PID HELP!!!

Mr Walleye · August 23, 2007, 02:09:32 PM

Fishin' ! ;) :D ;D

Tiny Tim · August 23, 2007, 02:24:17 PM

Quote from: Artmiester on August 23, 2007, 11:28:50 AM
Hey Tiny,

Thanks so much for your help! I've read all your posts on PIDs and your replies from Arcs. Unfortunately, I failed to write down the values already in the PIDs memory and screwed around with it before actually hooking it up and trying auto tune. Maybe you could pass them along if you still have them. Think my whole problem is setup values.
I'm reasonably sure they are wired correctly (I've lost count on how many times I checked them).
I believe your supposed to plug the PID directly into an AC wall outlet and the female end at the back of the tower so the generator's not involved on the DBS.
Experienced the same problem with the Thermocouples from Omega being reversed although they were per the diagram. Had the cheapies from Auber at first which worked OK. Both (K) type.
I've read about the 1amp fuse for the PID, do you think it's neccessary?
Never been able to bring up the temperature with the PID. The first few times I tried auto tuning I brought the temperature up from the generator and puck burner. Just before attempting auto tune I switched cords and watched the temp drop from 220F to 154F (temperature held by the puck burner). Each time I set up I had the thermocouple hanging in the center of the cabinet with a 2 brick load on the center with the puck burner going full time and temperature swings within 10F of 220F.
This A100 alternating with the 220F when you press the set button is a mystery. Also not sure wether the 220F needs reaffirmed or just set.
Anyway, a continuing thank you for all your help, Tim, and I eagerly await your next post.

I'll do the checking that I mentioned when I get home, but decided to tackle your question on the 1A fuse. If nothing else, it's cheap insurance.

Arcs_n_Sparks · August 23, 2007, 05:35:26 PM

Artmiester,

I do not have the Auber PID (mine is home-grown from scratch), so I cannot help you with set-up and parameters. If you are not getting voltage at A1/A2, then the PID is not calling for power.

You can always put 12 volts on A1/A2 to verify the relay is operating. Polarity is important.

Arcs_n_Sparks

Tiny Tim · August 24, 2007, 10:52:18 AM

Hey Art...just to let ya know, I got busy last night and didn't get a chance to get the defaults off of my PID for ya. I'll get it done for ya as soon as I can, and since I have Internet at home too, I'll just post it as I'm getting the info.

Sorry about that.

Artmiester · August 24, 2007, 10:58:38 AM

Thanks Arcs,
I made this reply yesterday but don't see it now.?? Tested the relays and they work fine.
Tiny Tim is sending the parameters... hope that wasn't lost too. I think I'll be back on track once I have it.
Thanks again!

Artmiester · August 24, 2007, 01:44:35 PM

Tiny, your latest post came in as I was thanking Arcs. No sweat, whenever you have time. Really appreciate it, and I eagerly await the list. 8) 8)

Tiny Tim · August 24, 2007, 04:37:56 PM

Okay, I gots some info for ya. Made myself stay outside and do it before I could come in to my comfy chair. The defaults are also listed in the manual, but here they are again. I even found out what the "A100" that you were speaking of means....by accident. I'll start with that one. When you press the "SET" button and release it, it toggles between "Axxx" and your set point to cook at, with the "Axxx" representing the percentage of output to make the heating element get to your setpoint.

Now for the parameter defaults.

ALM1...100
ALM2...50
Hy-1....9999
Hy-2....9999
Hy.......0.3
At.......3
I.........1000...(mine got the Autotune done and is now at 1583)
P.........500....(after Autotune is now 400)
d.........0.....(after Autotune is now 29)
Sn.......0....(says for "K" thermocouple in the manual, but I'm using a "K" and for some reason I have a 4 in this field which supposedly is for an "E" thermocouple)
dP.......0
P-SL....-100
P-SH...2500
Pb......0.0
OP-A..0
OUTL..0
OUTH..100
AL-P...17
COOL...10
Addr....1
bAud....4800...(mine says 9600 for some reason)
FILT....0
A-M....2
Lock....808
EP1.....nonE
EP2.....nonE
EP3.....nonE
EP4.....nonE
EP5.....nonE
EP6.....nonE
EP7.....nonE
EP8.....nonE

Hope this helps ya out.

