Ideal PID setup

Started by GBIceman, April 23, 2011, 07:22:45 AM

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GBIceman

I love my OBS but the Mrs doesn't like the way I watch it. I got the go ahead to get the PID. I am interested in the dual element Auber. What would be the ideal way to go? Is there a different brand? Where can you get the best price?

As Always this forum rocks!!!
Ice fishing rocks

If you are going to be stupid, you better be tough.

devo

I just got my duel probe Auber a couple of weeks ago and just love it.I also did the duel element mod and believe this really helps with smoking times and temps. The people from Auber are really nice to deal with and stand behind their product so for the money I don't think you can go wrong. I have this page book marked just for reference on setting it up.
http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=18346.0

devo

Something I forgot to mention was if you order the Auber they offer a wall mount temp probe. I got one of those and found it to be useless.
I ended up soldering a alligator clip to it and now I can put it any where in the smoker. Works a lot better that way for me.

TedEbear

#3
Quote from: GBIceman on April 23, 2011, 07:22:45 AM
I love my OBS but the Mrs doesn't like the way I watch it. I got the go ahead to get the PID. I am interested in the dual element Auber. What would be the ideal way to go? Is there a different brand? Where can you get the best price?

As Always this forum rocks!!!

I have an Auber PID controller but it is the DIY version that you install either in a project box or the smoke generator box.  If you enjoy tinkering then you might look at that.  The price is less than $45 for the PID and the total cost is less than 1/2 of the plug-n-play version they sell.  If you prefer just taking something out of the box and plugging it in then the other version you mentioned might be the better way for you.



I also bought their K-type thermocouple with the alligator clip on the end so I could clip it upside-down on a rack and make sort of a drip loop so grease would not run into it.





Here's a step-by-step procedure on installing the DIY PID controller if you decide to go that route:  PID Controller Install Instructions

And here is my finished project:






GusRobin

Couple of comments:
1) If you go with the Auber, definitely get the hanging probe, not the wall mount.
2) If you go Auber, get the dual probe version if the extra cost fits in your budget.
3) Ted - like your PID and thinking of doing it, but had a couple of questions,
--Is it single or dual probe?
---Does it control the smoke generator also.
Like the way it looks installed but like the above features of the Auber.
"It ain't worth missing someone from your past- there is a reason they didn't make it to your future."

"Life is tough, it is even tougher when you are stupid"

Don't curse the storm, learn to dance in the rain.

TedEbear

#5
Quote from: GusRobin on April 23, 2011, 10:04:33 AM
3) Ted - like your PID and thinking of doing it, but had a couple of questions,
--Is it single or dual probe?
---Does it control the smoke generator also.
Like the way it looks installed but like the above features of the Auber.

The internal PID controller is a single probe.  It monitors and controls the chamber temp only.  It does have some auxillary outputs that are designed to be used as a high temp alarm.  I am going to be using one of those to turn on/off a 45cfm chamber air circulation fan if I ever get around to drilling a hole and installing it.  The high alarm relay has a 4A capacity so it could be used to control the ~ 1A smoke generator, I suppose.  It could be set to turn on when the chamber reached a specific temp and turn back off when it dropped below that temp.


pensrock

Ted,
  Just a thought. I work with industrial temperature controllers every day and if it were me I would use the 'hi limit' contact to turn on/off a relay rather than a fan. Let the relay turn the fan on and off. I know the contacts are rated for 4 amps but the turning on and off is kind of hard on them. This way you are only turning on the relay coil. Hope this helps.  :)

GBIceman

Thank you all for the replies, so far I am going to go with the Auber duel probe and do the added heater element mod. Already have a spare element from yard and pool due to I already had an original heater failure. My question is about whether there is a wiring diagram and parts list available for the OBS. I have already seen the post about the mod, I was just wondering if there is a complete wiring/parts list available.

Thanks Steve
Ice fishing rocks

If you are going to be stupid, you better be tough.

GusRobin

This one lists the parts needed to mod the OBS:
http://www.susanminor.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?327-Additional-Heating-Element-Modification

This one lists the added parts if you want to add an on/off switch for the 2nd element
http://www.susanminor.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?330-Additional-Heating-Element-for-OBS-with-On-Off-Control

I would recommend adding the switch. While not necessary, it is cheap and easy to add since you have everything apart. I have used it a couple of times when I had problems with my PID.
"It ain't worth missing someone from your past- there is a reason they didn't make it to your future."

"Life is tough, it is even tougher when you are stupid"

Don't curse the storm, learn to dance in the rain.

beefmann

here is what i have done, i have a timer that works with a pid so i can cold smoke then cook  due to my 100 cfm blower.


http://forum.bradleysmoker.com/index.php?topic=17304.0

the timer will handle 12 amps at 120 volt and the pid 10 amps at 120 so together they will easily  handle a 1000 watts of heat

TedEbear

Quote from: pensrock on April 23, 2011, 11:28:03 AM
Ted,
  Just a thought. I work with industrial temperature controllers every day and if it were me I would use the 'hi limit' contact to turn on/off a relay rather than a fan. Let the relay turn the fan on and off. I know the contacts are rated for 4 amps but the turning on and off is kind of hard on them. This way you are only turning on the relay coil. Hope this helps.  :)

I have an SSR with a heatsink on the back of it to turn on/off the heating elements because of their constant on/off cycling.  With the fan I plan to set the high limit to 100*F, so once the chamber gets to that temp the fan turns on and remains on until the temp drops below that point.  There won't be any rapid on/off cycling and the internal relay in the PID should be okay.