Dual Element Mod

[DaWiz]

I know there are instructions posted for doing the dual element mod but cannot find them.  Does anyone know the link to the mod instructions?

I have searched but cannot find them.

[Habanero Smoker]

The easiest way to find the instructions for the mods are on the recipe site. Please note the warning that a third party temperature controller should be used.

Additional Heating Element Modification

Additional Heating Element for OBS with On Off Control

When you do the mod, don't get confused over the coloring of the wires. Over the years Bradley has changed the color codes. The best thing to do is to follow the wiring and wire the second element the same way the original is wired.

You will see a significant improvement in performance. I used the stock Original Bradley for 5 years before I did my mod. Though you are still cooking low and slow, since the heat recovers so quickly, you will also notice a decrease in overall cooking times.

[TedEbear]

I know there are instructions posted for doing the dual element mod but cannot find them.  Does anyone know the link to the mod instructions?

If you do not want an additional on/off switch the mod is very simple.  I just made a second set of holes in the reflector and ran a short 3-4 inch loop of high temp wire from each end of the first element to the second one.  Also, I have an Auber PID controller, installed in the smoke generator, to control the temps.

Be very careful when you make the holes in the reflector.  The thin metal tears easy with the larger drill bits.  I used a cone shaped sanding bit to enlarge the hole after I drilled it out to about 3/8".  I think the final size is around 9/16".

[DaWiz]

Thanks for the link and additional information.  I have an Auber PID (actually have 2 of them - a single probe and a new dual probe 1800 watt unit).

[josbocc]

Ted E,

I saw your mod when I originally started thinking about doing this.  It looked a whole lot easier than trying to grind out ceramic bushings, and re-wiring the entire unit.  I am not opposed to doing the extra work..., but if yours has been working OK I think I'd like to just do the "loop" to the next element. 

I live in Northern NY, and cannot achieve adequate temps for about 5 months out of the year.  I don't think that I need an "On/Off" button for the second element, and my Auber PID is functioning fine, so I'm thinking of doing what you have done.

Can anyone tell me if there is a downside to doing this relatively simple upgrade?  I already have the second element mounted into the heat shield, and I'm ready to roll.  Thanks for any input.

Jeff

[GusRobin]

The benefit of the on off switch is if your PID goes out you can still cook with one element. Other than that i don't see a big difference. Others may have a different experience.

[josbocc]

Gus,

Just changed over (this morning) from a DBS6, to a DBS6 with an OBS smoke generator, so I don't think that I am going to have an issue.  The old generator was giving me fits, and after changing the microswitch, and trying every adjustment under the sun, I decided to go simple.  Figured that since I had the PID, I didn't need the digital generator.

I smoke enough (and hope to do more now that my bisquettes aren't being force-fed into the water bowl at an alarming rate), but I think if the PID craps out on me, I would be looking for a replacement as I love the way that it keeps the temps so close, and can be programmed so easily.

I was just concerned about the possibility of an amperage drop or some other electrical issue that I am nowhere near close to being able to diagnose.  Sounds like the "loop" to the new element will do the trick for me.

Thanks much for your input!!!

Jeff

[Habanero Smoker]

The On/Off switch is optional, as stated in the instructions before you get to the directions. My temperature controller, is not always hooked up to my smoker. There are still many times I can smoke/cook something without the second element or having a temperature controller hooked up. So by turning off the second element I can run the Bradley as originally stocked. This saves me the bother of hooking up a temperature controller, when I don't need it.

[TedEbear]

I was just concerned about the possibility of an amperage drop or some other electrical issue that I am nowhere near close to being able to diagnose.  Sounds like the "loop" to the new element will do the trick for me.

The wires inside the cord that goes between the SG and the tower are 18ga, so you wouldn't be overloading anything by doing a couple of 14 or 16ga high temp wire loops between each element.  A chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

I didn't do the on/off switch because I figured more can go wrong with the smoker than a PID controller failing.  For instance, if my SG were to fail I don't have a backup for it.  I just didn't see the need for an extra switch.

[standles]

Notice the warnings on drilling that thin metal.   I sliced my thumb open and ended up with 9 stitches from the nice lady doctor at the ER.   I still do not hve full feeling back in it after a month.

It sure wasn't worth that 5 minutes saved time to clamp it down or between two pcs of board.


Steven

[josbocc]

Standles,

You couldn't be any more correct.  I went through one reflector before I got the holes done.  I'm sure that it did a job on your skin.  Here's hoping you are OK in no time.

Jeff

[Bdogggut34]

Ted E,

I saw your mod when I originally started thinking about doing this.  It looked a whole lot easier than trying to grind out ceramic bushings, and re-wiring the entire unit.  I am not opposed to doing the extra work..., but if yours has been working OK I think I'd like to just do the "loop" to the next element. 

Jeff

I apologize if this is in front of my face....but all I've seen is the instructions where you grind the bushings.....where is "Ted E loop method" instructions? I'm not sure how the connections are being made.

[TedEbear]

where is "Ted E loop method" instructions? I'm not sure how the connections are being made.

I didn't write down any "how-to" instructions on it.  The loop is just a 3-4 inch piece of high temp wire that connects each end of the first element to each end of the second element.  I used ring terminals with the plastic insulator removed for the connection point.

[tskeeter]

Considering how the original heating element is held in place, I believe that TedEbear's loop wiring method will also require that you notch the cap piece of the ceramic holder for the heating element.

The easiest way I have found to cut the notch is with a carbide grit coated rod saw.  The type that gets held in a hacksaw frame.  They are available at Home Depot.  As I recall, not too expensive.  And cut a couple of notches in less than 10 minutes.

When I used a Dremel, it took me over half an hour to get the notches cut.

[josbocc]

Hey Everyone,

My mod is done  8).  I used Ted-E's method, and had to grind two grooves in the smaller of the two ceramic bushings in order to accommodate the "loop" of wire between the original element and the extra one.  I used a dremel tool with an abrasive bit, and had each groove cut in less than 10 minutes.  It all went back together relatively easily.

I hooked up my Auber PID, and within 15 minutes, I was able to hit 225F.  I don't think I've ever hit that temp before, even in the middle of the summer. 

Jeff is a happy smoker!!!  Can't wait to put the Thanksgiving bird in this week.

Thanks to everyone for the help, support, and motivation.

Jeff