Refinishing a gun stock

[Gizmo]

I refinished one back in the late 70s.  For the final finish sanding, I used steel wool and the actual finish was with hand rubbed linseed oil (if my memory even works back that far).  It was an old old process, very labor intensive to get the right finish. 

Would that be with a shellac and a little oil and called French Polishing?

Shakespeare
The Bard of Hot Aire
Threadkiller Extraordinaire'

No, linseed the old fashioned way.  It took a lot of rubbing and applications.  If I remember correctly, there was some mineral spirits involved some where.
I think the linseed oil treatment goes back to the old military days.  My dad is the one that told me what and how to finish it.  I just didn't realize how much work it was going to be.  Tung oil was another favorite finish at the time.  Depended on what kind of finish you wanted and what kind of protection.

[Buck36]

So did the linseed oil provide the most protection?

My guns get quite a bit of abuse from rain, muck, brush, etc.

[Caneyscud]

Interesting, I've heard of some old timers using BLO cut with a little japan drier.  But can't say I've heard with just linseed oil.  Maybe it is just the part of the country I was raised in.  Lots of German descendants did gunsmithing and I believe most used a french polish type of application.  Easy to repair and a beautiful finish (although labor intensive) but not too partial to it as if you get too much shellac it tends to get sticky in the heat and dull where your skin contacts it a lot - possibly because of moisture or the skin oils.  I use just BLO (rubbed on several coats) on different wood pieces I make, but it is not my favorite.  Seems to get sticky and takes a while to dry.  Danish oil which is a polymerized linseed oil seems to get harder and I use it more often. 

[Gizmo]

Well, it has been way to many years so I went poking around on the internet and found a reference that kind of brings me back to the day.  My dad was in WWII and it may have been where he learned to do to this and told me.  Tung oil was also one of his suggestions.

http://www.jouster.com/Bulletin/TUNG.htm

[Buck36]

Gizmo,

Thanks for the link, I love the combination they gave. The beeswax has to give quite a bit of protection.

"It consists of a mixture of 1/3rd Linseed Oil, 1/3rd Turpentine (acting as a solvent), and 1/3rd Beeswax, gently melted together over something other than an open flame (an old-time radiator used to work well). When it is well melted, it should be stirred and left to congeal... It turns into a paste that makes a great (military style) finish that looks like it took a million years to apply."

[Caneyscud]

Man, that brings back memories.  My Grandfather (cabinetmaker all his life) used that mixture quite a bit.  Pretty common.  I have always wondered if using a harder wax than beeswax would work better.  I think some of the polishing finishes found at the wood stores have to be something like that.  They polish out real well.  Lately on some bigger turnings I've been going with multiple applications of danish oil and finishing off with multiple applications of either Carnuba wax or wipe-on poly.  I really like the deepness of the finish, but not too sure if practicle for a working gun. 

Shakespeare
The Bard of Hot Aire
Threadkiller extraordinaire'

[cowgirl]

Just a few of my collection that have been finished to some degree

LTS, those are beautiful.. Well done!  8)