Questions on 500 watt mod

[tskeeter]

I've done the 500 watt mod to my 6 rack BDS.  But I've got a couple of questions about whether I did it right.

First, the ceramic holder for the original heating element is in two pieces.  Is the relief cut that the wire for the add on heating element runs through supposed to be in the back of the piece of the heating element holder that is mounted on the wall of the BDS?  Or do you cut the relief in the ceramic cap piece of the holder and route the new wire along side the existing wire through the hole in the back piece of the healting element holder?

Second, on another web site I stumbled across a reference to changing one of the Auber PID settings when you add a second heating element.  Anyone know anything about that?

[mikecorn.1]

I've done the 500 watt mod to my 6 rack BDS.  But I've got a couple of questions about whether I did it right.

First, the ceramic holder for the original heating element is in two pieces.  Is the relief cut that the wire for the add on heating element runs through supposed to be in the back of the piece of the heating element holder that is mounted on the wall of the BDS?  Or do you cut the relief in the ceramic cap piece of the holder and route the new wire along side the existing wire through the hole in the back piece of the healting element holder?

Second, on another web site I stumbled across a reference to changing one of the Auber PID settings when you add a second heating element.  Anyone know anything about that?

When I did mine, I made the notch inside on on of the ceramic pieces with a dremmel tool.

You will have to run an auto tune for the PID after you are done with the mod. Simulate a load in the smoker with a couple of bricks and run the auto tune. I am at work and dont have access to the instructions for it. Hopefully someone will be by and post them.
EDIT:  ;D    This was sent to me from Muebe a while back. Its on the money for doing the auto tune.

You need to hold down the set button for about four seconds and then the display will change to this...



Then you will need to use the +\- buttons to change the right side display to 166 and then press set...





Once in the settings menu keep pressing the set button until you see this...




Change the right side number from 0 to 1 using the +\- button. Once you change it to 1 you can press the set button a few more times until you exit the settings menu. The display will flash while the auto-tune is on. Make sure you have your temp setting set on the first adjusted before starting the auto tune. And add a few bricks to simulate a load. When the display stops flashing then the auto-tune is done.

[tskeeter]

Thanks for the feedback, Mike.  I'm feeling like I've had a Homer Simpson moment.  Du-ho - run autotune.  Your suggestion to put a few bricks in the smoker while autotune is running makes good sense.  I hadn't thought of that and probably would have run autotune with the smoker empty.

I also went back and looked at Mr. Walleye's mod instructions.  His photos clearly show that the relief cut is in the end of the cap piece of the holder for the heating element and that the wire is fished along side the wire for the original heating element.

Just to share with others who are doing this mod, I found that a tungsten Dremel bit worked better to cut the relief notch than a plain steel bit.

My plan for the evening; go forth and Homer no more.

[mikecorn.1]

Thanks for the feedback, Mike.  I'm feeling like I've had a Homer Simpson moment.  Du-ho - run autotune.  Your suggestion to put a few bricks in the smoker while autotune is running makes good sense.  I hadn't thought of that and probably would have run autotune with the smoker empty.

I also went back and looked at Mr. Walleye's mod instructions.  His photos clearly show that the relief cut is in the end of the cap piece of the holder for the heating element and that the wire is fished along side the wire for the original heating element.

Just to share with others who are doing this mod, I found that a tungsten Dremel bit worked better to cut the relief notch than a plain steel bit.

My plan for the evening; go forth and Homer no more.

Ha! I had to make due with a stone bit :o took a while but I got it :).  The bit was nearly gone by the time I was done 8)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TedEbear]

I just cut a notch in one of the ceramic halves and ran a short 3-4 inch loop of wire from each end of one element to each end of the other.  Just one wire on each side extends out the back of the chamber on mine.

[STLstyle]

Just got my mod completed last weekend.  Ceramic cap for me too.  Can wait to load her up this weekend?  Slow pig funeral ahead!

[STLstyle]

Posted my first pic!  Now I need to learn to rotate!

[TedEbear]

Posted my first pic!  Now I need to learn to rotate!

Hover the cursor over the pic in Photobucket and click on Edit > Adjustment > Rotate. Also, you don't need to resize your pics before uploading them to Photobucket.  It does it for you automatically when you save it to your album.  It's hard to see the details in that small pic.  :)

[Cftsmoke]

I have had the 4 rack digital since Fall 2011 and have done quite a bit of smoking but am growing tired of the inability to heat up quickly, hold heat when putting meat in etc.  With cold weather coming on, my smoking may be coming to an end for the year.  I've read all the  500 watt mods and 900 watt upgrades and would love to have it done.  Unfortunately, I am completely unable to do it (laugh now)-I know my limitations.  Does anyone know of someone in the southern Maryland/ Washington dc/ Annapolis area who may be able to upgrade my heating unit? 

[Habanero Smoker]

I was just down in Laurel, MD Saturday.

It doesn't have to be a person who own a Bradley. If you have a friend who is a good fixer upper, that person should be able to make the modifications for you.

Sorry! Forgot to welcome you to the forum.