I am going to buy my first smoker in a few weeks. I have been reading posts on this forum and had a few questions. First off, I was looking at a pellet bbq before I found this site. Reading the posts, I have changed my mind and I am going to get a DB. The DB is cheaper then the bbq and being able to come to this site and ask for advice was the changing point for me.
The first question I have is what is a PID?
The second is I have read that cold smoking is easier with the ob. Why is that and do you have to do something with the smoker to cold smoke? I live in MT and was talking to the guy selling the bradley smokers and he was saying that with the weather outside the db is a better choice for temp control. I don't know if that is true or he was just trying to sell the more expensive smoker. I am sure that I will have more ? later. Thanks for any comments and I am hoping to be able to post my results soon!
Welcome to the forum!
Good choice on going with Bradley, regardless of which one. They are all good. I personally favor the original in stainless. The Bradley already takes most of the work out of smoking so I do not want the electronic one. A PID is simply a method of having a more perfect box temperature control, which is not really needed, but some folks like to play with electronic gadgets. A more "set it and forget it" type of environment. I personally like to retain a little responsibility on how the smoke is going and it gives me an excuse to not do anything else other than quinching my thirst while I'm cooking. The original is also cheaper.
Dont know what happened to my long babbling response earlier but the bottom line is the DBS has greater temperature fluctuation than the OBS. The fluctuations DO NOT get in the way of great smoked food.
The DBS is easier to set temperatures on than the OBS but the OBS is real easy to learn to dial in and set up with just a couple of tweaks of the slider.
The PID control scheme is a sure way to make tower temps more accurate in either the DBS or the OBS. Members here can help you set one up when you are ready. NOT necessary to start with... and you can buy the OBS and pocket the difference until your ready.
The DBS is a disappointment in terms of NOT being digital in control but has pretty lights and a cool flame to look at. I have discovered cigars and adult beverages that multiply these lights. Cool, like the 60's.
The thing about Bradely that is a huge plus up is the ability to cold smoke. The OBS is able to be used to cold smoke without modification. The DBS requires a longer cable to for the temperature sense line to seperate the Smoke Generator from the Tower far enough to cold smoke. The link below shows the P/Ns for the longer cord and Gizmos cold smoke set up on a 6R DBS. Same set up is used for OBS and DBS except you gotta make the cord for the DBS.
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=4313.0
I have a DBS. If I had to do it again I dont know what I would buy EXCEPT it would be a Bradley. The forum plus Bradley Customer Service is great. They dont screw around with games - they really back the units. But you wont know that until you need it.
Get it done and smoke something... let us know how it goes ;D ;D ;D
Hi and welcome here sagemt, WCK has covered everything, so you just have to decide, i think you'll be happy with whatever you choose as long as it's a Bradley ;)
Btw there's also a propane version available. (http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s62/Gitster59/bs.gif)......LilSmoker(http://www.emotipad.com/newemoticons/Tip-Hat.gif)
Whatever you choose will make you happy. Bradley makes an amazing product and the quality is evident. Hope you continue to visit the forum.
Do budget a therometer that measures Meat Internal Temps AND the tower temperature. Maverick ET 73 is a popular model. Niether the DBS or OBS have Tower Temp Display that should be relied upon for accuracy. ;)
The internal meat temp is necessary because there are many variables that effect time and consistency smoke to smoke is all about the meat IT. ;D
Thanks for the advice and comments. Not sure what way I am going to go, but I know it will be a Bradley. This forum has made up my mind on that. Not only can you get a recipe book for the bradley, but you can find tried and true smoking on this forum. Also, things that did not work for some.
One other thing I would like to know, how about smoking a whole turkey? I think I will get the 4 rack smoker. What temp and what type of wood should I use?
I have yet to do a full turkey but here are some of the pointers I have read here and also here is a link to some of the threads here on smoking turkeys.
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=4116.0
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=4343.0
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=2403.0
You may want to brine the turkey first to acheive the most moist bird you'll ever have.
Make sure the skin of the turkey is dry before putting it in the smoker (allow to sit in the refrigerator to air dry). Dry skin will absorb smoke better and wet skin can give a funny taste when smoked.
