Second element question

[renoman]

I have a 4 rack digital and as the weather gets very cold here I am thinking I may need to do the second element mod. Everything I have read on these forums says you need the PID if you add the second element. Why????

[beefmann]

1000 watts of heat is quite a  bit to be  put onto the electronic slider control, I am under the  understanding  that the slider control has  went  out  soon after the mod has been done and reported by  several  that has  done the  mod, If it was me , I  would  run both elements together on the  PID at the  same time install a  fan to help with box  evening  out the box temps.

hope this  helps

[renoman]

1000 watts of heat is quite a  bit to be  put onto the electronic slider control, I am under the  understanding  that the slider control has  went  out  soon after the mod has been done and reported by  several  that has  done the  mod, If it was me , I  would  run both elements together on the  PID at the  same time install a  fan to help with box  evening  out the box temps.

hope this  helps

So are you saying that 1000 watts is going to burn up the electronics in the digital control panel?

[rexster]

I've been on here for quite some time now but don't remember anyone actually burning up the controls with a second element; I think it's an established fact that the factory controls are not designed to handle much more than 500 watts and people installing the second element or the 900w element just go ahead and get some kind of PID to control the extra wattage

[beefmann]

1000 watts of heat is quite a  bit to be  put onto the electronic slider control, I am under the  understanding  that the slider control has  went  out  soon after the mod has been done and reported by  several  that has  done the  mod, If it was me , I  would  run both elements together on the  PID at the  same time install a  fan to help with box  evening  out the box temps.

hope this  helps

So are you saying that 1000 watts is going to burn up the electronics in the digital control panel?

am saying that the bradly controls are not  designed to handle 1000 watts and that is why people have  went with a PID

[renoman]

1000 watts of heat is quite a  bit to be  put onto the electronic slider control, I am under the  understanding  that the slider control has  went  out  soon after the mod has been done and reported by  several  that has  done the  mod, If it was me , I  would  run both elements together on the  PID at the  same time install a  fan to help with box  evening  out the box temps.

hope this  helps

So are you saying that 1000 watts is going to burn up the electronics in the digital control panel?

am saying that the bradly controls are not  designed to handle 1000 watts and that is why people have  went with a PID

So where in the Bradley Digital is the weak link? The control panel must just be telling some sort of switch or relay in the 120V circuit to turn on and off. Is it that switch? For those who have tried it and ruined their Digital what exactly was ruined?

[beefmann]

most likely in the temp controller

[rexster]

Please read my Reply #3. I don't recollect ever seeing anyone do it and I've been on here since 2005. Please try it and let us know how it works out

[Gafala]

Please read my Reply #3. I don't recollect ever seeing anyone do it and I've been on here since 2005. Please try it and let us know how it works out

I would never do the 900 watt mod and then use the Bradley control that was designed for 500 watts that would be stupid. I have added a PID to my DBS4 and later this week I will be adding the 900 watt mod.

[renoman]

Please read my Reply #3. I don't recollect ever seeing anyone do it and I've been on here since 2005. Please try it and let us know how it works out

I would never do the 900 watt mod and then use the Bradley control that was designed for 500 watts that would be stupid. I have added a PID to my DBS4 and later this week I will be adding the 900 watt mod.

I am really trying to get my head around this. Just what in the smoker is designed for 500 watts but not 1000 watts? If no one has ever tried it why is everyone saying you have to do the PID mod as well. Why is it "an established fact that the factory controls are not designed to handle much more than 500 watts".  Not being a smart ass, just asking.

[Gafala]

Please read my Reply #3. I don't recollect ever seeing anyone do it and I've been on here since 2005. Please try it and let us know how it works out

I would never do the 900 watt mod and then use the Bradley control that was designed for 500 watts that would be stupid. I have added a PID to my DBS4 and later this week I will be adding the 900 watt mod.

I think it is safe to say the electronics for the heater are not able to handle the extra wattage and that the Bradley temp censer is of some concerns. By adding a PID you can program ramp up temps and times plus recover times are faster. Why take a chance and maybe destroy the controller.
I am really trying to get my head around this. Just what in the smoker is designed for 500 watts but not 1000 watts? If no one has ever tried it why is everyone saying you have to do the PID mod as well. Why is it "an established fact that the factory controls are not designed to handle much more than 500 watts".  Not being a smart ass, just asking.

[Alanfromwis]

  As far as I know, there is no published schematic of the digital controller, but the output controller must be a relay, probably a solid state that don't like overloads. That relay would likely wind up adding electronic smoke to the wood smoke, & that would not be good.
Alan

[LanduytG]

There is a very simple solution to this. Use and extra relay to control the heating element. The temperature control does not care if its 500 watts or 5000 watts. Its controlling a relay that controls the element. With a big enough relay you will not have any issues. I have the second element here just waiting till I have time to put it in and when I do a good SSR oe mechanical relay will be used. The only reason for the PID is to have tighter control of the temperature. Which is most cases does not matter. If you think it does just look at your oven in the kitchen. You can rest assured that it is not controlled very well either.

Greg

[renoman]

There is a very simple solution to this. Use and extra relay to control the heating element. The temperature control does not care if its 500 watts or 5000 watts. Its controlling a relay that controls the element. With a big enough relay you will not have any issues. I have the second element here just waiting till I have time to put it in and when I do a good SSR oe mechanical relay will be used. The only reason for the PID is to have tighter control of the temperature. Which is most cases does not matter. If you think it does just look at your oven in the kitchen. You can rest assured that it is not controlled very well either.

Greg

Thanks Greg, In my simple electronic mind this is what I thought. Last night while smoking some bacon I used my new Maverick thermometer to monitor the tower temp and I just can't believe how all over the map the temp is. Makes me wonder why Bradley went with a digital model at all. Temp on the Maverick wasn't even close to what the Bradley said it was. You would think that a tighter temp sensor would be a blessing for these smokers and not add much at all to the cost. I have only done 4 smokes so far and the temp extremes have not made a difference on the finished product so far as long as I keep a close watch on the IT of the meat. Let me know what you use for your relay. I will look to that with interest.

[KyNola]

Renoman, in your earlier posts you mentioned that you purchased your BDS less than a month ago.  If you slap a 1000 watt element in your new Bradley your 1 year warranty will be void.  That means if you fry the digital controls Bradley is under no obligation to replace them.  I would suggest you spend a little more time with your BDS before you risk your warranty.

That said, it's your smoker so drive on!