2nd Element, Fan and Burner Mod

[Orion]

So Orion, if I'm reading your posts correctly you've been running your smoker with 2 x 500w heating elements without a PID without any issues? As heli76 posted the bisquette runs off its on circuit, so it works without issues without a PID?

You are correct.
2 x 500 watt elements wired in parallel, no PID, no issues.

Cabinet heats up much faster and transfers heat to product being smoked faster. Particularly useful in climates such as mine in Edmonton and yours in Winterpeg. 

[Edward176]

Well Orion I finally bit the bullet and modified my Bradley smoker and installed a second 500w element. Very impressive the way it now heats up!! I set the temperature at 250°F and cabinet temperature was 41°F, and within 15 minutes the temperature was 250°F and holding. Recovery is now fast even with opening the door :). Thanks to all who wrote their experiences, suggestions and ideas, works like a charm. 

[ghosttown]

Interesting didn't know adding a second element didn't require a PID and the onboard controller board is capable of handling the current.

I went with the PID and 900 for myself however I may do the second element for my brother's smoker.

He has the digital one so would I simply just add a second element and run it parella with the first?

I assume the digital controller can handle the load. Do you have the non digital version? If so what happenes if you slide the slider all the way to high? What is the max temp can you go?

Did you mount the second element the same way as Orion?

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[Gafala]

I can only speak for my self, I added a the 900 watt heater to my 4 rack digital and also added a PID for better temp control then doing Sausages you need a tighter control of the temp. My temps stay to +- 2degs.

[Edward176]

Actually ghosttown I used Mr. Walleye's method of adding the second element in parallel. It just involved drilling 2 x 5/8" holes in the sides of reflector, pretty straight forward. I have the 6 rack digital Bradley.

[Edward176]

how true you are Gafala, a PID would be beneficial when smoking sausages, the temperature swing is bothersome.

[ghosttown]

Actually ghosttown I used Mr. Walleye's method of adding the second element in parallel. It just involved drilling 2 x 5/8" holes in the sides of reflector, pretty straight forward. I have the 6 rack digital Bradley.

Thanks, did he piggyback of the first element or run the wire to the back and tap in there? He mentioned he disable the sensor bypass because of the beeping noise, did you disable that as well?

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[heli76]

Actually ghosttown I used Mr. Walleye's method of adding the second element in parallel. It just involved drilling 2 x 5/8" holes in the sides of reflector, pretty straight forward. I have the 6 rack digital Bradley.

Please, show us some pictures. If possible also from wiring. How did you do the  isolation of the wiring contacts on the additional heating element?

[Edward176]

I just made up 2 x 6" 14 gauge jumper wires with round terminators at each end. I then removed the ceramic caps from the first element, ground slots in each end to accommodate the new jumper wire to run through. I then connected one end of each jumper from the existing element to my new element. That's it and works like a charm. The wiring and terminators are heat resistant and designed for stoves and areas with above normal heat. I ran the smoker at 250°F today for another 3 hours and it recovers quickly, even in a strong north wind with outside temperature of -4°C (25°F). No pictures, but if you check out Mr. Walleye's sight you'll see his pics, which I ran off of. The only difference was that Mr. Walleye ran his new wiring directly to the back and didn't just add a short Jumper.

If you go down the Bradley HOME page to Consumables and Accessories and then Accessories the first post is from Mr. Walleye and its called "Another Mod". That is where I found his pictures and info on this mod. all 6 pages.

[heli76]

I'm asking for electrical isolation of the wiring contacts on the second heating element. (Not the isolation against heat)

[Edward176]

heli76, I'm not an Electrician and don't understand what you are asking? The jumper wire ran from left side on original element to left side on new element, and right side to right side. That was all the wiring I did.

[heli76]

heli76, I'm not an Electrician and don't understand what you are asking? The jumper wire ran from left side on original element to left side on new element, and right side to right side. That was all the wiring I did.

So you can touch the left and right electrical connector of the second element? There you can get in touch of 110 or 240 volts when heating is on!
If I look on most pictures of mods, there is no protection against touching mains voltage on the second heating element.

[Edward176]

Ah, got you, no my connections are exposed. You would have to touch both ends at the same time, I guess I could slip on a rubberized sleeve, Cold shrink one end to avoid any chance of electrical shock.  High Temperature Resistant Kapton Tape is readable available and looks like it'll fit the bill. To be honest the thought never occurred to me, but now you have me thinking. Thanks

[heli76]

You are wrong! It's enough to touch the end with the phase voltage, to get in trouble.

[TedEbear]

I've had my second element wired the way Edward described for over 5 years and I've never been shocked.  The V-tray pretty much makes it hard to get to the exposed terminals unless you are really trying to do so.  I supposed I could give myself a third degree burn if I touched the heating element when it was glowing red, if I was really trying.