????
SdB, Thanks for starting to post. Sounds like a OBS, so not sure from your post how to help ... my experience is DBS.
1) Call Bradley
2) What else is happening is it at the same temp that it shuts off?
3) Does it run for a good while before you notice it happening?
??? High temp cut off???
It doesn't shut off at a certain temp. I'll be cruisin' along at 205 deg for 3 or 4 hours and then.....Nothing. My smoker is a SS and about a year old.
This sounds like a bad high limit switch. It is located in the center of the back of the unit.
It is under the metal cover in the back of the unit. When you take off the back DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREWS FOR THE POWER PLUG UNLESS YOU REALLY HAVE TO.
(http://www.susanminor.org/Rayeimages/fan5.jpg)
Can I or Should I just bypass this sensor?
Nope, you dont want to do that. Call Bradley, they have a lot of them.
I agree with all above. To my understanding, that is a bi-metal, one-time only fuse that once tripped, will never work properly again.
IMO, either your smoker got above 300-315F at some point, or you just got a bum sensor.
And, to repeat, do not attempt to bypass it. Doing so could result in at best a ruined meal and a melted-down-to-a-pile-of-goo smoker, or worse could be the cause of your house fire.
Kirk
I had this problem once and it was the control board behind the slider switch. Apparently moisture got to it and shorted it out.
Quote from: Bassman on December 19, 2006, 01:48:12 PM
I had this problem once and it was the control board behind the slider switch. Apparently moisture got to it and shorted it out.
Jack,
Did your smoker work intermittently or not at all? My previous knowledge of the topic says if you short out the board, it's toast & won't do a thing.
Just curious,
Kirk
I wondered about that. The plastic pcs that holds the light and temp slide was cracked when I bought it. I thought it might be getting moisture in it.
Kirk,
Yes, my smoker worked intermittenly. It would work for awhile then shut off, a little while later it came back on. In my mind (which is very limited) when a circut board doesn't work it's shorted out. This might not be accurate terminology, I guess i should have said it was broke ;D. Anyway the problem was that little control board behind the slider switch. Cheers!
I am guessing this was a 'smoking with the vent too closed" type of issue?
West Coast,
Now that you say that I beleive that could be it. I do smoke with the vent shut completely. I want more smoke to stay in.
Is that a bad move?
I did call Bradley and they are sending me the plastic pcs that houses the temp control and the light, and a new high temp shut off.
Their customer service was actually incredible.
Rob
Several threads here about venting. Needs to be open to allow air flow and moisture to escape from the unit. Condensation is not good for any part of the process, especially the equipment. You will want to adjust your vent open enough (at a minimum) to prevent smoke from escaping at the crack between the Smoke Generator and the Tower.
It seems logical in my mind also that a closed vent creates a supercharged smoke enviornment. BUT it really doesnt work to an advantage that way.
I usually just adjust mine to keep the smoke from backing out.
You can also ruin your generator. The smoke and moisture backing out of the generator can gum up the mechanical mechanism, and it may also cause an electrical short.
One sure way of always keeping a minimum opening on the vent is to run the meat probe cable through one of the vent openings. It will prevent you from accidently bumping it all the way closed.
I never posted my solution for my problem. Bradley sent me a new front control pcs (the black pcs with the legs and the slider). They also sent me an high temp switch. I just change the front control pcs and that fixed her. It was getting some moisture and shorting out.
Thanks for the update. It's helps to know the outcome of a problem, and how it was solved.
If the moisture was coming from the cabinet, try opening the vent a little more to allow the moisture to escape. Also I have applied a tip another member had posted, and raised the front end of my BS a 1/4" to ensure that what ever extra moisture collects in the cabinet, it will flow towards the back and not the front.