Norbert's Jazzed Upped Smoker

TomG · October 25, 2005, 01:34:18 AM

I'm winging this and I hope the experts chime in if I'm wrong. My impression is that the TS's relay is mechanical and that ideally it would last longer if the load across it's contacts was only the milliamps that are required to control the solid state(contactless) relay. When the latter is activated it would carry the amps necessary for the heating element load and apparently since there are no physical contacts that relay would last forever. So it's a two switch system, the relay in the controller activates the SSR which activates the heater. Sorry I haven't figured out how to post diagrams, but I'm sure some can help.

Oldman · October 25, 2005, 10:04:31 AM

Norbert,

What are you using for a heat sink on the relay? If you did use one did you install it under with the controller? How are you venting it? From the specs it looks like 185 F is its max operating temp. I'm not sure how hot it gets under the box.

Thanks!

Olds

car54 · October 25, 2005, 11:04:08 AM

Olds,
That is one reason why I have my PID in a stand alone box. I have an infrared thermometer and it gained about 4 derees above the ambient temp. Also since it is a stand alone unit, if any thing goes wrong with it I can still use the Bradley controls.

Brad

Norbert · October 25, 2005, 02:40:05 PM

Hi

You're right the TS use a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw Relay) it's an electromagnetic switch witch is a mechanical relays mainly use in automotive. The 16 amp can do the job but when I received it I liked it so mush that I didn't want to hurt it so, I installed a SCR. Oldmen, if you turn on your BS for a couple of hrs touch you slider cover or to be sure remove the two screws and insert a meat thermometer in a the crack you will see that the temp stays pretty cool. The box is insulated and the eat rise. My SCR is just beside the controller on the right with no heat sink. I think the plastic they use for that cover is shaped at 190°f so if the temp goes that high then the BS would be ruin.

Rick, I'm using both element, I found that the temp reach the desired level faster and since its there why not? If you install the bread maker element, take the back cover off and install it the same way it's in the bread maker. I simply drilled two holes the size of the element and a smaller one in the center for the screw, it doesn't mater if the element touch the smoker the top coat is insulated with ceramic from the electrical element inside. Screw the element from the back and don't forget the bracket in the right front. To put the back cover back on, you will have to cut an opening so that the two protruding wire don't touch any thing. I'm sure that you wont have any problems, it simple and easy to do for anybody with a little bit of skill and tools. A Dremel is crucial for the success of this project.

This is the description I got for my switch: The TS is a digital temperature switch. It is designed for many heating and cooling applications. The user is able to program 12 different parameters including set point, hysteresis (retardation of the switching ex: +- 5°F), cycle time, and ambient probe adjustment using the tactile front keypad. The unit features error or alarm messaging and password protection. 16 amp relays, temperature display in °F or °C, and 110 VAC, 230 VAC, or 12 VDC power supplies. The TS includes a thermistor with 5 ft cable, fitting clips for panel mounting, and instruction manual.

When I called the rep at Mod-Tronic at 1-800-794-5883 or (905)450-6322 he made it very easy for me. He explained all the options and I got it three weeks later.

If you are tired of eating pork jerky, turkey jerky, sausage jerky, fish jerky and every thing else jerky then you need higher temperature. The meat as to reach the right temperature before all the water evaporates from it. Three years ago I build a brick smoker and the food was pretty good but inconsistent. The down side was that I couldn't leave it for to long. With the setup that I have now, I can leave it all day and eat a fantastic meal for super. Set the temp, the timer and six wood pucks and there it is the best brisket.

Like we say in French: bonne bouf!

rgardjr · October 25, 2005, 09:57:16 PM

How does this look for a wiring diagram of sorts. I left off the temp probe on the TS Temp Switch. I think I'm on the right track here. Did I mess anything up?
Thanks-
Rick

INCORRECT DIAGRAM REMOVED TO AVOID CONFUSION

Oldman · October 25, 2005, 10:08:31 PM

Car 54,
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> if any thing goes wrong with it I can still use the Bradley controls.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Very good point~~! *Olds now is re-thinking*

Norbert<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> My SCR is just beside the controller on the right with no heat sink.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Ummm I ordered the one with the heat sink...

Olds

Norbert · October 25, 2005, 10:21:39 PM

Hi Rick

your diagram is wrong. I will send you the right one in a min!

Norbert

Oldman · October 25, 2005, 10:29:02 PM

Norbert,

E-mail it to me and I will post it for the group.

Old's E-mail Addy.

Olds

Norbert · October 25, 2005, 10:41:33 PM

It's in your mailbox Oldman. Thanks!

Norbert

TomG · October 26, 2005, 01:29:30 AM

Norbert, do all SSRs have SCRs, if not what is the advantage?

Oldman · October 26, 2005, 09:20:45 AM

Deleted see posting below.

Oldman · October 26, 2005, 10:59:52 AM

Deleted see posting below.

Norbert · October 26, 2005, 02:19:10 PM

Oldman I send you the new drawing.

I wish I could be there to help; I'm more of a visual person. Anyway supply, means the energy the controller will use to work. So when you plug your BS in the wall, the controller must receive power to start its process. The order of the wire doesn't really matter, its AC.

The load is the switching effect of the TS. It's like there is a little guy in the controller that will switch on or of depending on your program and what the probe is reading. The 8amp and 16amp should be the same but I can see that they show on the 8amp, 9 and 10 normally close so use 10 and 11. The order of the wire doesn't matter it's a switch. It's the same for the probe no order in the wire.

I would like to tank you for reminding me of the temperature effect on the SCR. I went back to my Malvino principles and yes it would be prudent to install the SCR on the outside of the BS. Mine is working great but I will move the SCR anyway.

Norbert

Oldman · October 26, 2005, 05:49:44 PM

Edited out for correction. See below posting for diagram.

rgardjr · October 26, 2005, 06:18:14 PM

Thanks for the diagram and all your help. Just waiting for parts to show up now. On to my next question about configuring the TS Temp Switch. Do you just set a set point (SP) at the temp you want, differential (r0) to 1, and set d0 to Ht for heating control. I wasn't sure if I needed to do anything with the Min stop time for load (c0) or continuous cycle time (c1). Once again Thanks to Norbert and Oldman for their help with this project.