Have any of you refinished a gun stock?
I have a Remington Sportsman 58 shotgun that has seen better days. The finish is beat up from use. My dog also found it under the bed and it now has some decent scratches. The dog is testing me!!!
I figured this would be a good time to try my hand at refinishing. I have refinished furniture and figured it can't be too big of a stretch. Do these links seem correct?
Is there any tips I should know?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
http://hunting.about.com/od/guns/a/aastockrefinish.htm (http://hunting.about.com/od/guns/a/aastockrefinish.htm)
http://www.outdoorlife.com/articles/jim-carmichel/2007/09/refinish-your-rifles-stock (http://www.outdoorlife.com/articles/jim-carmichel/2007/09/refinish-your-rifles-stock)
Yes I have done around 5-6 of them, I use the truoil and they turn out very nice I will see if I can find a picture of some of them and post it later
LTS
Yep, that looks like the process on the 2 that I have done. I actually enjoy doint it myself.
Good luck!
SD
I have only done one an old Remington model 788. Not much of a finish to speak of on the gun new. Used the Truoil and it came out great.
Just a few of my collection that have been finished to some degree
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a377/BluePress/familypicsguns002.jpg)
Nice lookin' shootin' irons, LTS.
I did a complete refinish from a kit a long time ago. Stock refinish, re-blue the barrel, etc...
Thanks for all the input. it should be a fun project.
Love the Smoke -
Those are pieces of art! If my shotgun looked that nice I don't know if I would have the heart to sit in the muck with it. Incredible looking guns!!
I built/ made these for hunting and they all have had at least 1500-2000 rounds through them at a minimum some probably 3-4 times that many. Have shot a lot of Prairie Dogs with these rifles
LTS
Beautiful guns LTS, I hope to have a collection that nice some day.
Those guns are even more amazing after knowing you built them yourself.
Is the stock on the bottom gun made from zebrawood?
I actually had a knife that's handles were made out of that same exact wood (the name escapes me now). Was made by a guy up in Idaho who builds custom knives. I had him take one of my Schrade knives and replace the old delrin handles with that wood. Unfortunately, it was lost in the fire :'(
I refinished one back in the late 70s. For the final finish sanding, I used steel wool and the actual finish was with hand rubbed linseed oil (if my memory even works back that far). It was an old old process, very labor intensive to get the right finish. I am sure the Truoil is a much faster product than the old linseed oil.
In the link with the instructions, the technique for raising dents is a good one. I use a steam iron on wood working. It does a great job of raising the dents (i.e. swelling the wood). As mentioned, it does raise the grain and you will need to sand afterward.
Quote from: Gizmo on February 09, 2009, 10:04:03 PM
I refinished one back in the late 70s. For the final finish sanding, I used steel wool and the actual finish was with hand rubbed linseed oil (if my memory even works back that far). It was an old old process, very labor intensive to get the right finish.
Would that be with a shellac and a little oil and called French Polishing?
Shakespeare
The Bard of Hot Aire
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Quote from: Smoking Duck on February 09, 2009, 08:35:31 PM
I actually had a knife that's handles were made out of that same exact wood (the name escapes me now). Was made by a guy up in Idaho who builds custom knives. I had him take one of my Schrade knives and replace the old delrin handles with that wood. Unfortunately, it was lost in the fire :'(
Diamondwood? I make my daughter pens from it.
The stocks all look to be laminated - more stability.
Shakespeare
The Bard of Hot Aire
Threadkiller Extraordiniare'
Quote from: love the smoke on February 09, 2009, 05:49:45 PM
I built/ made these for hunting and they all have had at least 1500-2000 rounds through them at a minimum some probably 3-4 times that many. Have shot a lot of Prairie Dogs with these rifles
LTS
What's next a Schuetzen or a 50-90 Sharps?
Shakespeare
The Bard of Hot Aire
Threadkiller extraordinaire'
Quote from: Caneyscud on February 10, 2009, 05:30:48 AM
Quote from: Gizmo on February 09, 2009, 10:04:03 PM
I refinished one back in the late 70s. For the final finish sanding, I used steel wool and the actual finish was with hand rubbed linseed oil (if my memory even works back that far). It was an old old process, very labor intensive to get the right finish.
Would that be with a shellac and a little oil and called French Polishing?
Shakespeare
The Bard of Hot Aire
Threadkiller Extraordinaire'
No, linseed the old fashioned way. It took a lot of rubbing and applications. If I remember correctly, there was some mineral spirits involved some where.
I think the linseed oil treatment goes back to the old military days. My dad is the one that told me what and how to finish it. I just didn't realize how much work it was going to be. Tung oil was another favorite finish at the time. Depended on what kind of finish you wanted and what kind of protection.
So did the linseed oil provide the most protection?
My guns get quite a bit of abuse from rain, muck, brush, etc.
Interesting, I've heard of some old timers using BLO cut with a little japan drier. But can't say I've heard with just linseed oil. Maybe it is just the part of the country I was raised in. Lots of German descendants did gunsmithing and I believe most used a french polish type of application. Easy to repair and a beautiful finish (although labor intensive) but not too partial to it as if you get too much shellac it tends to get sticky in the heat and dull where your skin contacts it a lot - possibly because of moisture or the skin oils. I use just BLO (rubbed on several coats) on different wood pieces I make, but it is not my favorite. Seems to get sticky and takes a while to dry. Danish oil which is a polymerized linseed oil seems to get harder and I use it more often.
Well, it has been way to many years so I went poking around on the internet and found a reference that kind of brings me back to the day. My dad was in WWII and it may have been where he learned to do to this and told me. Tung oil was also one of his suggestions.
http://www.jouster.com/Bulletin/TUNG.htm (http://www.jouster.com/Bulletin/TUNG.htm)
Gizmo,
Thanks for the link, I love the combination they gave. The beeswax has to give quite a bit of protection.
"It consists of a mixture of 1/3rd Linseed Oil, 1/3rd Turpentine (acting as a solvent), and 1/3rd Beeswax, gently melted together over something other than an open flame (an old-time radiator used to work well). When it is well melted, it should be stirred and left to congeal... It turns into a paste that makes a great (military style) finish that looks like it took a million years to apply."
Man, that brings back memories. My Grandfather (cabinetmaker all his life) used that mixture quite a bit. Pretty common. I have always wondered if using a harder wax than beeswax would work better. I think some of the polishing finishes found at the wood stores have to be something like that. They polish out real well. Lately on some bigger turnings I've been going with multiple applications of danish oil and finishing off with multiple applications of either Carnuba wax or wipe-on poly. I really like the deepness of the finish, but not too sure if practicle for a working gun.
Shakespeare
The Bard of Hot Aire
Threadkiller extraordinaire'
Quote from: love the smoke on February 09, 2009, 01:53:48 PM
Just a few of my collection that have been finished to some degree
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a377/BluePress/familypicsguns002.jpg)
LTS, those are beautiful.. Well done! 8)