Just Curious??? When you adding a second element. Do you just ponytail the existing wires by just adding a few inches of wire and connections and use the existing slide control? Does anyone have pics?
Or when adding a 900w element do you just use the existing connections? Do you have to do a fan?
I have the 900w element mod. I used the existing wires and just extended their length. For the first 30 hours of use I did not have a convection fan and did not have any issues. I have a PID and do not know how well it will work with a DBS.
(http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0593.jpg) (http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0697.jpg)
And my convection fan mod...
(http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0800.jpg) (http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0798.jpg) (http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0799.jpg) (http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0801.jpg)
Quote from: cajunboudreaux on September 16, 2011, 11:07:14 AM
Just Curious??? When you adding a second element. Do you just ponytail the existing wires by just adding a few inches of wire and connections and use the existing slide control? Does anyone have pics?
Or when adding a 900w element do you just use the existing connections? Do you have to do a fan?
One of the smokers I have is dual-ed with a pigtail from one element to the other.
If that is a way you want to go, PM me and I'll send you the info.
BUT!!!!!!!! Any time you add another element or go with a 900 watt element
IT IS recommended or necessary that you control the smoker with a PID!
Wow! Thanks, That looks to cool. I said ponytail and meant pigtail. lol. ooops
Quote from: cajunboudreaux on September 16, 2011, 11:07:14 AM
Just Curious??? When you adding a second element. Do you just ponytail the existing wires by just adding a few inches of wire and connections and use the existing slide control? Does anyone have pics?
Or when adding a 900w element do you just use the existing connections? Do you have to do a fan?
In my area they call it "Daisy chaining". If you have the OBS I don't feel it is a good idea because the full load is going through the temperature control. Just a reminder; you shouldn't do this mod without a third party temperature control device like a PID, or one of the BBQ Guru controller with a Raptor.
Here are step by step instructions on the recipe site for the dual element:
Additional Element for DBS (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?572-Additional-Heating-Element-Modification&p=910#post910)
Additional Element for OBS with Optional Switch (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?578-Additional-Heating-Element-for-OBS-with-On-Off-Control&p=917#post917)
I did the 900W mod and love it. I did rewire the whole cabinet with 14GA high temp wire mostly for fun. :) I also used 2 1/2 inch bolts instead of 1 1/2 inch bolts so that the element wouldn't sit directly on the back wall. I guess I was hoping that if some drippings happened to roll down the back wall that this might help prevent a fire.
I'm glad to see I wasn't the only one that left the original heat reflector in with the 900W mod. Thanks muebe!
Quote from: cajunboudreaux on September 16, 2011, 11:07:14 AM
Just Curious??? When you adding a second element. Do you just ponytail the existing wires by just adding a few inches of wire and connections and use the existing slide control? Does anyone have pics?
Or when adding a 900w element do you just use the existing connections? Do you have to do a fan?
Yes and no. I have the dual element mod on my OBS. Just run a short 3-4 inch length of high temp wire from each end of the first element to each end of the second element.
Do not use the slide temp control for the new 1000W bank of heating elements. An Auberins PID controller that you can install in the smoke generator box is less than $45 plus a few additional parts (K-type TC, SSR, wire, nuts and bolts).
No fan needed.
Cool Thanks, I believe that is what i want to do.
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on September 16, 2011, 01:21:54 PM
If you have the OBS I don't feel it is a good idea because the full load is going through the temperature control. Just a reminder; you shouldn't do this mod without a third party temperature control device like a PID, or one of the BBQ Guru controller with a Raptor.
That one is easy to address (got the idea from you). Just remove the faceplate, remove the spade connectors from both sides of the slider and also the light. Cut off the spade connectors, strip, and twist all 3 wires together. I fastend with a ceramic wire nut. As stated, you MUST have a PID or other temperature controller after this mod.
Are you doing this just to un-hook the slider??
Yes - to take the slider out of the loop.
900 Watt finned or 2 500Watt Elements??? Undecided as of yet for me. One thing for sure is I probably won't be adding a fan due to losing rack space. Anyone do the fan mod and not lose any rack space. Pics?
