does anyone ever have this problem?
when I warmed up the OBS, inside a shop that was 74 degrees, i reached a temp of about 280 pretty quickly. I opened to put in meat, 2 chickens, 1 rack of ribs and 3 pieces of salmon. It dropped to 150 and never got up past 185 after 4 hours before I opened it to change water.
While my food seems to be cooking fine, and tastes great, everything I read on here says you guys cook at 215-235 or so. I didnt take meat directly from fridge to smoker, I let it warm up before putting it in. Used boiling water in pan at bottom. I cant turn the OBS any higher as its already maxed out.
The first 2 times I used it, I thought it wouldnt get any warmer because its so cold outside. This time it was 74-76 controlled temp the whole time.
How / where are you measuring the temperature?
If you are relying on the door thermometer, and you have food below the probe, the food will have a cooling effect and give you a false low reading.
I put the probe of my thermometer below the lowest rack of food.
You've put a lot in there. A couple of questions. What are you using to check the temp? The thermometer in the door or do you have a temp probe hanging in the cabinet? Location of probe will make a difference. How cold was the meat, chickens, ribs and salmon? Meat temp will keep the temp down. As the temp of meat rises, the temp of Bradley will go up.
Are you using a remote thermo to watch the cabinet temp
or the door thermo?
Also i have noticed with mine (4 rack OBS) if i place food near the door thermo
it will reflect the food temp. this is why i use the PID for watching temps.
Looks like FLB beat me to it :D
Bigmikey - I have noticed the same thing with my OBS. I use the PID to monitor the box temp and I hang it below the bottom rack at the front. I'm wondering if it would be more accurate near the center of the box, but when you have to rotate trays, it's a pain to deal with the probe, period. I caught myself hangine the probe over the door hinge to get it out of the way while I was re-racking jerky this weekend, and forgetting to put it back :o Good thing I was checking every hour. I think I'm going to have to add the second element and see how that works out.
Was your vent open or closed? Also, as others have said, it depends on where you are measuring the temp.
Im just going off a couple thermometers that I put in there and the door one also. They all read about the same. I had one on the bottom rack, one in the middle and I used one every now and then sticking in from the top. They were all pretty consistant with each other + or - 5 degrees, the one on bottom was usually 5 degrees warmer. My vent was wide open.
Stupid question but whats a PID?
No such a thing as a stupid question. A PID is an electeonic device that has one or two probes and can control the temp of the bradley, accept sequencing programs for setting different times, temps, etc. Also can control the smoke generator. Auber seems to be the most popular one around here. I'll look for there link, but someone will beat me to it ;D
Here is the link that soCal was referring to.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=151
If it got up to 280* quickly I am surprised to hear it will not reach a good temp with food inside, especially since you have it inside. I can do a butt and a brisket with ambient temp below 50 and still be cranking 225* easily. Something is weird there for sure.
that PID there talking about comes with real poor instructions. Unless your real teche it can be dificult to use.
Quote from: Case on January 12, 2011, 08:59:58 PM
that PID there talking about comes with real poor instructions. Unless your real teche it can be dificult to use.
Plus, that particular one is rather expensive. An Auber PID can be had for under $45.
Quote from: TedEbear on January 12, 2011, 09:27:31 PM
Quote from: Case on January 12, 2011, 08:59:58 PM
that PID there talking about comes with real poor instructions. Unless your real teche it can be dificult to use.
Plus, that particular one is rather expensive. An Auber PID can be had for under $45.
Show us how. I'll watch.
Quote from: classicrockgriller on January 12, 2011, 10:07:39 PMShow us how. I'll watch.
Sure thing: PID Controller for Bradley OBS (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?315-PID-Controller)
I used the same PID controller and SSR as the instructions, although I used a clip-on K-type thermocouple, also from Auber. I will also be running a 1A chamber air fan off the high alarm output of the PID. The alarm output has a 3A rating and I'll set it so that once the chamber temp gets to 100*F or higher the fan turns on and stays on until either the temp drops below 100*F or the power is turned off.
Mine is mounted inside the smoke generator box.
While the DIY auber pid is certainly more cost effective, you should probably include the cost of all the other materials needed to make it work for comparison sake.
