No power going to heating element...... Again...

[Sirsmokesalot]

Hello Everyone,

This is my first post, though I've owned this model of smoker for a few years now. The smoker worked fine the first year, but then the power indicator for the heating element would not turn on and the heating element wasn't heating up. I thought the problem was the heating element so I replaced it. However, upon turning it on again, still no power to the heating element.

Bummed out, I gave up for a year until a few weeks ago.  I called tech support and explained the situation. They said it was either the inline fuse or the temperature controller. I removed the back panel and checked out the fuse. It looked new, and did not look like it had blown. So I figured it must be the temperature controller. I ordered one, it arrived today and I replaced it. After turning it on, still no power. I'm frustrated and disappointed at this point. 

The wiring is connected properly and there are no severed wires anywhere. Why isn't any power going to the heater?  I didn't bring a multimeter home with me today, so I can't check for continuity on the components. I was really looking forward to smoking some half chickens this weekend, but I might have to make other plans. Does anyone have any other suggestions???

[cathouse willy]

bring home that meter, It's your friend and it will point you right to the fault.There is a fuse in the smoke gen box,check that. Try plugging the food box directly to the wall receptacle

[Sirsmokesalot]

Thanks for the reply.  I plugged it directly to the wall but there was still no power. The smoke generator works fine. I'm going to take the heating element to work tomorrow and check for continuity. Perhaps I received a defective one and didn't realize it.

[Toker]

There is also a fuse behind the tower (orange cord) that could be bad.  ;)

[Sirsmokesalot]

I did check that fuse and it looks brand new. Could it have blown and not changed color at all, still looking like new?

[Toker]

Perso, I would not judge by the color to say if it is ok or not. If you check your element with an ohm meter, it is supposed to read between 27-32 ohm. If your element is working good, then I would check the fuse.

[Habanero Smoker]

The in-line fuse is difficult to tell if it has blown, by visual inspection. The best way to test the fuse is to use a multi meter, and test for continuity. For the heating element you want to test the OHMs. If you don't have a multi meter, and you feel comfortable and are knowledgeable, you can bypass the fuse for testing purposes only.

With the cabinet unplugged, use a piece of 14ga or larger wire, and use it to bypass the inline fuse. Plug the cabinet in, and if the element works, you know you have a bad inline fuse. If it works do not operate the unit this way, replace the fuse. Once you verified it is the fuse, remove the bypass wire.

[Sirsmokesalot]

Okay, I just tested the heating element for resistance and got about 29 ohms.  I then tested the inline fuse but could not get a reading at all.  I'm assuming it must be the inline fuse.  All the other major components have been replaced up to this point.  Would you agree it's the inline fuse?

[TMB]

Okay, I just tested the heating element for resistance and got about 29 ohms.  I then tested the inline fuse but could not get a reading at all.  I'm assuming it must be the inline fuse.  All the other major components have been replaced up to this point.  Would you agree it's the inline fuse?

Yes. 

When you ever have an ele-problem you should always test the fuse or circuit breaker first then go from there

[Toker]

Exactly what I thought  ;)