Need some suggestions - I have been thinking....

[GusRobin]

Which is usually dangerous.
I have bought a returned 6 rack cabinet (less SG). I plan to set up as follows: OBS SG hooked into homemade cold smoke box, connected to 6 rack cabinet, all run by a PID.
I am going to add a second element to the cabinet.

Currently my OBS set-up has dual elements. One (1) hooked up to the slider control, and the other to an on/off switch. Again, run by the dual PID. As my personal preference I like the flexibility of having the elements independent of each other in the event I only want to run 1 manually. This happened when my PID went out and I had to send it in for repair.  I used the second element to get up to temp, turned it off and controlled the temp with the slider control.

In addition I am going to add the hardware to hold 6 more racks and install the fan kit (go big or go home)

The 6 rack is from a digital set-up so it does not have a slider, nor adequate space at the bottom to add the switch (as far as I can tell, I haven't received it yet.)
So my plan is this:
1)   Buy an extra slider assembly
2)   Install a project box on the side of the cabinet that would include the slider mechanism hooked to 1 element; an on/off switch hooked to the other element.
3)   I would like to be able to also turn the fan on and off without have to unplug it all the time.  My thoughts were to include a switch in the project box that is connected to fan.
Since I don't have a clue how to do this, any suggestions? Things running through my mind are:
a)   Splice a cord with a plug at the end, the plug goes in the outlet, the other end is hooked to a toggle type switch. Splice the plug end of the fan cord and connect it to the switch.
The fan kit is the "standard " kit that is sold by Smokeand Stuff (I think that is the name but not sure since I bought the kit from someone on the forum that was going in a different smoker direction.)

Looking at all the different cords and switches, I am not sure what ratings (amps etc) that I should be looking for in the cords and switches. Any suggestions or links to the appropriate stuff.
The thought behind using the Bradley slider was that it is known as compatible with the element.Would I be just as good buying some type of rheostat , if so what should I look for (rating, etc) and any suggestions.

Well, that is the plan, I am open for suggestions ( aside from increasing my home owner's insurance).

I will also have to add on to my Bradley house. When I made it I allowed for dropping down the shelf to accommodate the height of the 6 rack. But with the permanent cold smoke set-up I am now using, the ducting from the cold box would be lower than the top of the cold box. So I need to expand upward. Luckily I built it with screws so it should be a matter of unscrewing some pieces and replacing with longer ones rather than a complete rebuild. I have 2 weeks off at Christmas so now I have a better project than cleaning put the garage.

Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[beefmann]

Gus sounds like you  have a good plan and project ahead of you..

fan, they are low draw item , between 1/2 and 1 amp .. nothing to worry about any 120 volt rated switch over 1 amp shall work. so yes you  can run the fan with a  switch.
( just a thought if you are running the heater straight to the pid controller you could use the same power as the heater to control the fan )
project box on the side of the cabinet is good looking, depending on how big the box is , is weather or not you  have to cut the puck shoot on the smoke generator

also if you are running a project box, why not use case mount receptacles for each heater and fan .

here is a  link that shows my pid controller with case mounted receptacles on the back hope  it will give you a  few ideas.

http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=30684.0

another question is are you  gonna be running both of your smokers together?  if you are and considering both would be at 1000 watts each of heat plus the fan / s you probably  be close to 1100 watts each so here is your amps per unit

1100 watts / 120 volts = 9.16 amps per unit .. 14 gage wire  will handle 13 to 15 amps 12 gage is preferred to each smoker and on separate circuits.

or do a dedicated 20 amp circuit that  would handle both of your  smokers a 120 volt , 20 amp circuit will give you  2400 watts total

[GusRobin]

( just a thought if you are running the heater straight to the pid controller you could use the same power as the heater to control the fan )

How would I do that?

project box on the side of the cabinet is good looking, depending on how big the box is , is weather or not you  have to cut the puck shoot on the smoke generator

The SG is hooked up to a cold smoke box, a duct runs from the box to the hole in the cabinet. So I have plenty of space on the side except for where the ducting goes into the cabinet.

also if you are running a project box, why not use case mount receptacles for each heater and fan .

I would like to do something like that but don't know where or what receptacles to buy.

here is a  link that shows my pid controller with case mounted receptacles on the back hope  it will give you a  few ideas.

That is what I would like to do but have no clue as to what gets hooked to what. Any chance if I send you a diagram of what I would like to do you can give me some direction as to what to buy and what to hook up where?

another question is are you  gonna be running both of your smokers together?  if you are and considering both would be at 1000 watts each of heat plus the fan / s you probably  be close to 1100 watts each so here is your amps per unit

1100 watts / 120 volts = 9.16 amps per unit .. 14 gage wire  will handle 13 to 15 amps 12 gage is preferred to each smoker and on separate circuits.

or do a dedicated 20 amp circuit that  would handle both of your  smokers a 120 volt , 20 amp circuit will give you  2400 watts total

I will retain the 4 rack obs cabinet and use something like the amazin smoker to cold smoke in it. Don't anticipate running both at the same time. But if I hear you correctly, I would need more that the current circuit I have to the outside deck if I was going to run both at the same time on the same outlet?

Thanks - I really appreciate the info.

[beefmann]

be happy to help you in any way i could, the receptacles i have used .. can be purchased at most any electronic store. along with a project box.

in my controller box ..  the pid is a single setting heat control .. not a ramp soak version with built in timer which turns the alarm  function  circuit into a relay so now i run this alarm to control my smoke generator, and the main relay to control the heater which can also be used to run  the fan...


here is the wiring diagram with out fuse and breaker,
 

green wire is your ground
white is your neutral
black is your  hot or power wire
the purple / pink is your control to the relay
the short red jumper on the controller is what turns the alarm into a relay on the pid
the other red wires are control wires for the relays

the pid / timer is a auber SWA-24X1 PID TIMER
the timer is a JSL- 71  though any timer  would work.. have mine programed for 99 hours and is to keep time of duration of smoke... hours : minutes
hope this helps

[tskeeter]

Gus, don't forget that the maximum operating load you should put on a circuit is 80% of the rated capacity.  So a 20 amp, 120 volt circuit would give you a rated capacity of 2,400 watts (20 amps X 120 volts) and an operating capacity of 1,920 watts (2,400 watts X 80%).