Quote from: RFT on September 24, 2011, 07:09:26 PM
900 Watt finned or 2 500Watt Elements??? Undecided as of yet for me. One thing for sure is I probably won't be adding a fan due to losing rack space. Anyone do the fan mod and not lose any rack space. Pics?
It is not shown in that picture but I still have 4 usable racks. I relocated the two rails to a different spot. I personally have never used the top rack rail before doing this mod so I did not mind the relocation. The fan gives me very even cabinet temps(no rotating) and also turned my OBS into a full dehydrator.
There are others with much smaller fans that did not lose any rack space...
8) Thanks!
Quote from: TonyL222 on September 20, 2011, 10:20:01 PM
Yes - to take the slider out of the loop.
Here's what I did to bypass the slider control when I added a PID controller in the SG box. The two loose wires go to the little red LED next to the slider. Although that light wasn't needed to make it work it wasn't doing anything else and I sometimes like to watch and see how the PID controller cycles the power on and off to maintain the temp.
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b355/roadijeff/Miscellaneous/P9040008.jpg)
Fan with no loss of racks.
(http://tapatalk.com/mu/63872c0e-d73a-717d.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.com/mu/63872c0e-d748-881c.jpg)
SamuelG
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RTF;
With the fan modification that SG mentions there is no loss of space, and you don't have to rearrange the racks. The only thing you may want to consider is reinforcing the back of the smoker.
Here is a link to a fan modification:
Circulation Fan (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?186-Fan)
Thanks Hab.
I like the idea of the single 900 watt finned element. Where do you get that component?
Quote from: Kitchen Commander on October 02, 2011, 02:33:04 PM
I like the idea of the single 900 watt finned element. Where do you get that component?
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TEMPCO-SS-Heater-2XEF3?Pid=search
Thank you muebe. I think I'll go that route. I have a corporate account with Grainger, so I get it at an even better price than on the website.
could we get some close up pics of the Element brackets and how they are mounted?
Quote from: RFT on October 04, 2011, 09:48:44 PM
could we get some close up pics of the Element brackets and how they are mounted?
(http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0997.jpg) (http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0999.jpg) (http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG0998.jpg) (http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG1000.jpg)
Thank you very much sir.
muebe, am i correct in my thinking that the only reason you left the original heat reflector is because of mounting purposes with your L brackets? Also, how hot do you find the back of your unit getting with the fins that close to the back? How much space is between the wall and the fins? I enjoy seeing all these pics and ideas you guys have tried. Thanks for all your time in reposting this information. Looking forward to suppin up my future unit..
TedEbear, when bypassing the slider. Does the light still work if you keep it plugged in? Just wondering if there is a way to keep the light operational without adding more switches.
is there any particular size fan to get?
Quote from: cajunboudreaux on October 05, 2011, 09:06:45 PM
muebe, am i correct in my thinking that the only reason you left the original heat reflector is because of mounting purposes with your L brackets? Also, how hot do you find the back of your unit getting with the fins that close to the back? How much space is between the wall and the fins? I enjoy seeing all these pics and ideas you guys have tried. Thanks for all your time in reposting this information. Looking forward to suppin up my future unit..
TedEbear, when bypassing the slider. Does the light still work if you keep it plugged in? Just wondering if there is a way to keep the light operational without adding more switches.
is there any particular size fan to get?
Don't know how hot the back get's because my OBS cabinet is in a suncast shed. The finned element is about two inches from the back wall of the cabinet.
And yes you can still use the indicator light by keeping it wired to the existing wiring. I have the indicator light and a on/off switch when I fabricated a metal front panel...
(http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx169/muebe/IMAG1097.jpg)
That looks nice... Thanks for the info.. Guess it is time to get busy.
Yep. Me too. Just ordered the 900w element yesterday. Fabricating a new under door cover(slider switch) and putting on new door this weekend maybe even a big hinge to re enforce stock hinges. Shame to drill holes in a new door though.
I am pretty lucky to have a few Graingers and harbor freights around me. Easy to pick things up. Looking forward to some goodies coming in i ordered as well. I finally feel comfortable making mods without tearing to much up.
