heating element problem

flatheads4ever · September 11, 2010, 08:01:57 AM

The temperature in my OBS as measured by both the door reader and my Auber indicate that the internal temperature of the smoker is not getting above about 125 degrees. The main element does not glow even though the controller is set high. Possible solutions?

GusRobin · September 11, 2010, 08:05:53 AM

check all plugs. Unplug, replug and jiggle it until you are sure it is seated. If that doesn't work, plug the cabinent directly to the power outlet. That will tell if the problem is with the element or the connection to the SG. If that doesn't work move the temp controller slider a bit off of where you have it now. Some have experienced a dead spot.

flatheads4ever · September 11, 2010, 08:19:33 AM

No luck. I tried the direct connection and moving the control slider around, but the element never got heated.

GusRobin · September 11, 2010, 08:21:23 AM

that is the extent of my knowlegde. Others may be along. You can email Brian at Bradley or PM him. I think I saw some posts from him this morning so he may be hanging around the forum. If you find a solution please post.

ArnieM · September 11, 2010, 09:13:53 AM

Does the red light on the slider panel go on when you move the slider to the right?

KyNola · September 11, 2010, 12:28:35 PM

Remove the smoke generator from the tower. Turn the generator upside down. Remove the screws around the perimeter. DON'T remove the screw in the middle. Open the smoker generator. It opens clamshell style. No, it won't void your warranty. Check for loose connections there. Seems to have abeen a rash of those lately. If that doesn't solve the problem, put it back together and call Bryan at Bradley. They'll make it right.

Habanero Smoker · September 11, 2010, 01:02:03 PM

If the above suggestions do not work, and if you haven't done so already; set up the smoker without the Auber to see if the element will work. If so, then the problem is with the Auber or it's settings.

Brisket Lover · September 11, 2010, 04:10:37 PM

I'm having the same issue but for me it's the 3rd time. First time the wires came off the rear plug. I had to remove the back panel and that's how I found the problem. Second time the plastic that holds the slider bar developed a tiny crack in the center and from what I have read condensation runs out of the smoker into it and fries the board. I replaced the front part that includes the slider and controller and it all worked.

Again last week the orange light is off and no heat. The crack is there is there in the center again so I'm guessing it is the same problem.

Does anyone have a way to bypass the slider? I want to use a PID now anyways and am tired of the same thing breaking over and over again.

squirtthecat · September 11, 2010, 04:13:12 PM

Quote from: Brisket Lover on September 11, 2010, 04:10:37 PM
Does anyone have a way to bypass the slider? I want to use a PID now anyways and am tired of the same thing breaking over and over again.

There is a post on how to do this... I'll see if I can find it.

(I picked up a used Auber PID from GusRobin and love love love it)

Brisket Lover · September 11, 2010, 04:16:52 PM

Quote from: squirtthecat on September 11, 2010, 04:13:12 PM

There is a post on how to do this... I'll see if I can find it.

(I picked up a used Auber PID from GusRobin and love love love it)

Thanks I'm stuck on an iPod and surfing the forum is really hard.

ArnieM · September 11, 2010, 08:34:42 PM

I'm sure squirt can dig up the post on how to jumper out the slider. Keep the vent open so the moisture goes out of the top of the unit.

You'll need an additional power cord. The original cord goes into the SG as usual. The new one goes into the PID. The short cord that used to connect the SG to the tower now goes from the PID to the tower.

I've had three cracked faceplates but haven't run into your problem. Maybe just luck.

Habanero Smoker · September 12, 2010, 02:14:55 AM

In addition to good vent management, to insure that moisture does not run down the door it to raise the front end of the smoker a 1/4" higher then the back.

To by pass the temperature slider control, you need to remove the face plate, unplug the wires from the circuit board (leave the wires to the pilot light in place); and connect though wires together.

Here is a link to that discussion:
By passing the Temp. Controller

If you are sure your circuit board is no good, instead of cutting the connectors off the wires and using a wiring nut, you can break one of the terminal post off the circuit board and use that piece of metal to plug the two connector to one another. Wrap it with some electrical tape to ensure it will not come apart.

Brisket Lover · September 12, 2010, 05:13:15 AM

Thanks, I'm not sure that condensation got on the board. There isn't a sign that it happened and my vents are always open so I'm not sure. I just know it's cracked and that's what I read is a cause. I'll try the bypass and see if that fixes it.

Brisket Lover · September 12, 2010, 05:30:34 AM

Well that wasn't it so maybe it's my heating element. I did the bypass kept he light hooked up and still no heat or illumination from the light. I'll take out the element and back again and see if I missed something the first time. Maybe I'll look at the addi another element mind while I'm at it and get it prepped for a PID.

HawkeyeSmokes · September 12, 2010, 05:53:35 AM

Hi Brisket Lover,

With the tests you've done it sounds like your not getting power to the heating element. The light should be on once you bypassed the slider switch even if your element was burned out.

Try checking the high temp fuse and limit switch, one of those might be the problem.