No power to smoker box

[fishaddict73]

Recently I went to go use my smoker and I am not getting any power to the main unit. No heat, no light, no nothing. The heat generator is still working fine. I tried plugging in the unit directly into the wall but still nothing. Can anyone help me please! Thank you.

[Habanero Smoker]

If you have the BTIS1;  the temperature adjustment is below the door. If there is a crack in the faceplate just above the temperature slider moisture can seep in and short out that circuit board. Other possibilities are that your inline fuse has blown. The other possibility is that your high temperature sensor tripped and did not reset. The third possibility is that your element is bad, but since the light of the faceplate is not working, then both the element and at least one of the other possibilities is also bad.

If you have a multimeter, you can test for continuity. You can get to the high temperature sensor, and inline fuse by removing the back of the cabinet. You can test the element by removing the wire from one end, and checking it's resistance. On the multimeter the Ohm reading should be 27 - 32 ohms.

[fishaddict]

There is no crack in the faceplate. The only thing that is missing is the actual little knob that goes on the slider. If the sensor tripped and did not reset itself is There a way of reseting it or does it need to be replaced? Thanks for the help.

[Habanero Smoker]

Sometimes they can be reset, but most of the time, if it doesn't reset after the cabinet has cooled down, it will permanently remain open.

With the smoker off, open the door and look inside the cabinet, on the left side about 1/4 of the way down from the top you will see a disc about the size of a quarter. That is the high temperature heat sensor. If you don't see it, you will need to remove some of the seasoning in that area. Once located, clean the sensor off, and apply an ice cube on it for a few minutes. Next turn the unit on and make sure the temperature is set to high, and see if the power indicator light comes on, and the elements work.

If this doesn't work it can still be the inline fuse. Hopefully this trick will work for you. There is no way to visually check the inline fuse to see if it is good. You will need a multimeter to test continuity. The other way, which I don't recommend unless you are knowledgeable of electricity, is to use a 14ga wire or larger to bypass the fuse, during the testing period only. If you bypass the fuse, and the element works, then you need a new fuse. Unhook the wire, and do not operate Bradley with the fuse bypass.

By chance, if the power indictor light is working but you are not getting heat, you know that the sensor was reset, and you have a bad element.