PID Question

Mr Walleye · February 04, 2007, 12:19:33 PM

Hi Nodak

No I didn't do that. I thought from the other threads I read on it that the fused power source coming in would protect the PID. I did read the recommendation in the instructons with the PID though.

Anybody else? Is the second fuse required strictly to protect the PID?

Mike

Arcs_n_Sparks · February 04, 2007, 01:41:46 PM

Fusing is all about avoiding flames and other bad things.

A fuse will go when there is a fault, so already something not right has happened. A question of Mr. Walleye's setup would be along the lines of: if the PID fails and is not separately fused, will it do really bad things because the up-stream fuse will not protect the entire system? Since the apparent delta is from 1 amp (PID alone) to 10 amps (whole system), one can ask the odds the PID faults, draws five amps or so, doesn't challenge the fuse, and spends enough time sucking 600 watts to catch fire? This is why your vehicle has so many fuses (plus makes it easier to isolate power among devices).

Certainly you can put another black antenna on that nice white tube... :D

Arcs_n_Sparks

Mr Walleye · February 04, 2007, 01:49:08 PM

Quote from: Arcs_n_Sparks on February 04, 2007, 01:41:46 PM
Certainly you can put another black antenna on the that nice white tube... :D

;D ;D ;D

Hi Arcs
So, if for an example I was going to add an in-line 1 amp fuse (inside the nice white tube) what wire would I put it in based on the wiring diagram?

Would it the wire comming off of #10 on the PID?

Just a guess....
Mike

Arcs_n_Sparks · February 04, 2007, 05:11:14 PM

It would be in the hot feed to the PID, which according to your diagram I believe is #9. #10 looks like the neutral.

Arcs_n_Sparks

Mr Walleye · February 04, 2007, 05:19:32 PM

Yup, you're right the #10 is the neutral

Thanks Arcs

I notice that not many, if any, actually fuse the ID in this fashion.
Any idea why? Is it that low of risk that it really doesn't need protection?

Mike

Arcs_n_Sparks · February 04, 2007, 06:10:51 PM

The PID itself in this case is not really managing much power (in the sense of power flowing through it). The power control features are the SSR, heating element, and associated wiring. Those you worry about. Also, if the PID is UL approved, there are a number of standards it must adhere to that minimze the possibility of it burning up.

My home grown PID is UL rated; I used Unlimited Liquor in it's construction. :D :D :D

Arcs_n_Sparks

Mr Walleye · February 04, 2007, 06:17:24 PM

Quote from: Arcs_n_Sparks on February 04, 2007, 06:10:51 PM
My home grown PID is UL rated; I used Unlimited Liquor in it's construction. :D :D :D

Priceless!
;D ;D ;D

Mike

OriginalBitman · February 17, 2013, 09:30:42 PM

I know this is an old thread but I loved the discussion and the info was so helpful I just had to register and post a than you!

SmokinSignals · February 17, 2013, 10:04:32 PM

Mr. Walleye, Did this help with the DBS holding temps? I saw a thread about doing this sort of thing to the OBS but not the DBS until now. I would like to do this also if it worked, thanks for a reply.

Mr Walleye · February 18, 2013, 08:09:28 AM

Quote from: OriginalBitman on February 17, 2013, 09:30:42 PM
I know this is an old thread but I loved the discussion and the info was so helpful I just had to register and post a than you!

Hi OriginalBitman and welcome to the forum.

That's what makes this place so great. All the information that is freely shared is priceless. ;)

Mike

Mr Walleye · February 18, 2013, 08:17:35 AM

Quote from: SmokinSignals on February 17, 2013, 10:04:32 PM
Mr. Walleye, Did this help with the DBS holding temps? I saw a thread about doing this sort of thing to the OBS but not the DBS until now. I would like to do this also if it worked, thanks for a reply.

Hi SmokinSignals

There's no question a PID will hold temps much more accurate, usually within a degree or two on either side on your target. You can get plug & play PIDs from Auber now but at the time of this thread they weren't available.

There are some advantages to building your own such as it being less expensive and technically it can handle more wattage depending on the SSR you choose. Either way, build your own or buying a plug & play, it's certainly not a problem controlling a DBS with a PID.

Mike

SmokinSignals · February 18, 2013, 05:11:58 PM

Thanks Mike,
Did you happen to place a toggle switch to bypass the OEM setup so you could swap back if needed? I ordered all the listed stuff today from auber and picked up the extras from radioshack to build my own. I was going to look for an area to pull a leg off to bypass the system and place the PID in the loop. Also, I noticed you had alot of input on the fan mod, if you don`t mind me inquiring, where did you pull the power for the fan from? Thanks again.

Mr Walleye · February 18, 2013, 06:41:46 PM

Quote from: SmokinSignals on February 18, 2013, 05:11:58 PM
Thanks Mike,
Did you happen to place a toggle switch to bypass the OEM setup so you could swap back if needed? I ordered all the listed stuff today from auber and picked up the extras from radioshack to build my own. I was going to look for an area to pull a leg off to bypass the system and place the PID in the loop. Also, I noticed you had alot of input on the fan mod, if you don`t mind me inquiring, where did you pull the power for the fan from? Thanks again.

SmokinSignals

If you are referring to the toggle switch for the second element, no, I didn't put the toggle switch in but I would probably do it. The switch itself isn't worth much and it does give the option of being operational if you ever have a problem with the PID or if you simply want to use just one element. If you are referring to a toggle switch to switch between the PID controller and the DBS controller it really isn't needed. You would simply re-plug everything back in as you do now. The PID is really a stand along device plugged directly into a power outlet and the tower heating element is plugged into the PID instead of the smoke generator.

Basically what I did was run both the PID and the circulation fan off a heavy duty power bar. That way all I had to do was flip the switch on the power bar and everything was running.

Mike

SmokinSignals · February 18, 2013, 07:39:06 PM

Thanks for the heads up. So I am assuming that the "Oven" part of the DBS is not turned on from the DBS faceplate with the PID in place. The Oven is powered on and controlled by the PID solely. Then you can swap everything back to original and use the DBS interface if you desire. Is that correct?

Mr Walleye · February 19, 2013, 12:00:53 PM

Quote from: SmokinSignals on February 18, 2013, 07:39:06 PM
Thanks for the heads up. So I am assuming that the "Oven" part of the DBS is not turned on from the DBS faceplate with the PID in place. The Oven is powered on and controlled by the PID solely. Then you can swap everything back to original and use the DBS interface if you desire. Is that correct?

Your right on the money SmokinSignals! ;)

You will still have to have the small sensor wire plugged into the cabinet to make the Smoke Generator function.

Mike