BRADLEY SMOKER | "Taste the Great Outdoors"

New Members => Introduce Yourself => Topic started by: harleyr warrior on January 23, 2016, 12:35:27 AM

Title: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: harleyr warrior on January 23, 2016, 12:35:27 AM
Hello. New to this site.
I Bought a 4 rack Bradley  before Christmas . I have smoked a couple chickens, a turkey and a few other things. I have had great luck with help from the post on this site. I am not real happy with the  heat it generates  and I have read alot about different  mods. I have purchased  a 725 watt element  with connections on both ends from info on this site. Was wanting to remove original  element  and put new element  in. Not wanting a big change in heat performance but an improvement.  I understand  the change will not hurt circuitry. Is this correct?  Thanks in advace

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Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: tskeeter on January 23, 2016, 10:46:54 AM
You'd be OK with your 725 watt element.  Your element and the puck burner, combined, will draw just over 7 amps.  The fuse in your smoker is a 10 amp fuse.
Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: harleyr warrior on January 23, 2016, 11:34:18 AM
Quote from: tskeeter on January 23, 2016, 10:46:54 AM
You'd be OK with your 725 watt element.  Your element and the puck burner, combined, will draw just over 7 amps.  The fuse in your smoker is a 10 amp fuse.
Thanks, I'm in the process  of modifying. Got the old rod element out and can mount 725 watt new element fairly easy. Concerned  about the heat and the wiring. On the old rod element wiring was protected by porcelain  covers. Concerned about melting wires from heat generated.  Any suggestions  help will be appreciated. Feel I'm at a road block and not wanting to move on till I'm sure.

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Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: Salmonsmoker on January 23, 2016, 11:58:41 AM
I've been running a 900 watt element on the original wires for 4 years without problem. You're good to go.
Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: tskeeter on January 23, 2016, 02:08:42 PM
Quote from: harleyr warrior on January 23, 2016, 11:34:18 AM
Quote from: tskeeter on January 23, 2016, 10:46:54 AM
You'd be OK with your 725 watt element.  Your element and the puck burner, combined, will draw just over 7 amps.  The fuse in your smoker is a 10 amp fuse.
Thanks, I'm in the process  of modifying. Got the old rod element out and can mount 725 watt new element fairly easy. Concerned  about the heat and the wiring. On the old rod element wiring was protected by porcelain  covers. Concerned about melting wires from heat generated.  Any suggestions  help will be appreciated. Feel I'm at a road block and not wanting to move on till I'm sure.

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You're OK.  The smoker cabinet wiring is high temp appliance wire. 

I suspect the reason for the ceramic holders for the rod style heating element is that they non-conductive and that they are economical to produce in large quantities.

Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: harleyr warrior on January 23, 2016, 02:36:21 PM
Quote from: tskeeter on January 23, 2016, 02:08:42 PM
Quote from: harleyr warrior on January 23, 2016, 11:34:18 AM
Quote from: tskeeter on January 23, 2016, 10:46:54 AM
You'd be OK with your 725 watt element.  Your element and the puck burner, combined, will draw just over 7 amps.  The fuse in your smoker is a 10 amp fuse.
Thanks, I'm in the process  of modifying. Got the old rod element out and can mount 725 watt new element fairly easy. Concerned  about the heat and the wiring. On the old rod element wiring was protected by porcelain  covers. Concerned about melting wires from heat generated.  Any suggestions  help will be appreciated. Feel I'm at a road block and not wanting to move on till I'm sure.

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You're OK.  The smoker cabinet wiring is high temp appliance wire. 

I suspect the reason for the ceramic holders for the rod style heating element is that they non-conductive and that they are economical to produce in large quantities.
We'll  I made my mod took some pics to show. I took old rod element  out unscrewed  the ends and took the porcelain ends off. I set new finned element  in unit to see where wires would reach. Drilled holes through the back and ran bolts through back and through porcelain  ends I removed and mounted element.  Shield over old element  I grinder on both end between  legs to bolt on for clearance for wires. Here's some pics. Just got to see how it works. Thanks for all the help.(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160123/c35d65f99c58fb6708f40ffe8e5e9a77.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160123/64bb3bf2694e94c559d3df57a5eae571.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160123/b573ed7530921da0174f681788af2f8b.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160123/c16b7f58d2e17308d7a6baafe5e7f40a.jpg)

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Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: beefmann on January 23, 2016, 03:20:56 PM
great job on the heater mod
Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: harleyr warrior on January 23, 2016, 03:21:14 PM
Temp up to 250 fairly quick. Seems to be a better element than original element  that came with it.

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Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: Salmonsmoker on January 24, 2016, 09:16:08 AM
You might also consider putting a heat deflector shield between your new element and the back of the cabinet to keep the extra heat from "baking" the cabinet insulation in that area.
Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: harleyr warrior on January 24, 2016, 10:18:36 AM
Quote from: Salmonsmoker on January 24, 2016, 09:16:08 AM
You might also consider putting a heat deflector shield between your new element and the back of the cabinet to keep the extra heat from "baking" the cabinet insulation in that area.
Yes I agree. Original element  had worked on insulation  some. I read some where about  using another type of insulation back there that withstand heat better but I can't  remember  what it was. Also have been told use welder's blanket to wrap around  it. A deflecter yes ,but it think the element  mod was just a beginner step to iprovements I need to do. Would like to use for many years. I like my Bradley. I bought it because  of the puck feeder burner. I believe  they could improve on the cabinet. It looks exactly  like the small refrigerators we have at work. I know it's not supposed  to be a heat machine. I just want to be able to put food in smoker and smoke and slowly  cook it. My turkey I cooked in oven at 350 in a bag for 45 minutes  then smoker for 3. It was great. Two chickens 4 hours in smoker. Not done finished  in oven. That transferring  crap is for the birds. I haven't  owned my smoker very long but I can see already improvements  I would like to make. Nothing that hard or big or expensive. Just well thought out improvements. This site has been gold mine of information. I think everyone  that has responded  to me and everyone  that I have read thir post. I truely think I need to work on the insulation  factor at the point of heat source. I can't  remember  what it's called but it's on here some where. Thanks for all your help.

