Pid questions.

[viper125]

Hi not sure if its these migraines or just old age! LOL! But reading the manual dont seem to make heads or tails of this single pid.

Trying to use this second pid to control a light bulb to control the heat in a home made incubator. want to hold at 99.5 - 100.5 if possible.
Believe it needs to stay in manual to hold the temp for a long period in stead of a timer. Also need to figure how to run the auto tune.
Figured some one here can give me the short clear version. At least I hope. Its the project singe probe pid you make your self.

[TedEbear]

Are you trying to use the built-in Auber PID, like the one in the pic below below, or what?  That's the one I have in my SG.  If you're using the stand-alone Auber with the single probe then I don't have any experience with those.

[viper125]

Yes that's the one! But it is build in a separate box with a single Probe instead of the smoker.

[TedEbear]

Okay, I figured you already downloaded the 8-page pdf instruction manual.  If not, it's here:  SYL-2352 Instruction Manual 

The Auber SYL-2352 uses an external SSR, unlike some of their other versions that have a built-in mechanical relay.  I prefer the SSR because of less chance of a relay sticking and failing.  Here's a link to their 25A SSR. Several of the Auber PIDs look like the one in my previous post so check the model number on yours.   

Everything you need on how to connect the PID controller is in the manual.  You hook your K-Type thermocouple to +4 and -5 (polarity is important here) terminals, wiring out to the SSR to 7 and 8, and the primary AC 120V power to 9 and 10.



I installed a panel mount connector for my TC.  Instead of wiring the TC directly to the controller the panel mount is wired to it and then the TC just plugs into it.



The wiring from the PID #7 and #8 goes to the control terminals on the SSR.  On the output terminals of the SSR one side is always +120V and the other goes to the + side of your light bulb. Preferably, this gets switched on whenever the PID controller is turned on. The neutral side of the light bulb comes directly from the primary power source. This may be getting too basic but I'm not sure where you're stuck.

Anyway, after you get it all wired up run the autotune with the setpoint temp already set at whatever you plan on running it at normally. To start the autotune press and hold the "SET" button for a few seconds until "ALM1" shows on the top display.  Tap the "SET" button 4-5 times until the display shows "At" (autotune).  Use the up/dn arrow buttons to change the value to "2". Leave it alone and in a few seconds the autotuning will begin.  It may take an hour or more so don't stop the process until it finishes on its own.

That's about as short and clear of a version I can make.   Let me know if you're still stuck and I'll try to help.   :)

 

[TedEbear]

So...did you get the autotune to work?

[viper125]

No not yet. I may not of been plain about the setup. Al the hard work is done. He built this in a project box all the wiring is done. All i need to do is place probe and plug in. But setting it to auto run and stuff is different then my plug and play one.
Basically need to know how to auto tune. which i believe you covered well.
Then how to set temp to 99 degrees and get it to remain there indefinitely.
Thank you for your help. Sorry about so slow getting back.

[TedEbear]

Then how to set temp to 99 degrees and get it to remain there indefinitely.

To do that just tap the up or dn arrow twice and you'll see a little green dot blinking at the bottom right corner of the setpoint temp display.  Then keep tapping either arrow until you get to the desired setpoint.  You can leave it in auto mode and it should maintain that temp within 1-2 degrees if you've done the autotune.

I guess maybe the wiring instructions could be useful for someone else who is installing a PID controller in their smoker.   :)