I just finished moding my OBS with the dual element upgrade. I switched all wiring to use an on off switch just like the one on the smoke generator. When I plug my cabinet into the wall outlet both elements turn on. As soon as I plug in the pid everything shuts down. Do I need to wire the switch differently?
Forgot to mention its the Auber plug and play pid
Is the PID set to a temp on one of the program cycles? There will not be any power to the PID heater element outlet until a program step has a set cabinet temp...
I set the first program for 225 and 3.5hrs. , is there something I'm missing?
Checked the fuse on the PID and it still looks good.
If the fuse was bad you would not get a display on the PID...
So are you saying that the PID shuts down(no display) when you plug in the heating element cord into the PID heater outlet plug? Are you getting a red led light on the PID?
The PID is on and is functional. Actually I noticed when I plug the cabinet into the PID the red switch is not lit up, but when I plug it into the wall it lights up. Could it be an internal problem with the PID?
Just one question to be REALLY SURE, Are both probes (meat and smoker probe) plugged in? I'M asking because when you set your operations if you only have the smoker probe plugged and have one operation set to F instead of T, the smoker won't power on. It hapend to me before.
Plug the PID into the power outlet and turn it on. You should get numbers in the display or "-H-" in the display if the probes are not installed. If this is the case, then your PID is working. now look at your pid settings, do you have C1 set to a temp? Do you have T1 set to sosmething other than zero? If so then you PID is operating okay.
make sure your plugs are all plugged in. Is your temp controller slide all the way to the right?
To eliminate that it may be a wiring problem with the switch. Set the temperature control on the cabinet all the way to the left. Plug the cabinet in to a wall socket, then turn the switch off. If the second element still works, there is something wrong with the wiring.
As far as the temperature control on the box, I completely replaced it with an on off switch. Plug in the box only and the switch lights up and elements come on. When I plug the box into the PID the elements turn off and the light on the switch goes out.
My pid reads C01 225, E01 T, T01 3.5. All other stages I have set to 0
Quote from: Toker on July 29, 2011, 08:06:05 PM
Just one question to be REALLY SURE, Are both probes (meat and smoker probe) plugged in? I'M asking because when you set your operations if you only have the smoker probe plugged and have one operation set to F instead of T, the smoker won't power on. It hapend to me before.
WOW!! I just figured it out. It turns out I need both probes plugged in even if the program is set for time!! Thanks so much everyone for your help, I can't believe this was my problem!
YES!!! I still know how to operate the pid :D Biginer mistake but you understood. Glad you made it like i said. Next time, if you only need the smoker probe, just set ALL 6 OPERATIONS EVEN THOSE YOU DON'T NEED TO T and NOT F. When you received your PID, there is at leat one operation set to F I lost an afternoon cause of it too last year this is why i know it now. Have a good day.
Frank
Same topic, but different question. Didn't see the need for a new thread.
I'm ready to do the additional elemtn mod on my OBS. The posted PDFs are a) Additional Element for DBS and b) Addional element for OBS with ON/OFF switch. I don't see the need for the On/Off Swicth (though I did buy one. Just looks like the addional time, care, and craftsmanship involved don't bring a lot of value (I know that for many of you its QED).
Sooo, to power my 2nd element would I just splice in the addional Hot and Neutral wires at the plug in the back and run the other ends through the exisiting holes to the 2nd element? (Hope that made sense). Just like pic #3 and diagram in Mikes DBS how to?
(http://www.susanminor.org/users/Hab/Misc_Files/Additional_Element/additional_element_wire_dia.jpg)
Would this overload the slider?
Quote from: TonyL222 on August 09, 2011, 09:31:41 AMSooo, to power my 2nd element would I just splice in the addional Hot and Neutral wires at the plug in the back and run the other ends through the exisiting holes to the 2nd element?
No need to run the wires for the second element beyond the cooking chamber. When I added a second element to mine I just cut two short 3-4" pieces of high temp wire and ran each end to the first element. Just one wire on each side of the element "bank" goes through the holes. It works fine this way.
I do have a PID I installed in my SG box to control the temps. Some say that the original slider control might not be able to handle the additional load of 1000W worth of elements. I don't recommend running two elements with the slider temp control.
Wow!!! That's simple and elegant THANKS!!!! Now I'm off to Home Depot to get some ring connectors (which wasn't in the parts list for either of the onli documents).