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Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: Habanero Smoker on January 24, 2016, 01:03:23 PM
Bradley does install extra insulation just behind the element. It looks like some type of thin mineral wool is installed under the first layer of insulation; but only directly behind the element. If the back doesn't get too hot that you can't hold your hand on it, you may not need to install the extra insulation.
Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: harleyr warrior on January 24, 2016, 02:54:11 PM
When I installed  new element  I removed the back of the unit and saw some heat damage  to insulation.  I does get to hot to touch. No after installing  new 725 watt element  smoking two chickens and two hours into it element  not working  preformed  great until then. Now not working at all. Have to finish in oven. Plugged unit directly  into receptacle, bypassing puck smoker still no heat. Any suggestions? All I know is let her cool and go back to modifications. Fuses? Where are they? By directly plugging it in didn't I bypass  fuses?

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Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: TedEbear on January 24, 2016, 03:58:07 PM
Quote from: harleyr warrior on January 24, 2016, 02:54:11 PMFuses? Where are they? By directly plugging it in didn't I bypass  fuses?


There's an inline fuse in the back of the cabinet.  What temp did you heat the cooking chamber to?  The Bradley doesn't like it much over 275*F.

(http://www.yardandpool.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/650x650/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/n/inlinefuse-bi-01.15.jpg)
Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: harleyr warrior on January 24, 2016, 04:08:23 PM
No ran about 250 put birds in dropped  to 200 l, 210 stayed there I know what the problem is. I checked element. It's still good. Got power  from puck heater. Wire burnt into going to element. I like a dummy  couldn't  get shield to direct the heat up so I was able to m ount  it turned down. Thought  it would  keep drippings off better less fire Hazzard.  Got wires hot melted them into. Not just got to find some heat resistant wire and conections. Make a heat shied for behind it and direct it upward posibly.  Finding wires and conections. Will be the hardest.

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Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: harleyr warrior on January 24, 2016, 07:15:29 PM
I just  ordered  high heat 14 guage 1000 f wire and conectors. Going to rewire. Put in heat shield and replace insulation  in back with some really  good insulation  for that heat.

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Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: Habanero Smoker on January 25, 2016, 02:00:55 AM
Quote from: harleyr warrior on January 24, 2016, 02:54:11 PM
When I installed  new element  I removed the back of the unit and saw some heat damage  to insulation........

Unfortunately that heat damage is normal wear.
(http://www.susanminor.org/users/Hab/Misc_Files/Additional_Element/_2Back_Wiring.jpg)
This is the back of my smoker prior to installing the second element. I believe I had it five years at this point.

That area on the back of the cabinet does get hot, but not hot enough that I can't hold my hand on it.
Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: harleyr warrior on January 25, 2016, 01:49:26 PM
Quote from: Habanero Smoker on January 25, 2016, 02:00:55 AM
Quote from: harleyr warrior on January 24, 2016, 02:54:11 PM
When I installed  new element  I removed the back of the unit and saw some heat damage  to insulation........

Unfortunately that heat damage is normal wear.
(http://www.susanminor.org/users/Hab/Misc_Files/Additional_Element/_2Back_Wiring.jpg)
This is the back of my smoker prior to installing the second element. I believe I had it five years at this point.

That area on the back of the cabinet does get hot, but not hot enough that I can't hold my hand on it.
You absolutely  right . The back of my unit looked about the same. I just know there is heat loss there. I ordered a ceramic  fiber blanket that is 1 inch thick 24×36. I believe  it should work nicely. Thought about the Roxul mineral wool . But there is only 1 inch clearance in back and it was 2 inch. Didn't  think it would compress and if it did I didn't  think it would be as effective.  Just my thought.  Thanks for your time and advice. I am learning  alot on here.

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Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: harleyr warrior on January 31, 2016, 09:26:51 AM
I have done the mods to the Bradley  that I had mentioned  before. The ceramic  insulation  is used work nicely.  After operating  smoker for 4hrs, back of smoker cool to the touch. I can reach temperatures of 300 degrees. I should  never need that much heat but smoker is definitely  capable of cooking  a smoke without help of an oven to finish or start a smoke. Smoker is only 3 months old. I know warranty is no good anymore. Smoker is ready to produce  some terrific  food . Time to drink a cold beer. Start a new smoke and enjoy the weekend.

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Title: Re: Hi, from Southern Indiana
Post by: harleyr warrior on February 01, 2016, 03:31:55 PM
Smoking a turkey breast. Turned smoker up all the way. Took a shower and went out was 230. Turned smorker knob to middle mark. Put breast in went to 200 and rose  to 220 stayed at 230 now for 3 hrs. Working very nicely.

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