PID or BBQ Guru Raptor and Competitor Pkg.

gpsmoker · January 29, 2006, 08:23:30 PM

Hmm....a shop press, a heavy walled steel pipe for a form, the right mixture of chips and binding...and a few tons of pressure....who knows?[:)]

When its brown it's cookin'. When its black it's done!

IKnowWood · February 02, 2006, 03:23:55 AM

TomG

I noticed the probe wire you used in your TS is different than what came with the 13010, also you used a different TS model.

Question. Is it possible to mount a plug to the 2-wire probe input to a plug-in that any oven/smoker probe can be plugged into? What type of plug is it?

twolone · February 02, 2006, 04:06:54 AM

Is that burnt-orange carpet? Is that a Longhorn cow chip?

Here is my offer...The first one to figure out the "Secret of Binding" or, SOB as we shall now call it, will win one all-you-can-eat excursion at the Salt Lick BBQ (near Austin, Texas), AND I will bring all the beer. Budweiser.

Of course you will have to come to Austin first. And warn me in advance. Anyway, I have a Pecan tree that needs felling and I would love to home-engineer some bisquettes. Everyone here knows it will be done eventually someday, so lets get it started! :)

I would guess it is some inert starch. Corn or rice. Something odorless of course. Maybe I am wrong. It is possible that aliens gave them the recipe. That is probably a whole 'nother web forum.

Longhorns & Cowboys. BBQ of Champions.

TomG · February 02, 2006, 05:02:23 PM

IKW, the controller in my picture is a Coldfusion PID. The probe is a type K thermocouple and to the best of my knowledge, plug in connectors are available for most thermocouples. But be aware that thermocouple wires and plugs are type specific. The most common, types K and J, require either K or J wire and plugs.

Twolone, wheat flour paste may work as a good binder and I'll bet minimal compression is required.

bubbagump · February 02, 2006, 09:40:54 PM

I believe the TS probe is a thermistor and not a thermocouple.

Bubbagump

IKnowWood · February 03, 2006, 03:39:44 PM

OK, my bad, that's why they are different.

Anyway, my TS 13010 is in and I got the box and some cords, plugs and all. I am putting it all together.

I also got a inline pole switch to try to install the puck advance motor switch like bubbagump has.

I will take pics when I am done.

owrstrich · February 03, 2006, 05:07:15 PM

its friday and i got the day off... but i have to work the next 16 consecutive days... so we i got 4 8lb bone in butts from winco foods...

i didnt slather and rubb at all just popped them in yesterday with 4 hours of apple... just got done pulling and mixing with balsamic vaulted vinegar and crushed red pepper...

it was a 20 hour smoke at approx 200 average... this is what i did to try to keep the hi temp from going way hi once the meat got to 170...

70 deg... using fan and duct for ventilation... vent open 1/4... slider all way right... i was going to turn down the slider but instead i turned the puck burner off... the effect was this...

200 set point...

when the ts cut out the temp didnt rise past the 200 set point... fell to 192 cut then back up to 200... it took 4 minutes to fall 8 deg and 6 mins to rise 8 deg... 8 deg swing over 10 minutes with meat 170... 196 avarage...

made change to 204 set point...

when the ts cut out the temp didnt rise past the 204 set point... fell to 196 cut then back up to 204... it took 4 minutes to fall 8 deg and 6 mins to rise 8 deg... 8 deg swing over 10 minutes with meat 170... 200 avarage...

prior to turning puck burner off... when the ts cut out the temp went past the set point by 1 to 6 deg... the hotter the meat the greater to overshoot... 1 deg overshoout at 120 internal 6 deg overshoot at 170 internal... the fall and rise back to set point is about the same...

so... turning down slider or turning off puck burner will lower the overshoot once the meat gets hot...

you gotta eat...

owrstrich

bubbagump · February 03, 2006, 09:26:24 PM

Makes perfect sense. Sounds like you got it figured out pretty well.

Thanks for the info [:)]

Bubbagump

bugboat · February 05, 2006, 04:37:22 AM

I would like to take a moment to thank everyone on the forum. I just rigged up a coldfusion PID to my smoker, and it works great!!. I would not have been able to do this if it where not for all of the great ideas and communication on this sight. The PID controlls the temperature very well, and makes a great product even better. Now I can "set it and forget it"
Tommorrow I'm smoking some fresh steelhead with Kummok's recipe. Should turn out great as usuall, but with a lot less work on the slide controll for the temp.

common sense isnt common

bubbagump · February 05, 2006, 11:44:59 AM

Hi bugboat,

Glad to hear everything is working great. Now it's time to relax and have a beer. [:D]

Bubbagump

gary_CO · February 06, 2006, 05:53:58 AM

Are the ColdFusion controllers hard to program? Thanks...

bubbagump · February 06, 2006, 11:56:26 AM

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by gary_CO
 Are the ColdFusion controllers hard to program? Thanks...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

From my experience none of the lower price PID's are hard to program. If you get one that has an auto tune feature there is nothing to it.

Bubbagump

TomG · February 07, 2006, 11:27:03 PM

Gary-CO take a look at http://www.bradleysmoker.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2968 . BubbaG's idea of using a SSR drive PID, for the same $, seems like a better choice than the Coldfusion.

gary_CO · February 07, 2006, 11:33:47 PM

Thanks TomG. I'm trying to follow all the PID threads. In between here and reading about the coffee machine mods people have made, I think I understand how these things work (a little bit, anyway).

bugboat · February 08, 2006, 03:04:18 AM

I got my Coldfusion PID on E-bay. Around 36.00 plus shipping. It did not come with programing instructions and I could not fiqure it out. After repeted E-mails I finally recieved the instructions. It is usiversal and can be used with any type thermocouple, celsuis or farenheit, and 3 different temp controll parameters, plus autotuning.
Auto tuning seems to controll the Bradley pretty good. But the other 3 parameters dont do too well. I still need to experiment more. The PID has a relay out up to 3 amps and also a SSR DC out. Once I got the instructions it was pretty easy to set up. Auto tuning is easy it just takes a little while for the unit to program itself. And this needs to be done every time you use it. It came with a type K thermocouple that does not seem to be very accurate. I have to offset the temperature setting 40 degrees at a 200 degree set point.
The higher the temp the more the offset. At 32 degrees the offset was negative 7 degrees. I will try a new thermocouple to see if this is the problem.

common sense isnt common