Mods

[viper125]

What do you do to releve it? I was looking at a few double element mods but afraid they confued me. Could you recommend the easiest one. Well I also meant mounting both just figured it would have to be spaced differant.

[Habanero Smoker]

The hardest part about this modification is drilling the holes through the reflector, so it is advised that you order a backup reflector in case the original reflector gets destroyed. Some have made the holes in the reflector larger to make the installation easier.

If you are not installing the switch, the below link is the easiest to follow. All the instructions are on one page and not interrupted by other posts. The only difference from the OBS and the DBS (which is shown in the link) in the wiring diagram is the OBS has an additional wire on each end of the element that connects to the temperature controller.

Additional Element (Click on the pictures to enlarge.)

To remove the reflector you need to remove the 4 screws that go through the porcelain fittings that also hold the original element in place. Do this carefully, the screws and washers; especially those on the ends of the elements can be easily misplaced. As you need help just post a question, many of us have made this mod, and will be more than happy to help you through it.

[TedEbear]

My question is why cant you just take a wire from original 500 watt to another 500 watt. Place side by side and run wire from one end to same on other element on both ends.

That's how I have my dual element wired.  Just a short 3-4 inch loop of high temp wire on each end going from one element to the other.  No switch or anything special for the second element.  I do have a PID controller that I installed in the SG box.

Also, you asked about mounting it in the reflector.  That's how I did it and I followed the how-to link below (my wiring was slightly different).  The thin reflective material tends to tear easily when you try to drill large holes in it.  My advice is to use drill bits and make progressively larger holes until you get it to about 3/8".  Then take a cone shaped sanding bit and enlarge the holes the rest of the way.  You'll end up with them being about 9/16" but stop a few times along the way and check to see if the element fits the hole.  You can always make the hole larger but it is hard to make it smaller.   ;D

Additional Heating Element Modification

[GusRobin]

My question is why cant you just take a wire from original 500 watt to another 500 watt. Place side by side and run wire from one end to same on other element on both ends. Is there room to mount in same reflector? Can you move the original farther to the side to make room in deflector. Really dont see a reason for the switch for me. I have  the OBS and a pid. Just want it for faster recovery.

I have the OBSand PID. I installed the 2nd element and the switch. Twice I have had problems with either my pid or the temp controller. i was able tocontinue smoking by using the 2nd element since I installed it separate from the controller and had the separate on/off switch. so to me the minimal extra cost and time was well worth it.

[Habanero Smoker]

I agree with Gus. The switch gives you more options.

[viper125]

Ok Jab I get it. One question, I see a note taking slider out of pic. But to me it don't seem this mod does that.

[Habanero Smoker]

That mod doesn't show it. I take it that you are going to daisy chain the elements.

To by pass the temperature controller on the OBS, first take off the faceplate.

Disconnect the two female spade connectors from the terminals on the circuit board. My OBS was built in 2004 and all the wires that go to the circuit board are white, some of the newer models will have different color wires. One will be a single wire, and the other a double wire (one wire going to the indicator light).

Next, if you don't want to cut the connectors off, find or cut a piece of metal the same thickness and width of the post terminal. You can use that piece of metal to connect the two female spade connectors, then securely tape it up.

Or, you can cut the two connectors off, strip about 1/2 - 3/4 inch of insulation off each wire and use the appropriate size wire nut to secure all three wires. After securely connecting the wires, tape it up.

By connecting all three wires you complete the connection for the element, and maintain the function of the indicator light.

[TedEbear]

Ok Jab I get it. One question, I see a note taking slider out of pic. But to me it don't seem this mod does that.

The notes for the OBS mention taking the slider control out of the circuit.  The wiring diagram shows the two elements wired directly to the AC outlet on the back of the cabinet, so no slider temp control. That's not quite how I wired mine with two short loops of high temp wire going from the second element to the first and only one wire on each side extending out the back of the chamber.



Although I have my slider switch disconnected I still have two wires that go to the little red LED next to it.  It really wasn't needed for things to work but I figured it was there doing nothing and I sometimes like to see when the PID controller cycles the power on and off.

[Habanero Smoker]

TedEbear, the diagram you are showing is the diagram I drew up for the wiring of the DBS. I mention this because it does not show the additional wires that go from the original element to the OBS temperature controller. I should add a wiring diagram for the OBS that does not include the switch, and another one without the switch that bypasses the temperature controller. Also to clarify my earlier post, when I mentioned daisy chain, I meant that the second element would be wired like you did yours.

Viper could wire it that way, but the wiring, as shown, the indicator light will not work. He would still have to connect that into the wiring. The wiring suggestion I made for bypassing the temp controller would keep the indicator light wired up.