Some lessons learned:
1) Home Depot did not have high temp stuff. Although it stated so, their high temp was in the 200 range. So make sure you check.
2) While the switch is unecessary, it came in handy for me. First was when the PID went down. I was able to use the second element to get up to temp, switch it off and use just the original element for cooking.
3) Another time I blew the sensor fuse which prevented the original element and temp slider from working. I was able to use the second element manually.
My experience is that the small cost and time required for the switch, it was worth installing it.
Thanks GR. I did go the HD and noticed their Ring connectors were not high temp. Went to the applicance store where I bought the wire and got HT rings. I'm certain that you are much "handier" than me, so the switch isn't a big deal for you. MAJOR operation for me. Maybe later (since I have it).
I still need to notch the ceramic plates so the wire wll fit through. Other than that, this was quite easy. No need to even remove the back panel.
Quote from: TedEbear on August 09, 2011, 09:54:10 AM
... Some say that the original slider control might not be able to handle the additional load of 1000W worth of elements. I don't recommend running two elements with the slider temp control.
Oh SNAP!!! Overlooked this little caution. I assumed your only mod to the OBS was the additional element in parallel. I did run a test with the two elements last night. Ran it up to 260 (took maybe 15 mins with no load), opened the door to let heat out, then closed to see how it recovered. All this with both elements on the slider. No apparent issues in that short 20 min span. Was that a long enough or valid test of two elements on the slider? Has anyone else been running with two elements on the slider?
I do still have the rocker switch (Bradley replacement) which I bought from Yard & Pool.
Quote from: TonyL222 on August 10, 2011, 07:26:05 AM
Quote from: TedEbear on August 09, 2011, 09:54:10 AM
... Some say that the original slider control might not be able to handle the additional load of 1000W worth of elements. I don't recommend running two elements with the slider temp control.
Oh SNAP!!! Overlooked this little caution. I assumed your only mod to the OBS was the additional element in parallel. I did run a test with the two elements last night. Ran it up to 260 (took maybe 15 mins with no load), opened the door to let heat out, then closed to see how it recovered. All this with both elements on the slider. No apparent issues in that short 20 min span. Was that a long enough or valid test of two elements on the slider? Has anyone else been running with two elements on the slider?
I do still have the rocker switch (Bradley replacement) which I bought from Yard & Pool.
I have the 900w finned element mod and a Auber PID. I was running that element on the slider for a while until I just recently modified my faceplate(I decided to remove the slider). I had over 60 hours of use on the slider with the 900w element and did not experience any problems. But I always kept it all the way up on high(I have a PID) and it is 100w short of what your load will be. I did notice some discoloration from heat on the PCB at the back of where the heatsink is located. I do not know if this is normal or was caused by the higher wattage element. It does not look burned though. You can see it in the second picture below...
(http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG1182.jpg) (http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG1183.jpg)
Quote from: TonyL222 on August 09, 2011, 10:24:45 AM
Wow!!! That's simple and elegant THANKS!!!! Now I'm off to Home Depot to get some ring connectors (which wasn't in the parts list for either of the onli documents).
If you daisy chain the elements like TeddyBear suggested; it's advisable to disconnect the temperature controller and wire it so it by passes it. It doesn't take much effort to do that.
Good advice and easy to do. DONE!
As a recap, installed the 2nd element using the TedEBear method. Took the slider our of the loop per Hab's recommendation (cut and spliced together)..
Instead of autotune on the PID, I just re-programmed the P factor to 140 and left I and D the same per Auber recommendation.
Smoked a 7lbs bone in turkey breast this Saturday for a test. I didn't write down temps and times. But to my recollection, the OBS went heated up from mid 80's ambient to 260 in less than 20 minutes - this with the water bowl filled with room temp water.
Cook temp was 220. I opened the door to turn the breast, empty and refill bowl. Temp dropped to around 160, and recovered back to 220 in less than 10 mins.
Imma gonna do two butts for a weekend party and I'll be more diligent about recording - but so far I'm VERY please with results.
I should note that I'm using one pre "recall" element and one post (with a third in reserve). The older element has been through several prolonged smokes, unlike the first two I have which failed quickly.
You will love it with the second element. If you start with hot water in the water bowl the temp will rise even faster in the beginning.