Norbert's Jazzed Upped Smoker

[TomG]

Hi Bubbagump,  thanks for the informative perspective.  I started on this good to better effort because the slide on my stock BS rheostat had a 140-250 degree range in the last ¼" of its right sided excursion.  BS very kindly sent me a replacement, but before I had a chance to install it, I fell into the Accessory Forum's fun filled technical can of worms.  The last time I heard PID was the acronym for pelvic inflammatory disease and SSR was Social Security Recipient. I had so much fun putting together the Pakstat P & P controller I've decided to do the same with a Coldfusion PID and a
SSR in the box.  About the BS slide, because of its nonlinear temperature scaling and not knowing whether or not it would hold a steady temp at its max setting, I was thinking about jumping the switching legs to the rheostat and completely eliminating the rheostat variability by taking it out of the loop. Shouldn't using a PID give me all the control needed?  FYI there is a new PID being offered on eBay as Buy it Now for $32.99http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Digital-PID-Temperature-Control-Controller_W0QQitemZ7557779705QQcategoryZ50926QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem.  It doesn't come with a sensor but it has many programmable options like being able to specify C/F, sensor type, etc., and it's  $10-15 cheaper  than the Coldfusion controller.  Also, I think a hardware store purchased 9' air conditioner extension cord, cut in half, makes an easy I/O cord set for a P&P box.

[bubbagump]

Hi TomG,

Yes, you could bypass the rheostat all together, but I like the idea Car54 had about leaving it in place just in case there is a problem with your PID sometime down the road. All he has to do is just unplug his PID box and connect his BS back the way it was originally. I would just slide the rheostat all the way to the right rather than bypass it, and your PID should control things just fine.

Your idea of using a pre-made cord set is a good one. It is much better to purchase a cord with factory molded ends like you are thinking of, than making your own cord.


Bubbagump

[jb9]

I'm thinking of joining the "build your own temp controller" club, and I'm wondering what SSR you guys are using. Any resources for cheap ones that can handle enough current? I'm thinking of making a programmable one (1 hr at 220, 3 hrs at 180, that kind of thing).

Also, do you guys know of any sources for thermistors/thermocouples that are good for use in the BS? I'd like something that's all put together already, much like the "smoker temp" one that goes with my digital thermometer (a Maverick). I found a spare probe for a polder on Amazon, but it's the kind made to go into meat, not be exposed to air.

[bubbagump]

Hi jb9,

I purchased an SSR manufactured by Crydom - //www.crydom.com. You can find links to their distributors on there site. If you're not sure what you need or want just call their tech. support department, they are very helpful.

My thermocouple I purchased from Omega - //www.omega.com. Again, you can talk to tech. support and they are also very helpful. They will custom make any thermocouple to your specifications. I had them install a plug end on mine and I then purchased a thermocouple jack from them, which I installed in my smoker. That way I can just unplug the thermocouple from the jack when I'm done and store it away.



Bubbagump

[TomG]

Hi jb9,

I found everything I needed in one week on eBay.  3 new Crydom SSRs for $16.95, Coldfusions PID for $35 and various thermocouples for $4-7 each from Bill, [email protected].  He will apparently customize almost any thermocouple to your specs.  I didn't ask about thermistors.

Bubbagump,  I did a test run with the PID and a 20 A SSR as a P&P.  It took almost an hour for the controller to find and maintain the set temp(150), once there it held at +- 2 degrees.  The system in its current configuration cycles an unbelievable 2-3/min.  The PID stayed cool but the SSR heated up a little(probably 115-120 degrees). Are you going to use a SSR heatsink?

Tom

[TomG]

On second thought jb9, if you haven't started the project yet, you might want to wait and see how Oldman does with his plug and play version of the TS Digital Controller.  For $50 you get the controller and a sensor. Since it is rated at 18 Amps you don't need an extra SSR. Hard to beat at that price. All you would have to do is wire it with I/O power cords and put it in a box.

[Oldman]

Read this first.....
http://www.bradleysmoker.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2499

Olds

[car54]

Olds,
 I sent a email to you through the forum. I am wondering with all the filters and security on your side if you recieved it.

Brad