Dual probe or single probe auber PID

[TedEbear]

I found a "how-to" article here on the forums on doing the installation.  Basically, you're bypassing the slider temp controller and letting the PID do the work.  You need a PID, an SSR, a heat sink, a K-type TC and a few miscellaneous parts.  Auber sells most of everything you need.

Sounds like a lot of work but it wasn't all that difficult and compared to spending nearly $200 for a dual proble plug-n-play the cost is quite appealing.

[muebe]

Also Auberins has a PID that I use for my Traeger that has a built-in relay. The relay can handle up to 10amps at 120V. The 900w finned element uses 7.5 amps so this PID can handle the single, dual, or finned element setup. With this PID you would not need to buy the SSR. You would just need the thermocouple and PID.

Here is the PID...

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1

And here is the thermocouple...

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_3&products_id=101

The PID will be wired to the incoming power and then the element power wires will be wired directly to the relay on the PID. There is also a alarm relay that can handle 3amps that could be used to control the smoke generator power. You can set the alarm to turn on the smoke generator after the cabinet gets to a set temp.

Not having to by a SSR allows for a more simple installation and a cheaper out of pocket cost.

I have a the dual probe and am very happy with all the options I have with it. Otherwise I would have done this setup but having the ability to ramp up or down temps by IT or time is a nice feature. It is all about what your trying to do. If you just want stable temps with a clean installation then this is the way to go.

If you want plug n play installation and great control options with your Bradley then the dual probe is the way to go ;D

[TedEbear]

With this PID you would not need to buy the SSR. You would just need the thermocouple and PID.

With the way the PID cycles the power on/off thousands of times during a cook session to maintain a 2-3 degree temp fluctuation from the setpoint I have to wonder how long a mechanical relay would last versus an SSR. That's the reason I went the SSR route.

Anyway, here's the "how-to" I found that I pretty much followed when installing my PID in the SG box.  The instructions are based on using a project box but he has some pics near the end showing others who installed it in the SG.

PID Controller Installation

[muebe]

With this PID you would not need to buy the SSR. You would just need the thermocouple and PID.

With the way the PID cycles the power on/off thousands of times during a cook session to maintain a 2-3 degree temp fluctuation from the setpoint I have to wonder how long a mechanical relay would last versus an SSR. That's the reason I went the SSR route.

Anyway, here's the "how-to" I found that I pretty much followed when installing my PID in the SG box.  The instructions are based on using a project box but he has some pics near the end showing others who installed it in the SG.

PID Controller Installation

That is a good point Ted.

The one problem with SSR's is that the more load they have the more heat they generate. This excessive heat can shorten a SSR's lifespan. So being located inside a small housing like that on a hot summer day might cause some excessive wear on the SSR. Personally I would mount the SSR on the outside of the housing with a heatsink. Especially if you have dual or 900w element. Or install a DC computer fan in the housing to circulate air and keep the SSR cool.

I guess there are pros and cons to both SSR and relay setup.

$15 more dollars for a SSR and $10 for a heatsink is not that much more

[TedEbear]

Personally I would mount the SSR on the outside of the housing with a heatsink.

That's sort of what I did with my SSR in the SG box. I cut out a hole in the back for the heatsink to stick out to the outside air.  I think there are some similar pics of how someone else did his in that how-to article.  I salvaged a heatsink off some old PC components that someone was tossing away at work, so that part of it was a freebie.

I'll post a pic of my heatsink setup after I get home later today.

[muebe]

Ted one other thing to be aware of about a SSR is that they can and do fail in the closed position unlike a mechanical relay. This can be a bad situation with a runaway heating element. It is very important to mention that people do not remove or by-pass their temperature safety switch. If you do not have a safety switch in line with the SSR power and the SSR fails closed than that will not be a good situation at all :o

And the Bradley Auberins single and dual PID's use SSR relays so everyone keep that in mind ;)

[TedEbear]

Yes, I kept the high temp sensor in the circuit.  I removed the 10A inline fuse but I replaced it with a 15A fuse in the SG box since I have two 500W elements.  I also have my Maverick ET-732 set to sound an alarm if the cabinet temp reaches 250*F.  Here's a pic of the heatsink on the back of the SG box from earlier today:

[muebe]

Ted nice job with the heatsink. A small computer fan on it would work good ;D

[kcarmich]

I have opted for the 1800W dual probe version, which allows me to use it in more applications, including sous vide cooking since my smoker runs only when the salmon do.