Be sure to take pics of your new front cover.. Good luck.
Quote from: cajunboudreaux on October 06, 2011, 09:48:23 AM
Be sure to take pics of your new front cover.. Good luck.
Will do.
I love it! :D You guys are like me. We like to make things better and more powerful. Maybe we watched to many episodes of Tim The Tool Man Taylor. More power!!! Auuugghhh!!! Auugghhh!!! Auuughhhhh!!!
You should see my riding mover with the 426 hemi. Time to mow the lawn? 45 seconds. Just kidding, it's only got a little 6 hp honda motor and I can't even ride it. ::)
I am just making the smoker "bullet proof" My lower cover is going to be way overkill. Using 2" square stainless tubing. They didn't have any 2" aluminum remnents laying around which actually would have been perfect.
Quote from: cajunboudreaux on October 05, 2011, 09:06:45 PMTedEbear, when bypassing the slider. Does the light still work if you keep it plugged in? Just wondering if there is a way to keep the light operational without adding more switches.
Yes, just plug the two loose wires in the pic I posted into the LED and it will turn on/off whenever the PID cycles the power, the same way the original slider control did.
Quote from: TonyL222 on September 20, 2011, 04:52:52 PM
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on September 16, 2011, 01:21:54 PM
If you have the OBS I don't feel it is a good idea because the full load is going through the temperature control. Just a reminder; you shouldn't do this mod without a third party temperature control device like a PID, or one of the BBQ Guru controller with a Raptor.
That one is easy to address (got the idea from you). Just remove the faceplate, remove the spade connectors from both sides of the slider and also the light. Cut off the spade connectors, strip, and twist all 3 wires together. I fastend with a ceramic wire nut. As stated, you MUST have a PID or other temperature controller after this mod.
I know this is a old post but I am adding 900 watt element. I have a small fan and auber PID and just wondering what is the third wire you refer to:
"Cut off the spade connectors, strip, and twist all 3 wires together" when removing wire from slider is there not only two wires? One on each side that are joined together? I plan on leaving LED connected which looks like it has two wires.
Sorry before I tear into this I want to make sure I understand.
Hi Dogwood;
I have an older OBS, and when I wrote that I was not aware that Bradley had change their wiring code. The wires I am referring to are to the temperature control device, behind the face plate. Remove the faceplate to get to that wiring.
Looking at the photo below you see three white wires, yours my be of different colors, but you should definitely have a red wire - leave the red wire alone. The two white wires that run off the screen need to be attached, those complete the circuit to the element. The short white wire that runs to the temperature light completes the circuit for that light to work. You need to unplug the wires from the circuit board and splice them together. If you can find a small metal tab that will fit inside the spade connector, so use that to plug the two connectors together, if not cutting the connectors off, striping the end and fastening with a wire nut works also. I'm not sure why I said to use a ceramic nut, a plastic nut works fine.
(http://www.susanminor.org/users/Hab/Misc_Files/Additional_Element/_1OBS_TempCrtl_Wiring.jpg)
Thank you very much for clarification.
Darren
Instead of starting a new posting, hopefully I can get some ideas right here.
Yesterday I started my attempt to add a the second heating element to my "old" OBS. I decided to follow the instructions for the on/off switch at the SM site. Finished it up today, plugged it in, and blew the breaker. Upon checking the resistance im getting 0, so something is shorted.
While following the instructions I noticed that the color of my original wires were the exact opposite of what was posted (According to the post the original blue was hot, which came from the sensor up top, and the white was neutral coming from the bottom of the unit) I wired it up according to the instructions, only swapping the colors (1 extra new wire connected to my white wire, the hot, and 2 extra to the blue neutral.) Once again followed the instructions as to how to connect the switch, put everything back together and now I'm sitting here trying not to throw a wrench lol as I blow breakers.
The only problem I had during the install was when i went to disconnect the 2 female spades from the temperature circuit board, the entire connectors came off the board, leaving only the 2 small holes each. I re soldered the male parts to the board and connected everything back up when I was done. I can't imagine that fried the board and is causing the problem, but I'm not sure what else I could've done.