To finish the bird's skin you may want to use a high temperature to brown the skin. Brining and smoking typically ruin the skin in terms of getting a nice crisp editable skin. You can also finish the bird off in an oven after the smoking.
You should cook the turkey to a temperature of 160 deg as measure in the thigh area.
Just another tip. Do not brine a turkey that is self-basting or has already been injected with a flavoring solution. It has already been brined. If you are not going to finish it off in the oven, or gas grill; if you only going to bring it up to 160°F, make sure that you measure in the correct spot. I bring mine to 163°F-165°F. I've found that when you take the turkey out of the smoker, it will continue to cook, but the maximum increase of internal temperature I ever got was 5°; often it was less.
What is a PID? I'm also looking to by my first smoker and have been bouncing back and forth from the DBS or the Orig BS. I want to cold smoke salmon, amongst other things. Also, is it better to get the 76 cu in model or the 106 cu in model?
John
Quote from: snowbound on April 24, 2007, 09:38:49 AM
What is a PID? I'm also looking to by my first smoker and have been bouncing back and forth from the DBS or the Orig BS. I want to cold smoke salmon, amongst other things. Also, is it better to get the 76 cu in model or the 106 cu in model?
John
A PID is an electronic controller used to monitor and control the temps in the smoker. I'm working on my first setup now, since i bought the DBS and temps in the digital smoker are a bit troublesome, especially if you're in cold weather or windy conditions. Look around these forums and you'll find pleanty of info on them, and some photos and wiring diagrams as well.
Quote from: Tramp on April 24, 2007, 10:55:25 AM
Quote from: snowbound on April 24, 2007, 09:38:49 AM
What is a PID? I'm also looking to by my first smoker and have been bouncing back and forth from the DBS or the Orig BS. I want to cold smoke salmon, amongst other things. Also, is it better to get the 76 cu in model or the 106 cu in model?
John
A PID is an electronic controller used to monitor and control the temps in the smoker. I'm working on my first setup now, since i bought the DBS and temps in the digital smoker are a bit troublesome, especially if you're in cold weather or windy conditions. Look around these forums and you'll find pleanty of info on them, and some photos and wiring diagrams as well.
I havent built one yet, but when I do I will be referring to this link (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=315) extensively... I did a lot of lookng and this is by far the best i could find.
Welcome to the forum snowbound! Just my 2 cents - if you are going to set up a PID, why not go the cheaper route and get the original? Unless you want the 6 rack for extra capicity. Without modification with a PID, you may be better off with the original for cold smoking. I do not know for sure since I do not have the digital. I suspect you will be happy with either. IMO the third best purchase you could make is a Maverick temp probe, second only to the BS and Iceman's sauce.
Hi and welcome snowbound, i agree with Wildcat, if you're gonna get a PID, might make more sense to get the original?
You can use the original and digitals for cold smoking, however with the digital you will need to buy the extended sensor lead to allow the generator and cabinet to be seperated.
The digital comes in 4 or 6 rack, the original only comes in 4 rack ;)
LilSmoker(http://www.emotipad.com/newemoticons/Tip-Hat.gif)
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the info. I'm going with the original, but I'm still confused about a PID. I understand it's some sort of temperature control device, but can anyone explain what it is in more detail, what it does, how it does it...and the most important question, where do I get one?
Thx,
john
I don't have mine put together yet, but ya gotta pretty much put a few things together to make it work, and the 2 main components are available from Auber Instruments and linked from the directions on the recipe site (http://www.susanminor.org (http://www.susanminor.org)).
I don't really know how it works or why it works, but even though I've had no problems with my Original Bradley, I'm building the PID so I can set my temp to a number instead of a position of a sliding switch, taking into account the ambient temp and other conditions.
I like numbers, and I'm still money ahead from the digital. Other people don't mind the fine tuning and learning as they go.
snowbound,
Yeah, the Porter Indicating Device is used to find your beer. Not sure what this other nonsense is... 8)
The PID is a Proportional, Integral, Derivative controller. It controls something (like power to your heating element) based upon the difference between your setpoint temperature and measured temperature (error term). The Proportional term amplifies this error term and applies the appropriate correction (more or less power). For technical reason, proportional control alone will not drive your error term to zero. In this case, the use of integration (adding successive error terms over time), will drive your error to zero. The derivative term is used to anticipate what to do when the setpoint changes significantly.
