New Bradley Smoker

[KyNola]

Looks like those new brackets will make it easier for the guys who flip extra racks over to hold larger loads of jerky..  Or if you need an extra 1/2 inch or so of clearance.

You beat me to it Pat.  That was exactly what I was thinking.  An upper rail to set the flipped over rack on.

Nice touch Bradley. :)

[TedEbear]

If you ever add a 2ND elements, you need to add a 2ND of it too with the orange cord (fuse) and it means to drill a 2ND holes next to the first if or when you have a pid.

Are you talking about having to add a second high temp sensor when running two elements?  That is not necessary.  I'm running two elements on my OBS and have just the one original high temp sensor wired in series with both elements.  Absolutely no need for two sensors. 

I even removed the inline fuse and replaced it with one on the SG box where Bradley should have put it in the first place instead of having to remove 50 screws to check for a blown fuse.

[Mr Walleye]

If you ever add a 2ND elements, you need to add a 2ND of it too with the orange cord (fuse) and it means to drill a 2ND holes next to the first if or when you have a pid.

Are you talking about having to add a second high temp sensor when running two elements?  That is not necessary.  I'm running two elements on my OBS and have just the one original high temp sensor wired in series with both elements.  Absolutely no need for two sensors. 

I even removed the inline fuse and replaced it with one on the SG box where Bradley should have put it in the first place instead of having to remove 50 screws to check for a blown fuse.

Ted

The sensor in the back of the OBS (or the new one) that Toker is referring to is actually a thermal cut off. Basically if it reaches a certain temp if cuts power to the circuit until it cools down than it resets itself. The fuse that is mounted on the backside of the thermal cut off which you are referring to is not an electrical fuse, it's a thermal fuse. It acts as a secondary safety. If it reaches a certain temp it blows and cuts power to the circuit.

The main fuse in the smoke generator is the electrical fuse in case of a short in one of the circuits.

The reason Toker sets his up the way he does is because he wants the most safety devices he can have as he uses his indoors due to being physically unable to get outside to use it.

Mike

[Rad Rich]

Referring to the new temp dial. Its not just low Med and high is it? I would assume that it spins not clicks
And you increase or decrease the temp by how much you rotate the dial is that right? Also I'm wondering if the improved electronics is to try to hold a more steady temp. Still love my obs. I have made no mods except to put in a suncast cabinet. Every time I use it I like it more. Getting ready to do some jerky for the first time. Have some venison roasts in the freezer that need to be smoked up. Congrats on the smoker toker!

[Toker]

You are right the heat increase decrease depending how you turn the big knob but yes it's low medium high like your black one instead of sliding a slider back from left to right, it's a big clock wise knob. Don't think it change anything about steady temp but i always use my smokers with my pid now so who knows...

[TonyL222]

If you ever add a 2ND elements, you need to add a 2ND of it too with the orange cord (fuse) and it means to drill a 2ND holes next to the first if or when you have a pid.

Are you talking about having to add a second high temp sensor when running two elements?  That is not necessary.  I'm running two elements on my OBS and have just the one original high temp sensor wired in series with both elements.  Absolutely no need for two sensors. 

I even removed the inline fuse and replaced it with one on the SG box where Bradley should have put it in the first place instead of having to remove 50 screws to check for a blown fuse.

Ted

The sensor in the back of the OBS (or the new one) that Toker is referring to is actually a thermal cut off. Basically if it reaches a certain temp if cuts power to the circuit until it cools down than it resets itself. The fuse that is mounted on the backside of the thermal cut off which you are referring to is not an electrical fuse, it's a thermal fuse. It acts as a secondary safety. If it reaches a certain temp it blows and cuts power to the circuit.

The main fuse in the smoke generator is the electrical fuse in case of a short in one of the circuits.

The reason Toker sets his up the way he does is because he wants the most safety devices he can have as he uses his indoors due to being physically unable to get outside to use it.

Mike

I don't want to speak for Ted, but I believe he's saying that with his TedEBear method of installing dual elements in series there's no need for dual high temp senors or inline fuses.  If either one is triggered, both elements get shut down.  I used his method, but left the inline fuse in and have had no problems.  His method is probably the simplest way to install dual elements.  You just understand that if the circuit is broken, both elements are out of commission.  In case of exceeding high temp, that ain't a bad thing.  Some see that as a detriment.  To me, it was just a trade off for simplicity.