If anyone has any ideas I would love them, as this shouldn't be this complicated. :( For now I'm going to disassemble again and check the circuit board with the multimeter and double check the switch connections.
Thanks all for the help!
Quote from: dogwood on July 11, 2012, 08:51:19 AM
Quote from: TonyL222 on September 20, 2011, 04:52:52 PM
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on September 16, 2011, 01:21:54 PM
If you have the OBS I don't feel it is a good idea because the full load is going through the temperature control. Just a reminder; you shouldn't do this mod without a third party temperature control device like a PID, or one of the BBQ Guru controller with a Raptor.
That one is easy to address (got the idea from you). Just remove the faceplate, remove the spade connectors from both sides of the slider and also the light. Cut off the spade connectors, strip, and twist all 3 wires together. I fastend with a ceramic wire nut. As stated, you MUST have a PID or other temperature controller after this mod.
I know this is a old post but I am adding 900 watt element. I have a small fan and auber PID and just wondering what is the third wire you refer to: "Cut off the spade connectors, strip, and twist all 3 wires together" when removing wire from slider is there not only two wires? One on each side that are joined together? I plan on leaving LED connected which looks like it has two wires.
Sorry before I tear into this I want to make sure I understand.
On the OBS two wires connected to the ends of the slider and the third went to the light.
If you can post some pictures that will help. Bradley did change their wiring color code, and I have discussed this with others by PM's and they conclude Bradley is not following standard wiring code. So it is best to find a wire and follow it to it's source. Mine will be eight years old in a month, and it is wired and coded differently.
As TonyL222 pointed out the third wire going to the circuit board is for the LED. If you don't hook that to the other two wires the LED will not work. But I am not sure what you are doing. Why are you by passing the circuit board? When you are hooking up the switch, you should be only working with the wiring to the second element. None of the wiring to the original element should be in the same circuit as the switch. Also it is important that you hook the hot and neutral wires to the correct terminals of the switch. How are you male connectors marked on the switch? Is one terminal copper, or are they all the same type of metal, but numbered 1 through 3?
Sorry, I removed original element and added the 900w element. I just splice the two wires on the board together, in my case I just added a spade to one of the wires and it popped right into the other. No other changes required, front light still works and flashes in harmony with the PID controller :)
Note: this applies to the OBS.
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on July 16, 2012, 01:33:25 AM
If you can post some pictures that will help. Bradley did change their wiring color code, and I have discussed this with others by PM's and they conclude Bradley is not following standard wiring code. So it is best to find a wire and follow it to it's source. Mine will be eight years old in a month, and it is wired and coded differently.
Been busy with work but I'll get some pics up when I get a chance. Thanks for the reply.
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Original circuit board
(http://img.tapatalk.com/18b1fa2f-2f4e-fbc1.jpg)
Original back panel
(http://img.tapatalk.com/18b1fa2f-2fc4-0538.jpg)
In the process of taking it apart again to check the circuit board.
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Yay got it working. Had the neutral wires swapped on the switch. Changed those and I'm up smoking again. Now what to cook first...
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Good to hear you got it up and running. According to the wiring of the circuit board, you would need to connect the blue wire to the two white wires to by pass the circuit. As for the wiring to the plug, the colors Bradley now uses puzzles me. I had a long discussion with Mike (Mr. Walleye) and TestRocket, when writing up instructions on how to add the additional senor and in-line fuse (I still need to get that done).
I forgot to take a picture of the wiring to the plug, but you can see that the wire leading from the sensor to the plug in my picture is blue, in yours it is white.
(http://www.susanminor.org/users/Hab/Misc_Files/Additional_Element/_2Back_Wiring.jpg)
Yeah luckily I noticed that early on or it could've been worse. I still don't know how I switched those wires but I was watching the office so I'll blame that lol.
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Quote from: Narclax on July 19, 2012, 04:33:47 AM
Yeah luckily I noticed that early on or it could've been worse. I still don't know how I switched those wires but I was watching the office so I'll blame that lol.
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;D