This control scheme is different than your house thermostat. You set the temp and the furnance is either on or off. There is a deadband that varies around your setpoint (one to two degrees). This works well, since your house is a large thermal mass and the furnance provides modest input into the system. Compared to this, the PID is more like a light dimmer, smoothly varying the power.
For many people, the use of the rheostat on the BS is good enough. However, you have stumbled onto a board of zealots of many flavors, and some of them are hot wiring their Bradleys. As noted by Tiny Tim, there are commercial PID controllers that people have purchased and put into appropriate enclosures. A search will show several implementations. I personally designed my own from scratch, which allowed me to avoid several weeks of "Honey DOs". An added benefit is that you can claim that you need to check the smoker often to adjust the temperature, when in fact you are visiting the adult beverage refrigerator in your garage.
Whew! Now I need a drink......
Arcs_n_Sparks
Yep, Arcs is at it again,
Once again a fine explaination Arcs, and a fine example of after absorbing that much technical information the Porter Indicating Device is definately needed.
Hello. I am also looking to buy my first smoker. I've read many of the posts, but still cannot decide. Can anyone tell me what functionality the DBS provides that the OBS does not? I understand that you can cold smoke with the OBS as is, but the DBS requires mods to cold smoke. Can someone explain why?
Does the DBS provide more flexibility with respect to programming the smoke time versus cook time? If you want to have 2 hours of smoke time followed by 4 hours of additional cook time, how would you go about doing it with the two different models? Can each of the models be set up to do this and then be left alone for 6 hours?
Thanks for your help!
Welcome to the forum JET! I have the original in the stainless steel version. I am completely happy with it as it was purchased. Others should chime in on the digital and with luck, someone who has both. I purchased the original for 3 reasons (1) did not need the extra space that a 6 rack provides, (2) less electronics therefore less chance of something not working right, and (3) price. From the posts I have read I am happy with my choice. Both versions are great units from what I have heard and if you like electronic controls, both can be modified to work in a similiar fashion. Both models can be set up with a smoke time, the original is done simply by putting in the right amount of pucks. Each puck burns for about 20 minutes. I recommend that when you purchase you should buy a Maverick temp probe as well. It will give you a box and meat temp reading. The gauges on both versions of the Bradley is NOT accurate, primarily due to the location within the box. Let us know what you decide.
Only thing I can help ya on is how to do a 2hr smoke + 4hr cook with the original...load 6 biscuits plus something (3 aluminum pucks, 2 aluminum and another wood, or just reach in with a gloved hand) to push the 6th off the burner, and let it be for another 4 hours.
The rheostat on the original takes a little getting used to in order to get the temp you want, but the digital lets you set to a number for the temp. I don't have the digital, so I don't know how close it stays to your set temp.
Quick answer to the cold smoke on a Digital - The ONLY mod you need is a longer sense cord, which the parts are readily available from Radio Shack or online.
As far as control, TT has already stated the digital vs. slider part. Of course you can build a digital temperature control (PID) for the original (or the digitial) if you want that or want more precise temperatures (less temperature fluctuations). Unless you build the PIDs with the food temperature sensor feedbacks, you will need to keep an eye on the internal temperature of the food on either box. No two pieces of meat will cook at the same same rate so therefore times are always a rough estimate and internal temperature is the only real guide. With that in mind, setting a time for the oven to shut off is not much of an advantage. If your cook time is over 9 hours and 40 minutes, the digital control will have to be reset sometime during the cook as that is the maximum set time available.
Check out the comments from this thread:
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=5163.msg47807#msg47807 (http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=5163.msg47807#msg47807)
Decision made - I ordered a SS OBS this weekend! Can't wait for the first smoke! Hopefully, it'll arrive prior to the weekend...
Quote from: JET on May 07, 2007, 09:56:18 AM
Decision made - I ordered a SS OBS this weekend! Can't wait for the first smoke! Hopefully, it'll arrive prior to the weekend...
Congrats JET; keep us posted and I hope you get to use it this weekend so you can practice up for the holiday. Have fun ;D