Yet another question about the smoke generator (RESOLVED!)

Smokeville · December 14, 2010, 06:15:45 AM

I've put off asking this but since I'm on a posting roll here I'll plunge right in...

Several months ago I was getting ready to smoke and removed the bubba pucks from the previous smoke. The one on the heating pad refused to budge without some force. It seems that the two sides of the pad were warped in and clamping it. I had never noticed this before. It wasn't hard to get the bubba out, but even a regular bisquette could not move through without getting caught.

When hot, no problem.

The DBS doesn't have this problem....

Thanks, Rich

SoCalBuilder · December 14, 2010, 11:58:08 AM

Now that is a strange one. I can't believe that the low temp of the SG would be enough distort the metal. The only problem I've had was when drippings from the v-tray coated the bubba and after letting it cool down, the puck was glued to the SG. Just popped it loose with a pocket knife.

Sailor · December 14, 2010, 04:44:46 PM

I have not seen this but I don't use a bubba puck. Metal contracts when cold and expands when hot. Wonder if the bubba puck expanded and kinda welded it self to the side? I don't have an answer but I bet Brian will have one for ya.

Bradley (Head Office) · December 14, 2010, 05:57:39 PM

Quote from: Smokeville on December 14, 2010, 06:15:45 AM
I've put off asking this but since I'm on a posting roll here I'll plunge right in...

Several months ago I was getting ready to smoke and removed the bubba pucks from the previous smoke. The one on the heating pad refused to budge without some force. It seems that the two sides of the pad were warped in and clamping it. I had never noticed this before. It wasn't hard to get the bubba out, but even a regular bisquette could not move through without getting caught.

When hot, no problem.

The DBS doesn't have this problem....

Thanks, Rich

Hi Rich

I have seen this once before with another customer.
His problem was caused from when he would clean the bisquette burner plate he was using a small grinding disc on a air grinder
and it removed to much metal over time making the plate to thin and it warped from the heat.
This was on a very old smoker though.

I would recommend getting a replacement burner on of these days that one will quit when you need it the most.

Brian.

OU812 · December 14, 2010, 07:24:12 PM

Quote from: Bradley (Head Office) on December 14, 2010, 05:57:39 PM
Quote from: Smokeville on December 14, 2010, 06:15:45 AM
I've put off asking this but since I'm on a posting roll here I'll plunge right in...

Several months ago I was getting ready to smoke and removed the bubba pucks from the previous smoke. The one on the heating pad refused to budge without some force. It seems that the two sides of the pad were warped in and clamping it. I had never noticed this before. It wasn't hard to get the bubba out, but even a regular bisquette could not move through without getting caught.

When hot, no problem.

The DBS doesn't have this problem....

Thanks, Rich

Hi Rich

I have seen this once before with another customer.
His problem was caused from when he would clean the bisquette burner plate he was using a small grinding disc on a air grinder
and it removed to much metal over time making the plate to thin and it warped from the heat.
This was on a very old smoker though.

I would recommend getting a replacement burner on of these days that one will quit when you need it the most.

Brian.

You are the best Brian.

And I mean that from the heart

Smokeville · December 14, 2010, 09:18:45 PM

Thanks, Brian, but I don't think that is the problem. All I've ever done is scrap off the part behind the heating plate. The plate itself I have scraped a bit, but build up there has ever been an issue.

I'd be happy to take a photo and post it.

Also, the heating plate dips a bit towards the water bowl, compared with when I bought the OBS and the DBS I also have. Sometimes it is hard to put the bowl under the heating plate...

Thanks, Rich

Bradley (Head Office) · December 15, 2010, 04:28:15 AM

Hi Rich

If you could post on here or send me a couple of pictures it might help.

If your bisquette slide dips down towards the bowl (when the burner is cold) gentle pull up on it and then re-tighten the two
mounting screws under it and see if that helps.

Brian.

Smokeville · December 15, 2010, 06:01:31 AM

Thanks, Brian.

I will get some photos as soon as I can. Both smokers are currently pre-heating for their big day smoking a turkey cut in half, two chickens, and 12 leg quarters......

Rich

Smokeville · December 18, 2010, 02:23:17 PM

Hi Brian;

Here are some photos.... the smoker is in the garage at 0C right now. The two screws you can see in the last photo are quite tight.

The water bowl makes contact with the bottom of the burner when I move it in and out to change the water. And if I do not push it far enough in. Could this cause a short that stops the pucks from advancing as I mentioned in another thread? It happened again yesterday. I manually advanced 3 pucks when I started the smoke but the 4th puck did not advance automatically.

Rich

Bradley (Head Office) · December 18, 2010, 08:39:18 PM

Hi Rich

I am at a loss to explain why that has warped so badly.It could have been a bad casting job
PM me your shipping info and serial number of your smoker and I will have a new burner sent out to you.

With regards to the bottom of the burner hitting the water bowl pull up on the bisquette burner (when cold ;D)
and tighten the two screws where the bisquette slide mounts to the generator
Its the two screws as seen in this picture.

Brian.

Smokeville · December 19, 2010, 12:55:23 PM

Brian, that is beyond first class service. I'll get the info off the back of the unit and send it to you.

Many thanks, Rich

Smokeville · January 09, 2011, 01:24:43 PM

My heat plate arrive and I finally got to try to take the old warped one out. Those screws were covered with carbon so after brushing them down with a BBQ brush I was ready to go. I immediately stripped one of the screws and the other one refused to move until I used some WD40 and bought a bigger better screwdriver.

Several quarts of WD40 later, my neighbour who is an aircraft mechanic managed to use a really good screwdriver and some brute torque and out the other screw came.

It took a bit to thread the electrical wire through the hole, but in the end my smoke generator is back in action. I also took the time to clean the smoker itself -- especially the rack supports and the vent -- and it all works pretty good.

Thanks to Brian and Bradley!

Rich

SoCalBuilder · January 09, 2011, 03:37:21 PM

Rich - Glad to hear it all worked out. Just curious as to how old the smoker is and how often do you use it? Sounds like it was quite the effort to remove the screws. I may want to exercise mine occasionally, just in case ???

Smokeville · January 10, 2011, 07:15:06 AM

Exercising the screws would be a great idea, I am certain. They were the only screws that were crusted over with carbon. All the others were clean, but very very tight (I tested a few). I used a wire bbq brush to clean the carbon off, but the screw slots were difficult to get the stuff out. My first attempt was with a screwdriver with too short a shaft, and they began to strip.

I use the OBS a lot. I bought it in March 2009 and used it maybe once a week, but since last summer until December I was smoking 4-5 times a week.

Rich

Case · January 12, 2011, 08:54:40 PM

use a little Never Siese on the screws as you put them in.