Not getting warm enough

MDM · January 13, 2011, 11:58:15 AM

How were you venting from the heated shop? I installed mine in an unheated garage, and vented to the outside. My vent stack is about 28". I've found that, although everyone says to keep the vent wide open, with my set up, that's just too much. I get to good of a draw up the vent pipe. I generally leave my vent 1/2 open at most, even when doing a turkey or bird. The draw from the vent is too much if I go any further. I have no trouble cooking at 215 an hour after I put the food in and 225+ a couple hours later, even with 35 deg ambient temp. Maybe you are getting too much draw on the vent?

OU812 · January 13, 2011, 12:07:33 PM

Quote from: MDM on January 13, 2011, 11:58:15 AM
How were you venting from the heated shop? I installed mine in an unheated garage, and vented to the outside. My vent stack is about 28". I've found that, although everyone says to keep the vent wide open, with my set up, that's just too much. I get to good of a draw up the vent pipe. I generally leave my vent 1/2 open at most, even when doing a turkey or bird. The draw from the vent is too much if I go any further. I have no trouble cooking at 215 an hour after I put the food in and 225+ a couple hours later, even with 35 deg ambient temp. Maybe you are getting too much draw on the vent?

Thats what I was going to say.

mbauman · February 27, 2011, 01:43:39 PM

I have the same problem. I finaly installed another heat eliment. Very simple just linked it to the other one with solid 10ga wire and ends. Works great now fill it up and stayes 250* with the slider about 3/4 up.

Patsplace · February 27, 2011, 11:33:17 PM

I noticed today that I couldn't get my OBS up past about 160-165 with ambient about 50 degrees. I had the slider all the way to the right and the vent cracked about 1/8" open. Mind you the vent does not fit tightly and I'm not sure that 1/8 open is much different than closed as far as space for smoke to get out. If I want to get to 225 I think that I'm not going to make it, certainly not with a 50 degree ambient.

Do a lot of folks use two heating elements?

Habanero Smoker · February 28, 2011, 02:16:09 AM

I have installed a second element, and it works great, but that was after about 5 years of using my Bradley with one element with great success. When I installed mine I took more precautions then mbauman (by the way welcome to the forum). Others have daisy chained, but use a PID to control the two elements.

The Bradley was designed for a 500 watt heating element, daisy chaining them together and using the temperature control switch as the only controller is not safe. If the high temperature sensor fails you are looking at a potential fire hazard, and I don't believe Bradley designed the circuit board for the switch they had in mind that it would be controlling up to 1000 watts.

Here are some useful links to adding a second element:

Additioan Heating Element

Additional Element with On/Off Switch - OBS

Additional Temp. Sensor & In-Line Fuse

Patsplace · February 28, 2011, 05:59:39 PM

Thanks Kindly for the info Habanero Smoker
I'll more than likely go with a PID as well as that seems to be the way to go with the OBS. It's a nice idea to be able to set it up to do so much of this and so much of that and so much of this and then shut down and wait for me to open the door. Cool as heck.
The PID that Kummox was or still is using is the Auber Instruments unit that is on sale at $146.00. Is this make an Industry Standard for such a critter. I know absolutely nothing about PID's, other than I can understand easily how they work.

Pat

Habanero Smoker · March 01, 2011, 01:36:42 AM

I can't answer your question about the PID. I don't have one. I use the DigiQ II with the Power Raptor; they were made by BBQ Guru, but the DigiQ II has been replaced with the DigiQ DX. They are more expensive and are originally made to control pits; and they use a different algorithm other then the PID.

TedEbear · March 01, 2011, 05:11:58 AM

Quote from: Patsplace on February 28, 2011, 05:59:39 PM
The PID that Kummox was or still is using is the Auber Instruments unit that is on sale at $146.00. Is this make an Industry Standard for such a critter. I know absolutely nothing about PID's, other than I can understand easily how they work.

Auberins also sells some PID controllers that you have to install in a project box or, like some of us have, in the SG box. If you like to tinker and save some money over a plug-and-play unit you might look into that version. The one I have was a little under $45 plus $15 for a K-type thermocouple and $15 for a SSR. There are some 'how-to' articles around here that will guide you along.