Artmiester · August 24, 2007, 06:21:07 PM

Thanks so much, Tim. If I had written these down before I started fooling around wouldn't have to put you through all this. I'll put them to the test tomorrow with a couple of bricks and report back. There's got to be others out there that could really use this info. Hope they see it.
Apreciate it, brother! 8) ;D

Artmiester · August 25, 2007, 05:51:46 AM

Hey Tim, I noticed when setting up the PIDs to your list before attempting auto tune that the "t" (cycle rate) is missing and the default from the manual is (2) for an SSR. Just want to compare that to your setting. Also, on the "Addr" (communication address) line value of (1) for RS232 and RS485 model and on the "bAud" (communication baud rate) line value of (4800) for RS232 and RS485. Auber has sent SSR model RS1A40D25 on two seperate occasions when ordering from the link in robs project thread. Could this be the problem? What model do you have? I'm checking on the Auber site now and I'll get back.
Thanks again for the help. ??? ??? ;D

Tiny Tim · August 25, 2007, 07:01:09 AM

Quote from: Artmiester on August 25, 2007, 05:51:46 AM
Hey Tim, I noticed when setting up the PIDs to your list before attempting auto tune that the "t" (cycle rate) is missing and the default from the manual is (2) for an SSR. Just want to compare that to your setting. Also, on the "Addr" (communication address) line value of (1) for RS232 and RS485 model and on the "bAud" (communication baud rate) line value of (4800) for RS232 and RS485. Auber has sent SSR model RS1A40D25 on two seperate occasions when ordering from the link in robs project thread. Could this be the problem? What model do you have? I'm checking on the Auber site now and I'll get back.
Thanks again for the help. ??? ??? ;D

I'm not sure...back at work until noon, I'll try to remember to check it out when I get back home..would guess that mine is 2 on the "t", but I'll let ya know. My SSR is a 25 Amp...don't know the number, but it was bought from Auber, also from the link in Rob's directions.

Artmiester · August 25, 2007, 07:47:11 AM

Tim! Problem solved! :o When I was checking the SSRs out at Auber I started looking at the different PID models and noticed there were 2 seperate models. (#2352 for SSR output and #2342 for Relay output) I went back to my original order from Auber to check and the order was correct (2352) and then checked the wiring schem. on the PIDs and sure enough they were (2342)! They sent the wrong PIDs right from the get go. I'm contacting them now to make the exchange. Can't help feeling a little more than disgruntled but I guess you have to anylize every transaction these days for accuracy. Sorry to put you through all this for naught. I owe ya one (a very tall one). :-[ :-[ :-\

Arcs_n_Sparks · August 25, 2007, 08:35:23 AM

Quote from: Artmiester on August 15, 2007, 06:36:48 PM
Got home this afternoon and opened the boxes plugged them in and neither LED lights on the SSRs. Checked across L1 and TI and between A1 and A2 and everything seems OK there. I'm ordering them now...
Thanx, All
I'll keep ya posted...

Artmiester,

With the relay output unit, you would not have seen any voltage across A1/A2.....

Artmiester · August 26, 2007, 08:35:31 AM

Sorry Arcs,
When I saw your post for the check accross A1/A2 I had already closed and put them aside. Went back and looked at my notes for that value and saw 13.5v (the value I found on one of your posts) and thought that I had checked it. I mounted the PIDs with the labels facing away and using robs wiring diagram which is why I didn't see the model No. The boxes they came in had the right model No.s. I have the first pair on their way back to Auber now. Sorry to mislead you, this whole deal's been like a bad dream. :-[ :-[

Gizmo · August 26, 2007, 12:31:06 PM

Might I suggest to look at it as a learning opportunity. Had it worked out without a fuss, you wouldn't have the inimate knowledge or the values that will help you and others in the future.

Tiny Tim · August 26, 2007, 06:31:16 PM

Glad you have it figured out now, Art. I checked my note on the figures, and it looks like I have a 4 in the "t" area, even though I'm using the SSR instead of a relay. I didn't change it, so I guess they sent me a 2342 in a 2352 box. It works in my setup though. The good part about my error is I'm not confused about why it's showing I have an "E" thermocouple, as that field now would be a "0" meaning "K" thermocouple.