Quote from: TedEbear on January 12, 2011, 09:27:31 PM
Quote from: Case on January 12, 2011, 08:59:58 PM
that PID there talking about comes with real poor instructions. Unless your real teche it can be dificult to use.
Plus, that particular one is rather expensive. An Auber PID can be had for under $45.
How were you venting from the heated shop? I installed mine in an unheated garage, and vented to the outside. My vent stack is about 28". I've found that, although everyone says to keep the vent wide open, with my set up, that's just too much. I get to good of a draw up the vent pipe. I generally leave my vent 1/2 open at most, even when doing a turkey or bird. The draw from the vent is too much if I go any further. I have no trouble cooking at 215 an hour after I put the food in and 225+ a couple hours later, even with 35 deg ambient temp. Maybe you are getting too much draw on the vent?
Quote from: MDM on January 13, 2011, 11:58:15 AM
How were you venting from the heated shop? I installed mine in an unheated garage, and vented to the outside. My vent stack is about 28". I've found that, although everyone says to keep the vent wide open, with my set up, that's just too much. I get to good of a draw up the vent pipe. I generally leave my vent 1/2 open at most, even when doing a turkey or bird. The draw from the vent is too much if I go any further. I have no trouble cooking at 215 an hour after I put the food in and 225+ a couple hours later, even with 35 deg ambient temp. Maybe you are getting too much draw on the vent?
Thats what I was going to say.
I have the same problem. I finaly installed another heat eliment. Very simple just linked it to the other one with solid 10ga wire and ends. Works great now fill it up and stayes 250* with the slider about 3/4 up.
I noticed today that I couldn't get my OBS up past about 160-165 with ambient about 50 degrees. I had the slider all the way to the right and the vent cracked about 1/8" open. Mind you the vent does not fit tightly and I'm not sure that 1/8 open is much different than closed as far as space for smoke to get out. If I want to get to 225 I think that I'm not going to make it, certainly not with a 50 degree ambient.
Do a lot of folks use two heating elements?
I have installed a second element, and it works great, but that was after about 5 years of using my Bradley with one element with great success. When I installed mine I took more precautions then mbauman (by the way welcome to the forum). Others have daisy chained, but use a PID to control the two elements.
The Bradley was designed for a 500 watt heating element, daisy chaining them together and using the temperature control switch as the only controller is not safe. If the high temperature sensor fails you are looking at a potential fire hazard, and I don't believe Bradley designed the circuit board for the switch they had in mind that it would be controlling up to 1000 watts.
Here are some useful links to adding a second element:
Additioan Heating Element (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?572-Additional-Heating-Element-Modification&p=910#post910)
Additional Element with On/Off Switch - OBS (http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?578-Additional-Heating-Element-for-OBS-with-On-Off-Control&p=917#post917)
Additional Temp. Sensor & In-Line Fuse (http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=16299.msg197771#msg197771)
Thanks Kindly for the info Habanero Smoker
I'll more than likely go with a PID as well as that seems to be the way to go with the OBS. It's a nice idea to be able to set it up to do so much of this and so much of that and so much of this and then shut down and wait for me to open the door. Cool as heck.
The PID that Kummox was or still is using is the Auber Instruments unit that is on sale at $146.00. Is this make an Industry Standard for such a critter. I know absolutely nothing about PID's, other than I can understand easily how they work.
Pat
I can't answer your question about the PID. I don't have one. I use the DigiQ II with the Power Raptor; they were made by BBQ Guru (http://www.thebbqguru.com/categories/BBQ-Guru-Controls-and-Packages/), but the DigiQ II has been replaced with the DigiQ DX. They are more expensive and are originally made to control pits; and they use a different algorithm other then the PID.
Quote from: Patsplace on February 28, 2011, 05:59:39 PM
The PID that Kummox was or still is using is the Auber Instruments unit that is on sale at $146.00. Is this make an Industry Standard for such a critter. I know absolutely nothing about PID's, other than I can understand easily how they work.
Auberins also sells some PID controllers that you have to install in a project box or, like some of us have, in the SG box. If you like to tinker and save some money over a plug-and-play unit you might look into that version. The one I have was a little under $45 plus $15 for a K-type thermocouple and $15 for a SSR. There are some 'how-to' articles around here that will guide you along.