Good evening everybody,
Does anyone know what the maximum wall thickness the BSM can be installed on. I am building a smoker out of a industrial fridge 3" thick walls.
Do you thick it will fit on this?
Ranman
I would think that would be okay. I would think one would only worry if the thickness were thicker than the ramp on which the bisqueetes travel. I believe (without looking at it) that it's greater than 3 inches. Good luck with the project.
SD
Ran man,
welcome to the forum.. I do not have that information.. you can contact bradley and ask them directly .. though 3 inche wall thickness should not be a problem... and on another note be sure you add a vent on the top for ventalation...
here is a link to do your heater calculations and you may want to consider a PID controller as well
http://www.heatershop.com/btu_calculator.htm
PID Controller ( tempture controller )
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5
hope this helps with your project
Thanks for the info guys.
I have PID and am going to use 2 - 3500 watt elements that I have lying around.
The inside dimensions are 22" x 28" x 60". It has high density urethane foam insulation.
I am going to put in a stirring fan for even temp.
I built a smoke daddy generator for it and during a bench test I am not happy with the output and the fiddling around you need to do to get it running good before every smoke. That is why I am looking at the Bradley, I think it is exactly what i need.
Hi Ranman and welcome to the forum
If I remember correctly I think the adaptor plate only adjusts to 2.5 inches. I would give Bradley a call to make sure. The other thing is there may be a possibility that the adaptor could be modified slightly as well.
Mike
I think I will try modify the bracket for the side if not the door is only 1 3/4" so it could go there but it will stick out a ways.
Mr. Walleye you have a nice looking unit and if you don't mind I plan on using your draft system as this unit is going in my shop as well.
Ranman
Ran, sounds like you have a great start and let us know how it turns out
thanks
Quote from: ranman on November 16, 2008, 06:38:07 PM
I think I will try modify the bracket for the side if not the door is only 1 3/4" so it could go there but it will stick out a ways.
Mr. Walleye you have a nice looking unit and if you don't mind I plan on using your draft system as this unit is going in my shop as well.
Ranman
Thanks for the compliment Ranman.
I think a guy should be able to find a way to get another 1/2 inch out of the bracket. I would still give Bradley a call and see what their thoughts are as well.
Keep us posted on your project.
Mike
If you do not need the extra heat of the smoke generator, you could always pipe in the smoke like in a cold smoke set-up.
Thanks guys, I contacted Bradley and this is a cut and paste of their response.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Thank you for your email.
Our Adaptor works best for about 2 ½ inches thickness. I asked my technician what you can do and he suggested to just screw the adaptor from the outside directly to the wall so you do not have to use the inside collar to brace the adaptor.
I hope this makes sense. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us. Have a great day!
Katie Husband
Bradley Technologies Canada, Inc.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
This seems to make sense to me but can anyone who has verify this should work or should I just plan on tig welding another 1" on the adapter and call it day.
Thank You
Randy
Randy
I don't see why this won't work. The only thing I would add to it is I would use some high temp silicone around it on the inside, so that there is no chance of the smoke seeping into the cabinet walls.
Mike
Ranman, here is some pics of my setup. I have walls just over 1¾", and after mounting the plate this is how much sticks into the box. To show you what Bradley tech meant, you can see with the collar on, it will only give another ½" of room before the hole is covered. Sounds like they are saying to ditch the collar and just reinforce the mounting plate (which I did as well, those screws you see replace the small screws Bradly uses to mount the little brass looking pegs the generator hangs on. This made is really sturdy. I think after you mount the plate and put some extra hardware thru the whole works, you will have enough of the generator sticking into the box. Like Mr. Walleye said, after cutting your hole line it with something or silicone the heck out of it to seal it.
(http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp312/patience476/PB240017.jpg)w/o collar(http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp312/patience476/PB240018.jpg)w/collar
P.S. 7000 Watts is going to make that thing a kiln! I have 4200Watts and had to put seperate latches on the top and bottom of my doors because they both bowed out after my test run hit 350 deg. I know you won't be smoking at those temps, but if the SSR failed in the closed position or you programmed your PID with a wrong number, things will get a little warm! Good luck to you on your project!
Thanks for the pictures and info. It helps out alot to actually see a close up of the parts. I now know I can make this work.
Thanks again
Randy
I went through the back wall no problem. I did however cut the beveled end of the collar off and turned it around so it stuck into the wall. I used 2500 watt elements and it gets to over 300F easy.
Click on the pictures to enlarge.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/olepop/th_DCP_1075.jpg) (http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/olepop/DCP_1075.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/olepop/th_DCP_1074.jpg) (http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/olepop/DCP_1074.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/olepop/th_DCP_1070.jpg) (http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/olepop/DCP_1070.jpg)
Iceman, from your pics I cannot tell for sure, but do you have a latch on the top (and possibly bottom) of your doors? I also have a two door cabinet with a factory latch in the middle, but at about 250 degress the darned doors started to bow out a bit and require some help at top and bottom. Nice unit(s).
Yeppers there is a latch top and bottom for that very reason. The doors just don't like the higher heat and warp any time above 200F.